Tuesday, January 16, 2007 - 10:17 pm, by: Tref Abbott(Tref)
Having realised that I may never have enough dosh to get my Soarer professionally re-sprayed, I am thinking about doing it myself. Anyone got any hints or tips? Basically paintwork-wise the bonnet and boot are fine, as are the doors but the roof and rear corners look crap.The bodywork is ok, it's just sad paintwork.I would probably need to take the paint back to primer or bare metal.I'm thinking that if I get the courage up to do this, I would change the colour to gloss black but I wouldn't take the windows etc out. I don't want 'perfect' I just want something that looks less 'down on his luck'.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:09 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Lots of practice before you start. Get some old panels to practice on. Prep is everything, you can never be too fussy. The better your prep the better your final result will look and last, and the better your technique, the less cutting work you will have to do when the paint is dry.
I've only ever painted two cars, and both were pretty much disasters mostly because I was too lazy with the prep and had poor gun control. The second was much better than the first though, they both resembled orange peels to some extent.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 01:05 pm, by: Tref Abbott(Tref)
Thanks guys. Time, you have my attention. Where do I get it done for 1k? If this means me sleeping with the paint sprayer's wife then I'm probably not interested or at the very least I will need time to prepare myself physically (alongside coming up with an alibi to explain my disappearance to my partner). Matthew- I've also done the 'orange peel' bit, which, in my case was due to my inpatience and putting on too much paint at once. Should I take the panels down to bare metal or just down to primer? If I decide to stick to the green metalic paint (you know, the most common colour for Soarer's, it seems) should I only spray from one direction and how long do I wait after the top coat before I add the laquer?
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 01:37 pm, by: Aka Abedin(Soarer_91tt)
Tref for metallic colours what you need to remember is to go side to side and then up and down and then cross action. Otherwise the metallic affect would have striking lines. AND trust me you dont want that.
As for going back to bare metal not necessary if the paint isnt cracked. Just rub it down with 800 wet and dry and slowly work your way upto 1500 went and dry. Make sure the body is smooth.
Also before you start painting use wax and grease remover. Use about 70% thinner and about 30% paint. Long even strokes, and keep the gun about 20-25cm away from the panel.
If you start getting runs you need to move your gun quicker or you put too much thinner. Just have to find the balance.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 02:30 pm, by: Miles Baker(Milesb)
Forget about doing it yourself. Just forget it. Especially black.
You won't get anyone to change the color for $1000. What you will get is a rub down and a quick 1 or 2 coats of half decent paint. It will look pretty good. Stick with the same color.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 05:03 pm, by: Avin Luther(Lex_luther)
was joking.
Mine got a full respray! but i actually WAS vandalissed. blessing in disguise though. car looked 10 times better and for only $1000 excess. lotsa brand new bits ex japan aswell.
Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 08:53 am, by: Tref Abbott(Tref)
Sorry Tim (yes it was you) I was too busy coming up with that 'sleep with the painters wife' smart arsed comment to check my typing. It looks like doing it myself IS gonna be a bad decision. Trouble is, due to having an ex wife's lawyer to support, money is virtually non-existant so I don't have a lot of choice. That 1k spray-over sounds good though, especially if 1, I stuck to the green paint and 2, as the bonnet, boot, doors are pretty good already (or would they HAVE to be done at the same time to avoid mis-matched paint?) I'm 5 mins from Buderim on Sunshine Coast. I don't mind travelling into Brizzie etc for that price.
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria Active V8 and a Factory Manual xf.
Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 09:20 am, by: Dan McColl(Hoon)
A happy medium, which may result in a better job, is for you to put the time in, do all the rubbing back and preparation, and then pay a pro to do the actual painting and whatnot. This could save a heap of money, and still end up with a professional job.
Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 10:01 am, by: Miles Baker(Milesb)
I don't know many painters who would spray a car someone else prepped. And there is a lot of skill in prepping a car. I have tried before, and had my results laughed at. And I thought I did a great job. Made one hell of a mess too. Just leave it all up to a pro if you want even a half decent job. They have the experience, the space and importantly THE TOOLS.
I do just about everything to the cars I restore. Mechanical, electrical, interior, metalwork. Where I draw the line is body. I'll weld in floors, but I won't touch panels or try to paint. It's just not worth trying.
Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 03:28 pm, by: Ali Yazici(Wa_ali)
$2K you can get a wide body kit with respray from Fibretech in Campbellfield. Or alternatively, a nice decent respray set you back 1500, personally id just fork out the 1500 if i dont have any experience, or do a tafe course just like the other guys have mentioned, and then get the whole thing done your self for 300 bucks
Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 08:32 pm, by: Tref Abbott(Tref)
Thanks again. (Jees, I like this club) What IS coming across loud and clear is that I CAN get a reasonably priced job if I am careful (maybe with some sprayers recommended by you guys) and that so far, seems to be the best way. I don't have the time or energy to do a TAFE course so it's looking like I will eventually have tofork out at least SOME dosh. $1000 to $1500 is something I might be able to handle in a few months time. I'm not sure where Campbelfield is Ali-Is it anywhere within two hours drive of me? Any other sprayers anyone knows of?
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