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John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 283
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:39 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a problem with boot and left hand door locks that you can't get the key into properly. I took the boot lock out and pulled it apart and cleaned it all out and took the little brass keys out of it with and checked that they were all level when the key is in the barrel but if you don't help the key go in by pushing the little brass keys in so that the key can go in properly you can't get the key in. I even tried filing off any rough edges that were limiting the freedom of these little keys so that they slid easily in to their slots but still the key would not go in unaided. This helping hand that you can give it when you have the barrel out is not possible of course when the lock is in the car.

Can anyone help apart from telling me to go to a locksmith?
I followed a post on the web that showed how to lube with graphite by putting about 25mls of bare pencil lead in and grinding it up by pushing the key over it again and again but still this did not help the key to go in.

Help, I want to do it myself rather than pay someone else to do it. Is it that the little brass keys are too worn?

Cheers and thanks for any help in advance
John
Michael Toet
TryHard
Vic
V8

Posts: 307
Reg: 06-2009

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 08:13 pm, by:  Michael Toet (Myke31) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had a similar problem with my boot lock. Seems you went to a lot more effort than I did.

I just sprayed some Innox on the key and a bit into the barrel and gently worked the key in and out. Reapplied some Innox to the key and did it a couple of times to work in some of the spray.

All works perfectly now. I betting your issue won't be that simple considering how much effort you've already gone to.

Good luck.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 284
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 08:36 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks for commenting Michael. I will let you know when I find answer or it someone else here has the answer. Cheers John
Wayne Womersley
TryHard
Victoria
V8 Limited

Posts: 410
Reg: 12-2011

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 08:38 pm, by:  Wayne Womersley (A49kidx) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi John, only a guy of my birth year would have the patience and ingenuity to go to so much trouble. Most people just, buy new locks, get 'someone else' to fix? it, (for big $'s) or buy another car. I have dismantled a few locks myself, very tricky, and you must have the 'bits' (and the little springs), clearly marked and taped on a sheet of paper.
The most annoying part, and I have experienced it many times, is after putting in the time & work it still does not work.
But when it does, the thrill is great because YOU alone have FIXED it.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 285
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 09:31 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Wayne,
I like your quote (The older you get the harder it gets), read mine on my profile (nothing ventured, nothing gained - I think it came from Sir Edmond Hillary). "I will succeed through perseverance if not by skill and brains" could be another quote of mine.
I have a VL commodore in Thailand that I had a 2jz vvti engine fitted to and then had to refit it myself. I spend 3 years and 20 modifications of the tailshaft, axles, diff, wheels and tyres to get rid of the vibration in a third world county in another language and did finally succeed I probably would have succeeded sooner if you had of been there to encourage me. I am not sure why I haven't succeeded with this yet and may have to go and ask a locksmith the reason it has not worked for me? Cheers John
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

Posts: 3643
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, July 26, 2012 - 12:16 am, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Could just be worn, but I'd hit it with some WD 40 or silicone spray lube and see if that helps.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 286
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, July 27, 2012 - 06:12 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I took the lock to the locksmith and he said the problem was that the key was too worn to active the pins.

I had the original key with the info inside what they called a transender, that they could read with their special machine. It told them the dimensions of the original key and so they then could re cut a new key as it should be in the original shape (before it got worn).

I suppose that the boot lock has had little use in the 20 years, whereas the key and its 3 mates, copies with the same wear patterns, has had plenty of use.

I learned that Inox is a great lock lube but must never be mixed with graphite as you should not use dry lube mixed with wet lube, one or the other is the go.
The trick is to dismantle the lock and clean it with some mineral spirits or the like, including the barrel and the key and then use graphite or just choose to use Inox or silicon lube.

But my story is not yet over as the passenger door lock is very hard to get into with the original key, almost impossible but the key is finally able to be jiggled into the lock, mustn't be good to do this, and so get the door open or locked. The new key won't go in at all yet.
I will pull that lock out and dismantle it and clean it and see then if the new key ($49) will work in it. The old original key works fine in the glove box, the drivers door and the ignition as does the new key, so think that I will do something with the passenger lock even if it is to change or file the pins in it to get it to work.

Here ends my report for now. Cheers John
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 297
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:37 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Further to my lock saga:
I pulled the passenger lock out and found that when I tried to get any key in it stuck on the second last and last keys. The old key went in but would not turn the lock, the new key would not go in at all past the first 3 key slots.

I took all the brass key pins out and layed them out in order and looked at them carefully to see the number stamped on the side of each one of them.
The ones that were causing the problems were worn badly. I went though a spare lock that I had and found 2 good condition pins with the same numbers on them and replaced the faulty ones and cleaned it all up and sprayed full of silicon lube and "hey, presto" it worked.

So problems solved. If you are working on locks make sure you do not loose the pins or their springs. Work in a bowl with good light and clean hands and keep things in order. Good luck.

By the way, when you are pulling the handle out of the door you might break the plastic rod keeper/retainer in the lock mechanism inside the door, or you may find that it is already broken. you can order these from Toyota or go to a wrecker and get one off a Camry, which is what I did

It is a great feeling to triumph. Cheers John
Walter Gillmore
Goo Roo
QLD
TT JZZ30

Posts: 1632
Reg: 07-2009

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Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 11:02 pm, by:  Walter Gillmore (Cl33pa) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

wow. good read :-) epic undertaking!
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12382
Reg: 11-2004

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Friday, August 10, 2012 - 06:08 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


John Stafford wrote on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 10:37 pm:

get one off a Camry,


Is the Camry one any more substantial or just the same?

The Soarer ones are only about $7 new from memory, though probably more by now.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 298
Reg: 02-2010

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 06:50 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok, now I have the locks working with regard to taking a key I have some more problems:

Problem #1.
On my 31 I can't get the adjustment right to get the door lock on my drivers door to properly lock the passenger's door. It works sometimes and other times it only half locks it. I have to check that it is locked from outside every time I leave the car.
Any one had this problem and solved it?

Problem #2.
On my 32 I was ecstatic when I discovered that the original key with its remote function actually worked (My original 31 Toyota key with its remote button my does not work on my 31 for some reason even though I replaced the battery).
But alas, my remote key on my 32 was only working for 5 minutes, because something went wrong with the whole idea of the electric door opening system.

The driver's side door controls would not operate the passenger's side door lock.
I took the door card off and watched what was happening and noticed that the inner wire of the cable was barely moving at first and after a few "on" "off" switches it did not move at all.

With a closer look I noticed that the outer cable had detached itself from its crimped end part.

Has any one had this problem and can it be repaired? Has anyone successfully glued the outer cable back into the crimped part? or does it mean a new cable and does that mean a new assembly?? Or is there something else that I am missing?

I want the cheapest way out of this.

When I drive off and the auto door lock system comes in I hear it trying to lock my passenger door every few seconds, through an impulse in my driver's door lock, so I have to reach over and manually lock the passenger's door, then it is fine.
By the way, if I do things manually it works fine.

Thanks for thinking along with me.
Cheers John
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 299
Reg: 02-2010

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 06:51 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Peter, the Camry one is just the same as the original only the wrecker gave it to me for free
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1164
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 07:07 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

you need to replace the cable unless you can get the correct crimper and recrimp the out outer sheaf
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1165
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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 07:09 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

further to the above, do not use a "wet lube' on locks as it attracts dust and "gums' up the lock.

Only use dry lubes, graphite or silicon
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 300
Reg: 02-2010

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 07:14 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Tom,
Can you suggest who might have the crimping tool?
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1166
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 10:42 am, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

no idea, maybe a cable company or electrician. I replaced it with a 2nd hand one when i had the problem in marks car.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 301
Reg: 02-2010

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 06:59 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tom, do you think I have the same problem in both the 32 and the 31? Which one did Mark have a problem with? The door that wouldn't lock properly or the door that would not lock at all?

By the way, How did you eventually get rid of Mark's Soarer?
Tom Richards
Goo Roo
nsw
V8

Posts: 1167
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, August 11, 2012 - 08:28 pm, by:  Tom Richards (Tomr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

there is no adjustment for the drivers door to operate the passenger door. It is electrical Look for a broken wire in the loom drivers door to car.

sold marks car to a local guy.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 302
Reg: 02-2010

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Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 03:05 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good to hear that you were able to move the car. Local might keep you as the fix it man
I will look the wire. Thanks John
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 304
Reg: 02-2010

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Monday, August 13, 2012 - 09:25 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I looked more closely at the problem with the 32 passenger door lock.

Here is exactly what is happening:
When I press the electric door lock button on the drivers door there is, at first, a small movement in the cable (I have the door card off so that I can see exactly what is happening) but when I work the button a few times that movement diminishes but there is still power getting to the black box that is on the bottom of the door mechanism on the passengers door.

It seems to me that the motor or whatever is in that black box has worn out so that it can't actually work the cable.

Can this black box be fixed or do I just need to replace it?

Any suggestions out there?
thanks.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 305
Reg: 02-2010

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Monday, August 13, 2012 - 09:52 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Now for the 31 door locking problem as a separate issue.

When I lock the doors, with the door locking button on the drivers side, or when the auto locker tries to lock the door when the car reached that speed that causes the doors to lock, the door locking mechanism will not fully activate the locking thumb handle, so that the door does not actually lock.

Just solved the problem by getting the white plastic adjustable cable holder in the exact right position.
I had to unclip that white plastic cable retainer and move it forward just the right amount, allowing the cable to be held back a bit more than before thus allowing it to pull more against the thumb locker button.

I had moved this before but obviously I hadn't gotten it in exactly the right spot.

All good with the 31 now, just need to get this 32 fixed.
Has anyone had the problem I am having with the 32 locker?
Daryl Demarte
TryHard
Victoria
IS300 & UZZ32

Posts: 137
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, August 13, 2012 - 07:55 pm, by:  Daryl Demarte (Helieng) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

John,

You will find that the electrics in the door lock actuator have gone kaput.
There is a small electric motor that drives a nylon gear. There are contacts on this gear that work the motor. Sometimes this wears and will not work as you have found out. You could pull the actuator out and check it - not hard to dismantle.
Usually the only way to fix it is to replace the actuator (held in by 3 torx screws). Make sure if you get a s/hand one, that is working and not in the same condition as yours.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 308
Reg: 02-2010

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Monday, August 13, 2012 - 08:03 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Daryl,
I thought that this would be the case.
I will take it out when I get time and see if there is any hope for it and if not will set about to see if anyone has an actuator for a passenger door lock.
If it is really caput then I will probably start with Daniel Savage.
cheers John
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12385
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Thursday, August 16, 2012 - 07:11 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

There is also a temp sensitive thingy that stops the motor overheating. Your repeated attempts may have made that start to operate and reduce the power available to the motor.

Also check the soldering.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 315
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, August 17, 2012 - 10:49 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks for those thoughts Peter, I have put in on hold for a bit at the bottom of present priority list.

But, my glee with fixing the 31's problem of half locking door was premature, it still only locks half way some times.
Tai Johnsen
Goo Roo
QLD
JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!

Posts: 1189
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 08:09 am, by:  Tai Johnsen (Privatejohnsen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


John Stafford wrote on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 09:52 am:

When I lock the doors, with the door locking button on the drivers side, or when the auto locker tries to lock the door when the car reached that speed that causes the doors to lock, the door locking mechanism will not fully activate the locking thumb handle, so that the door does not actually lock.




I had this problem with my old v8, and I solved it by replacing the locking solenoid... It just didn't have the grunt to move it.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 326
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, August 24, 2012 - 11:01 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

a bit more explanation of the problem:

The lock on the 31.

After adjusting the white fixing, on the inside handle cable, where if presses onto the clip behind the internal door handle, back and forward, I have found that that does not make any difference to my problem.

I do not think it is the solenoid not having enough grunt but still maybe that?
The problem is that even manually you can not lock that internal door lock if it doesn't want you to.
Sometimes you can and sometimes the solenoid will lock it for you too, but the issue seems to be that when you can't lock it from inside, you have to open the door and then close it again. Now you can lock it by hand (pushing the locking tab home), or by the control on the drivers side. The auto door locker will work then too.

Sometimes when you try to get out of the passengers door without unlocking it, the mechanism will go spastic and the outer door handle will jam half way out forbidding you to exit. You have to go around and turn the key in the lock and then the door handle will pop back in and you can open the door.

So there you have it. Has anyone had these symptoms?

thanks for persisting with me. Cheers John
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 477
Reg: 02-2010

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Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 06:06 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Final victory on both fronts.
The problem with the 31 was a bent rod, where it slides up and down, it was not able to slide freely.
I had to remove the whole mechanism and straighten the rod slide. Now perfect.

The problem with the 32 was the actuator was shot. I removed the whole unit and replaced it with a good one.

I thought that it would help if I briefly explained how to get the door lock assembly out:
1. Remove all trim both inside and outside the door, which means you have to remove everything including the mirror.
2. Undo the window rail and slide it up and out far enough to allow easy access to the lock assembly.
3. Take the mechanism out with its cables attached, just unplug it and take it out having undone the 3 torque screws.
4. Put everything back together with the new or fixed lock mechanism.

Hope this helps. If anyone needs further explanation let me know and I can explain more.

If you need the main plastic clip lock that holds the rod in the actual door handle itself, let me know as I have some spare that I bought and can send you (both sides available)for $2 each plus postage.

Cheers John

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