Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 01:46 am, by: Daniel Kim(Hotboxcivic)
hi guys, new to the forum, i heard that the soarer is known to have power window problems and i'm experiencing one myself.. i've done a quick search but can't find a solution..
i have 91 GT-T, and my passenger window does not work. the switch is illuminated and the mirrors fold, can't remember if the door light works.
i was told that it is the power window switch? which is like $100! can someone please tell me it's just a fuse or something cheap.
Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 06:35 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I wouldn't say the Soarer was prone to power window problems. My previous Soarer had done 250,000k's and both windows worked like new, as compared to Mazda's, Honda's and Nisans I have owned that all had various issues with their power windows with less than 1/2 the milage.
Can't really help you too much as I've never had a problem with them, but I would suggest getting the problem properly diagnosed first, then if it is a switch, sourcing a good second hand part rather than paying $100 for a new one.
Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 03:30 pm, by: Daniel Kim(Hotboxcivic)
Ok, I finally got around to checking the fuses and wiring and they all seem to be ok. I've ripped apart the door trim and noticed bits of glass in the door, perhaps the window had be smashed and replaced before. Either way, the door light works, and the switch light turns on too. I've tried opening the switch itself and found nothing really wrong with it, perhaps it's burnt out though, as I found some dark areas. But when I push the switch to move the window down, I get a click from the motor, no movement.
Could it be that the switch is busted or does it sound like a regulator related problem? I'm hoping that the previous owner simply wacked the window on and didn't bother to hook every up properly.
Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 03:31 pm, by: Daniel Kim(Hotboxcivic)
What would be my best course of action now? Try a new switch? Buy an expensive regulator? Or get the window professionally checked to see if it was fitted properly in the first place?
Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 10:48 pm, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
Both left and right door passenger window switches are is parallel so you would have to have two faulty switches. Fault will be in wiring into the door or motor.
Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 11:06 pm, by: Daniel Kim(Hotboxcivic)
Very interesting Mark, I was thinking they would be in circuit, but the lights seem to be out now. Both on the passenger side and the passenger switch on the driver door.
If what you're saying is correct Mark, shouldn't the LEDs atleast light up? Where would be the most prone spot to have a fault?
Is there an easy way to check ALL of the wiring from the switch to the motor without fail? i noticed alot of the wiring goes behind the the door and fed through alot of casing..
Also noticed that the previous owner had a window lift kit fitted with the alarm. But neither windows go up. There is a wire spliced from the passenger window plug to a relay, tried disconnecting this wire, but with no luck.
Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 09:19 am, by: Robin Giles(Rob)
Make sure you haven't accidently pushed down the button that stops the window from operating. I was cursing mine the other day until I realised that I had inadvertently activated the window lock.
Friday, July 28, 2006 - 01:24 pm, by: Don Bagnall(Baggs)
The link Peter refers to is the long-winded version (or if you're a purist!).
The version that Mark refers to, is: Yank the rubber conduit out of the the body appeture, locate the White(with Black tracer) wire.............it WILL be broken in half, and join them together, using whatever method you may desire............problem fixed!
Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 12:53 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
OOOLD OOOLD THREAD DUG UP HERE !!
Ok guys, im having the same bloody problem with my passenger window and its driving me (and my poor passengers) nuts !
** Passenger window does not work ** The light still works ** The light on the Switch still works ** The mirrors work ** I checked the fuse but will do it again ** I have not done the relay swap yet as i dont think that would help me. ** The window used to stop every now and then but i just assumed it was the switch as i could still do it up using my drivers controller, now it obviously doesnt work at all. ** Yes ive checked the window lock button
I just need to clarify something here regarding the black and white wire theory.
Ive checked the wire on the passenger side and it seemed fine, should i bother checking the drivers loom also as it was mentioned that the switches run in parallel??? My drivers window works fine by the way. *is it safe to assume that if one window is still working then its NOT the power wire that is broken ?
I really wanna get that window down again soon and not have to pull off the door trim another 4 times to figure it out.
Brian Timms DieHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Saturday, August 18, 2007 - 10:46 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
Dont do what I did last year with my old car....
I had an issue with the passenger window in my 180sx, I lifted the switch out and checked for voltage, ended up pulling the door trim off to check the wiring, checked the loom all the way to the inside of the door, then pulled the glovebox out, and heaps of other junk to get back to the loom in the car, then suddently found out that I had the window on 'lock', so spend 4 hours stuffing around and looked like a dick
Monday, August 20, 2007 - 11:52 am, by: Shaun Stephenson(Neonasty)
Yeah Im getting the same problem too.
However I can hear a repay clicking on and off randomly, right behind the boot release button. Then no windows will work, and neither will the sun roof. When th sun roof is open, it will then beep at me, like when you leave it open with the engine off.
I'll screw around with it this weekend. Replace the relay, and check the wires.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007 - 12:35 pm, by: Shaun Stephenson(Neonasty)
To tell you the truth, no idea. I havnt seen the wiring diagrams. One thing I can tell you, when my car is being screwey, if I crack open the drivers door, it usually fixes the problem.
This suggests that the problem is in the wires from the body to the door.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 07:29 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
UPDATE,
Ive checked the fuses and the relays again (and swapped relays to be sure) and i also re-checked the wire and its not broken.
Getting frustrating now.
Questions:
1) If ONE of my switches is stuffed, does that render the other switch inoperable also?
2) The window lock button ONLY LOCKS PASSENGER WINDOW ..... Correct ? (Cos it is NOT locking my drivers window when switched on)
3) Do the V8 drivers controls work in TTs ? (reason i ask is because i may have to try one from my mates V8 to rule out switches as a drama)
Any help would be really awesome, im not scared of taking it to my auto elec i just like to try and figure this kinda stuff out for myself. But if all else fails it will have to go down some time when i have free time (read - not often)
Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 07:14 pm, by: Angus Shen(Loveflies)
have the same issue with James, I try to check everything as well and i though it's may be an issue of windows lock on driver's side. James did you fix your's?
Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 09:59 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
Hi Angus,
Yeh i fixed mine finally...
I ended up buying a 2nd hand window motor as i could only hear mine ticking... I pulled the old one out and only then did i decided to check the replacement one.. SILLY.. i shoulda checked it when the old one was still in place.
The new one only went UP, so the clicking was because the window motor (original one) was only winding UP and didnt even make a noise when i was pressing DOWN (which i didnt realise at the time).
The next week i went on a cruise and i tried using a mates window buttons in mine.
1st i tried HIS master button with my passenger one.. NO luck.
2nd i tried MY master with HIS passenger one and BAM ! SUCCESS !
So it was my passenger side switch ALL along !
ANd it gets worse - - when i removed the old motor (without testing the new one 1st) it seemed that i had destroyed my window regulator. I only realised this when my window made some really bad noises when i was testing switches.
SOOO i ended up having to buy a NEW regulator from toyota which was about 200 bucks or so.
And i bought a replacement switch off Rob for 25 bucks i think.
What a pain in the arse that whole experience was.
SO MORAL ? Ask one of your soarer mates to check his switches 1st as its really easy.
Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 10:11 pm, by: Angus Shen(Loveflies)
thanks James! good to know these I test other passenger switch but no luck, but I didn't try my driver side switch! I should test it when my friend have a soarer! I just have no friend who can borrow a set of switch for me may just try to hunt one from someone
thanks for your information anyway, good to know this
Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 05:43 pm, by: Paul Funtowicz(Shifted)
I know it is an old thread, but saves starting a new one....
I am having the same problem, and I am stumped...
** Passenger window does not work ** The light still works ** The light on the Switch still works ** The mirrors work ** Fuses are fine. ** Driver's side passenger window switch doesn't make the window go down or up either ** No problems with the window lock button...
Wires are intact everywhere, the rubber boots in between the door jams are mint and no problem...
Does this make it the actual motor that is screwed?
Has anyone got another motor I could borrow, then buy if it is the motor that is a problem?
Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 05:56 pm, by: Paul Funtowicz(Shifted)
The rest of the gear on the driver's switches works fine though - do you mean something actually broke on there though?
I removed the driver's side and inspected the area at the door, no problems, checked power on the passengers (not with a volt meter though, just a light) and it lit up fine...
Newby questions - first time I have owned a Soarer.
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