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Mike James
Newbie
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1
Reg: 02-2017

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Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 04:56 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey guys,

After reading close to 50 different threads relating to fuel ECU problems, I've decided I'll post a thread and see if anyone can shed a little more light on my very annoying situation. I'll try not to ramble.

A few months ago, I ran out of petrol in my 91 TT Soarer and a few days later, my fuel pump bit the dust (according to the Auto Electrician I took it to anyway) and I got it replaced. I chose not to go with a genuine part as they said the cheapest they could find was $500. Anyway, I got a Goss fuel pump and got them to install that.

For the last month or so since its been fixed, its been running fine except for it being a little noisy, but I've read that is common for the aftermarket ones.

Anyway, yesterday (a 41 degree day in Adelaide) I took the car up to the petrol station at the peak of the heat and put premium unleaded in, then when I went to start it, it would only crank it wouldn't fire up. Pretty much the exact same symptom as a month and a half earlier when it was the fuel pump problem. It felt like de ja vu.

I let it rest for a minute or so and started it again, and it managed to start and drive reasonably fine across the road to the car wash, where I needed to go for a few minutes. I decided to leave the car running while I washed off what I needed to because I was so afraid of it not being able to start again.

At the end of washing it, it stalled on me. I gave it a rest and tried to start it again, this time it came up with the japanese "Engine Electrical System" dash warning and it fired up but was idling terribly and when you put your foot on the accelerator, it would struggle to rev. It also blew black smoke when revved.

I managed to limp home, only going about 40km/h max, it was running terribly with no power.

I get it home and spend the night reading threads on here... and I'm thinking it may be the fuel ECU. My question is, could this be related to replacing the fuel pump recently or is it just a coincidence? Could it have been due to the extreme 42 degree day?

I attempted the fuel ecu bypass with the paperclip this morning but the only paperclip I could find turned out to be too thick, so I was unable to try it out.

The car is currently sitting back at the auto electrician shop (after getting it towed) and I've let them know that I think it may be the fuel ecu.

And just as I'm typing this, they've called me and told me they didn't find any faults when they plugged their computer in and they think it may be because my battery is on its way out and my terminal connectors aren't very good and need replacing too. They said it's running now, but running rich and that it may just need a good solid drive. I asked them if they tried the fuel ecu bypass check and they were pretty vague. I'm picking it up in half an hour so will have a good chat with them about my options.

Any thoughts you guys have would be appreciated. Cheers. Mike.
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1337
Reg: 02-2006

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Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 05:52 pm, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

what fuel you running? my original soarer used to falter after about half an hour or so of running on pump 98 ( with 10% ethanol in it) . would run fine on 98, but didn't seem to like the 98 with ethanol.
if the engine electrical system sign came on, then it will have left a code I'm guessing. have YOU run Diagnostics? I'm not talking about their diagnostics machine, I doubt it will pick up anything from an OB1 car.
a failing battery CAN cause a number of issues, so get the battery checked. Doing the fuel pump ECU bypass is a good way of finding out if it is the ECU at fault.
another thing could be faulty caps on the engine ECU. Or a faulty map sensor, or crank angle sensor, or cam angle sensor.
Mike James
Newbie
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 2
Reg: 02-2017

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Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 09:26 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Blake Gloyn wrote on Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 05:52 pm:




Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 05:52 pm, by: Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) what fuel you running? my original soarer used to falter after about half an hour or so of running on pump 98 ( with 10% ethanol in it) . would run fine on 98, but didn't seem to like the 98 with ethanol.
if the engine electrical system sign came on, then it will have left a code I'm guessing. have YOU run Diagnostics? I'm not talking about their diagnostics machine, I doubt it will pick up anything from an OB1 car.
a failing battery CAN cause a number of issues, so get the battery checked. Doing the fuel pump ECU bypass is a good way of finding out if it is the ECU at fault.
another thing could be faulty caps on the engine ECU. Or a faulty map sensor, or crank angle sensor, or cam angle sensor.




It was BP ultimate 98. This problem came on immediately after I put the fuel in.

I haven't run diagnostics, no. I wouldn't know how to, so I'll have to search on here for that. I'll make sure to run a check as soon as I get my car in the morning (I got them to hold it for the night).

Not too sure what an OB1 car is either, all I know is that he said to me he had some new diagnostics machine that picks up more faults or something.

So replacing the battery and terminal connectors is a good place to start then?

Thanks for the reply, Blake. Appreciate it a lot.}
Roland Elliott
TryHard
New South Wales
uzz32 1uz-fe

Posts: 238
Reg: 08-2014

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Friday, February 10, 2017 - 12:33 am, by:  Roland Elliott (Aussie2013) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am unaware of any new commercial asdl scan tool that will pick up any more than the cpu can output, its not really possible to do so. think they are bullshitting.
Mike James
Newbie
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 3
Reg: 02-2017

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Friday, February 10, 2017 - 01:22 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Roland Elliott wrote on Friday, February 10, 2017 - 12:33 am:

I am unaware of any new commercial asdl scan tool that will pick up any more than the cpu can output, its not really possible to do so. think they are bullshitting.




Well, I've bought a new battery today and new terminal connectors. Picked up the car from the auto electricians and they said they "managed to get it started", it was already able to start in my opinion. So essentially they don't know what's wrong with it.

I've driven the car to my work around the corner and I've removed the old battery and changed the terminals. I'm letting it rest now with no battery... so the ecu can reset (I'm unsure on how many minutes it needs to be unplugged to reset).

I'm hoping it was just a battery... but I highly doubt it, considering the luck I've been having.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12896
Reg: 11-2004

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Friday, February 10, 2017 - 04:05 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OB is OnBoard diagnostics. It allows a standard tool to be plugged in to get a reading from the ECU. Soarers are OB1, all more modern cars are OB2 which is much more comprehensive.

For you to do your own diagnostics, start here:
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/1113/1113.html?1150010852

Also check that the earth connection from the battery to the chassis is tight and clean. Has been known to cause problems before.
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1338
Reg: 02-2006

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Friday, February 10, 2017 - 05:04 pm, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yes , search for the tutorial on how to run diagnosis. Though you will need a thinner paper clip! :-)
i actually meant OBD1 not OB1(star wars character) On Board Diagnostics.
With regards to OBD1 and OBD2 diagnostic ports, it refers to the shape of the port/plug that the diagnostic machine plugs into. The diagnostic port is the round one under the dash by your left knee. Although there is a rectangular one under the bonnet that we use more commonly, not to plug the diagnosis machine in to, but to bridge terminals. You can see that one much better. it seems most cars went to OBD2 in about 1996. Rectangular plug, normally under dash. Much more info, and more gizmos available that read or display info in real time.
Mike James
Newbie
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 4
Reg: 02-2017

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Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 02:26 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for your responses, Peter and Blake.

I'll give running the diagnostics a go myself. Hopefully I won't stuff anything up though.

The new battery is in now, however there is no change whatsoever. Not even in the slightest. Next time I'm down near the car I'll check the earth connection.

Would it be wise of me to reset the ECU (via removing the green fuse), and then try start the car again?

I most probably will be giving Manta Automotive a call on Monday and booking it in, I think.

I tried the paperclip bridging of FP to B+, and just to confirm, should I hear the fuel pump begin to whirl even when the key is not in the ignition?
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 2318
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 02:44 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

only with key on
Mike James
Newbie
SA
JZZ30 TT

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Reg: 02-2017

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Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 05:28 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok guys. No question is a dumb question as they say, so I feel I need to ask...

Is my fuel pump supposed to continually run when I turn the ignition on to the point where the dash lights up (and all the warning signals etc come up too). I have not bridged it or anything yet.
Mike James
Tinkerer
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 6
Reg: 02-2017

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Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 06:24 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Update. I bridged FP and B+ and heard some sort or whirring noise coming from the engine bay, so I figured I must have got the connection right, tried to start it and problems didn't change at all. Still the Engine Electrical System warning and still idling terribly.

I then bridged TE1 and E1 and turned the ignition on, the green Japanese writing appeared to show I was in diagnostics mode and I then pressed scroll. First message was EFI NG and then EFI __. Then waited 30 seconds (I thought it scrolled automatically) before pressing scroll again and the next message was ECT NG and then ECT __.
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1339
Reg: 02-2006

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Monday, February 13, 2017 - 06:50 pm, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

indulge me mate. Reach down by the front turbo there, and unplug the plug that goes into your oxygen sensor that is in the cast dump pipe just under the turbos. Now see if it runs any better.
Mike James
Tinkerer
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 7
Reg: 02-2017

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Tuesday, February 14, 2017 - 12:26 pm, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Unfortunately it's sitting at a new Auto Electrician at the moment, Blake. Otherwise I'd give that a go.

I'll make sure to keep everyone updated.
Mike James
Tinkerer
SA
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 8
Reg: 02-2017

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Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:42 am, by:  Mike James (Myk393) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

One thing I've learned from this entire saga, is that there is nothing worse than reading a full thread and getting to the bottom and the OP doesn't say how the problem was eventually fixed. I wanted to make sure I post the solution in case anyone else goes through the headache I did.

I decided to take out the ECU, or at least attempt to anyway. I got it all done and I was about to unscrew it to see if there was any visible damage inside (eg caps stuffed etc) but the screws were in very tight and I wasn't using the best screwdriver, so rather than ruin the screws, I decided to throw in the towel and hand it in to another auto electrician (different place than the previous one).

They checked all the sensors etc and decided to get a second hand ECU from the wreckers and replaced mine with it. Bingo bango. She's running better than ever.

A big thanks to everyone who replied to me. I appreciate it a lot. Cheers.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12897
Reg: 11-2004

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Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 01:37 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for reporting back, glad you got it fixed.

Perhaps get the old one repaired as your replacement may be just as old.

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