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John Stafford
Goo Roo
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, limited edition supercharged. 2013 Titanium Territory, Petrol 7 seater, 1JZ twin turbo set up for the track.

Posts: 1235
Reg: 02-2010

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Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 08:00 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How long should you let your car idle after a hot run where the car is running 17psi boost?
What is the best turbo timer to buy? Is there any difference in the different brands.
On ebay both Apexi and HKS go for $30 delivered. There are some cheaper ones too.
How to choose?
Please advise. Thanks
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1356
Reg: 02-2006

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Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 10:53 am, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

1 minute normal driving, 3 minutes if it has been a hard run, or an extended one. Stick with a quality brand.
There has been a small trend away from turbo timers in some regards. People are just driving the last minute or two of their trips less aggressively. Idling around. looking for a car park, the excess heat in the turbo core soon dissipates into the oil and water systems. On longer journeys, the final few minutes at reduced aggression, combined with a one minute 'sit in the car and let it idle' usually does the trick.
If this doesn't suit your lifestyle or character, get a turbo timer.
John Stafford
Goo Roo
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, limited edition supercharged. 2013 Titanium Territory, Petrol 7 seater, 1JZ twin turbo set up for the track.

Posts: 1236
Reg: 02-2010

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Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 02:54 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Blake, I have been doing pretty much what you suggested but I think I will get one anyway, as I want to ensure the best life of my turbos and it is not much of a price to pay ($30 for a named one, Apexi or HKS).
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black! + 89 Z20 Aerocabin

Posts: 1752
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 08:43 am, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Are the turbos brand new? or is this a Soarer with normal k's on it?

Like Blake said, if you want to smash up a mountain run hard and then pull over, sure let the car idle, but you are idling at minimum oil pressure with stinking hot oil too..

Most turbos are water cooled now and still circulate coolant via convection even when the car is off and with a full synthetic oil they do not burn anywhere near as easily as mineral oils.

My 2c, run good oil and cruise around the block if you thrash it before shut off.

Turbo timers are just another thing in your cars ignition system to fail (like immobilisers) and cause you grief in the future.
John Stafford
Goo Roo
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, limited edition supercharged. 2013 Titanium Territory, Petrol 7 seater, 1JZ twin turbo set up for the track.

Posts: 1237
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 11:49 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the turbos are steel wheels high flow twins and they have only done maybe 5000 klms. The engine has done about 130K. So after a track lap limited to about 6500 to 7000 rpm how long to cool down enough to shut off?
It has red line oil in it at the moment but next oil change I plan to run Nulon 10-40 full synthetic, as I have run in my V8 soarer.
It sounds as if I am over concerned in feeling the need for a Turbo timer?
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black! + 89 Z20 Aerocabin

Posts: 1753
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 01:58 pm, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah, it's a hard concept to grasp with the newer tech coming through. I used to think a timer was needed also from all the 80's and 90's cars that had them fitted.

Re: track usage. That is probably the only time that I could think of that a car may need a bit of time to cool down, but i honestly would never "cool" a car down by idling it.. My water temps rise to over 95 degrees sitting when they were late 80's driving around and the 1J's have a oil/water heat exchanger on the filter base.

I'd be looking at oil and water temps and just drive around until they are back to normal temps if they are elevated.
John Stafford
Goo Roo
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, limited edition supercharged. 2013 Titanium Territory, Petrol 7 seater, 1JZ twin turbo set up for the track.

Posts: 1238
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 05:07 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My water temp is never over normal but not sure how far over it has to be before it shows on the normal dash gauge.
I have a new radiator, and a special purpose-built expansion tank on it, because of the room issue with the intercooler.
I think your reasoning makes sense, so will not bid any more on the Greddy unit that I have bid $2 on.
Fancy paying the new price of over $200 for one when you don't really need it :-(

Off topic but someone looking at this thread might be able to advise me on a blow off valve issue.
I am in the process of getting everything mod plated and need to address the issue of my car having the best "turbo smart" race blow off valve. This valve will get rid of 50 psi instantly but cannot be modified to put the air back into the airbox to make it legal. Hence I have to forfeit this great asset which is perfect for the track or the mechanic suggests that he can put another blow off valve back where the original was on the twin turbo manifold, after machining off the aluminium welded blank, and fit a solenoid to allow me to switch between the two for road (legal) use and track use. This sounds a great idea but now I need to source the right blow off valve cheaply that will handle my normal 17 lb boost.

Does anyone have a good cheap "bov" for me, that will go where the original bov is. I can't use a standard one or it will automatically let my pressure out when I come onto boost.

comments please.
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1357
Reg: 02-2006

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 06:56 pm, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

why will a standard one let the pressure out when you come onto boost?
John Stafford
Goo Roo
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, limited edition supercharged. 2013 Titanium Territory, Petrol 7 seater, 1JZ twin turbo set up for the track.

Posts: 1241
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 10:39 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The mechanic said that it will let go at the stock pressure, as soon as the car reaches that pressure. That is about 10 psi, right?
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black! + 89 Z20 Aerocabin

Posts: 1754
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 12:49 am, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Honestly, the dash temp display is useless.

It reads 'normal'/middle from about 85 to 110 degrees.

Just get a blank for the raceport BOV to get the mod plate. Plenty of cars are on the road with venting blow off valves.

IF you get defected, just re-install a v-band blank to clear the defect.

The stock BOV doesn't open at over the stock pressure. The mechanic doesn't know how they work. Boost pressure holds the valve closed, so the more boost you make, the harder it pushes the valve closed. They can leak a bit with age and they won't flow as much air as the race port and make cool noises, but other than that they're fine ;)
Blake Gloyn
Goo Roo
manawatu
soarer JZZ30 TT

Posts: 1358
Reg: 02-2006

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Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 07:54 pm, by:  Blake Gloyn (Blakenz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

seriously think about changing your mechanic. It only opens when you back off the accellerator. We tested a stock one on the dyno to see if it was leaking boost at 19-20psi i was running at the time, but it wasn't.

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