Monday, January 26, 2015 - 12:21 am, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Hi everyone. I have a very frustrating problem with my 92 tt Two days ago I went to go out and my soarer would not crank but the night before i was driving around fine. I have all electrics working, dash lights ect. First thing I did was check the battery.. Results where 100% health. Checked all engine bay fuses and footwell fuses and they where all good, Pulled the starter and suspected it was the problem and went and bought a known good one off rosta pesina's supra. I bolted it in tonight resulting in the same result, completely dead.. I have had a friend who is a ambulance tech test the park brake switch and that has checked out fine too but now its locking in park even though the nylon rods under the shifter are all connected still (can manually press the park lock down to move still) I have tested the trigger wire to the starter and that reads 12v upon attempting to crank, 12v wire to the starter also read 12v. Also crawled back under the car to check all the visible plugs on the gearbox and all fine too. What do i do? I've had my car off the road now for a few days and I need it as its my daily. Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated. Cheers josh
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 01:52 am, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Scott, yes everything is operational. Dash lights headlights ect Peter. The park brake switch tested fine and appears to be working as the fuel pump primes only in neutral and park Will running diagnostics come up with anything?
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 06:43 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
if you are getting 12v to the solenoid and also to the actual starter, you have a bad earth. Clean the battery connections. Also about 200mm back from the neg batt terminal, it bolts/earths to the car chassis. Unbolt it and clean the area with emery paper.
turn the lights on and try to crank the car over. If the lights dim, that also points to a bad earth
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 12:20 pm, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Thankyou for the replies guys. Tom and scott I will go out shortly and have another crack Brett the starter relay has tested fine. Also swapped it with a spare from a spare fuse box I had
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 01:25 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
Josh,
To eliminate voltage drop etc, run a descent sized jumper lead down to the trigger wire on the solenoid either straight from the battery or even better from a good & tested jumper battery & earth the jumper battery to the engine too & even better again if you can get a jumper lead onto the starter motor main wire & then run a lead off that to the trigger wire & if it doesn't work its another dead starter motor
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 01:31 pm, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Thanks mate. Currently tinkering so Ill give that a shot. I can confirm the starter relay is clicking when the key is turned so I think its safe to say I can rule out anything inside the car
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 02:06 pm, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Tom the battery is 100%. Mate that's a ambo tech has a little machine that tests cca loads ect and came out better than what it was rated for. Think I'm on to something guys! Just tested a new constant 12v to starter and it engages and turns when hooked up! Think I've found the problem. I'll report back this arvo with hopefully a running soarer
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 03:39 pm, by: Robert Day(Lexsmaz)
If its cranking jumping off the car battery it shows the engine earths etc are ok, but still could be battery connections or voltage drop somewhere, the easiest way to test battery connections is to put a volt / multi meter on the voltage setting & put one terminal of the volt meter directly on the post of the battery & put the other lead on the outside of the same battery post but on the post terminal clamp & obviously onto a metal part of the battery terminal clamp & get someone to crank the car & if the voltage stays at basically zero volts it shows the battery connections are good, if the voltage jumps up to around 12 volts its a bad connection at the battery on that terminal & then repeat the procedure the same way on the other terminal so basically you have tested the negative connector & then test the positive terminals ..
Monday, January 26, 2015 - 04:49 pm, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
I swear i replied but the post isn't here. Thankyou robert for your replies and a big thankyou to everyone, this is why this forum is awesome! Robert i jumped the starter off the battery in the car. I soldered a new wire on for the 12v trigger and cleaned the plug and now it starts! '
Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 02:10 pm, by: Darren Bauer(Dazmon)
Hi Josh can you go back a few steps, I have a similar problem, and I'm pretty sure its the shifter. I've got it all open at the moment, what should I be checking there?
Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 04:45 pm, by: Josh Mcgrath(Goldtt)
Darren Bauer wrote on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 - 02:10 pm:
Hi mate, under the shift panel you should see the park brake switch, looks like a small box with white plastic linkages attached. I had noticed on mine that the linkage had jumped off from underneath the red park lock button. The rod pushes on with a fair amount of force but be carefull as they will be pretty fragile by now. Let me know how you go mate.
Darren Bauer TryHard Victoria Soarer TT & Aristo TT
Previous
