Monday, September 09, 2013 - 09:30 pm, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
Hey guys so I've been getting the error 52 message for a long time now. I replaced the front knock sensor with another one and still getting the error.
So I thought the wiring must be the issue, so made a new knock sensor wire (as per the guides floating around on the net) I cut the standard ks wire a few inches from the ecu (the KNK1 port) and joined the new wire to it. I grounded the sheathing near the ecu. Then connected the new wire to my old knock sensor with a tight spade fitting and sat it loose inside the car to test if the new wiring stopped the error popping up (before going to the hassle of fitting it up to the sensor on the engine). But no good, still setting of the error 52 message within 10 seconds of driving.
Next thought was maybe the sensor itself needs to be grounded, so ran a wire to it and to a ground point, still no good, triggering the error within a few seconds.
I don't know where to go from here, if it's not the sensor and it's not the wiring... Can anyone give me any other suggestions as to what the hell the problem could be? I've had enough of driving around in granny mode
Monday, September 30, 2013 - 11:20 am, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
Ok I borrowed Kurt's ecu, and thought the problem was solved, I managed to get about 1.5hrs of driving with no error. But then the error decided to appear again. So devastated!
It seems odd that changing the ecu would change the behaviour of when this error appears, when the ecu itself cant be the culprit. The error would practically always occur with 10min of driving before I swapped Kurt's one in.
Monday, September 30, 2013 - 06:16 pm, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
I'm not sure if his is capped or not, but he was not getting any errors with this ecu in his car.
I didn't pull the fuse initially because I thought pulling the plug connectors from the ecu when I swapped his in had the same effect, correct me if I'm wrong about that, but either way it was definitely not in limp mode when I drove it. And secondly the engine light did not come on for a combined 1.5hrs of driving over 2 days. Whether in limp mode or not, the engine light goes away every time the car is switched off, and does not appear until the next time the fault triggers it (but of course limp mode remains until power to the ecu is disconnected). And I have since pulled the fuse after getting the errors again.
Monday, September 30, 2013 - 09:49 pm, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
I'm wondering if my method of testing the new knock sensor wiring by connecting it up to my old sensor and having it earthed but just sitting on the passenger seat rather than screwed into the block is somehow flawed? It seems like it should work on paper, am I missing something?
Because when I had it hooked up this way, the error would appear basically as soon as I start driving and the revs reach about 2-3k. The same as if no sensor was hooked up at all...
But once I connect back the old wiring and sensor which is fitted in the engine, the error usually takes substantially longer to occur...
Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 08:19 am, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
My engine runs great. No problems that I'm aware of. I am not sure about the shim clearances sorry. There is no tappet noise though.
But I have heard that the error 52 code only appears when there is an actual problem with the connection between the knock sensor and ecu. Engine knock itself will not trigger the code... Is that correct?
Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 03:09 pm, by: Kurt Atzmuller(Kurt)
Probably was used 6-12 months ago, but had been out prior for 2 years as i had a wolf fitted.
But it was fine in my car after being out for 2 years with only the tail light warning coming on for me because i have those tail lights fitted that make them flash faster.
Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 08:32 am, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
I have not tried the check in the video because I don't think it is relevant to my scenario. If I had a bad knock sensor which triggers the error code, you would expect the error code should trigger as soon as I start driving (the same as when the sensor was not connected at all), but instead my code appears at completely random times. And secondly I have swapped in a second knock sensor, with exactly the same problem occurring...
Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 08:39 am, by: Michael Sinay(Mikey)
Ok I spoke to an auto electrician who said the knock sensor needs to be screwed into the block for it to become active, something about the piezo crystal...
That explains why my method of testing it in the cabin kept spitting out the error code straight away. I new there had to be some reason.
Previous
