Author |
Message |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 80 Reg: 11-2005
| The vent on my console has 2 cracks in it.. so any one know where to buy a new one?
|
Steven Nanevski
TryHard NSW JZZ30 Twin Turbo
Posts: 143 Reg: 07-2005
| Good luck mate trying to find a 2nd hand one not cracked, I have been trying for ages with no success, best option, pull it out an glue it.. |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 82 Reg: 11-2005
| Any one got a picture of their glue repaired vent surround? |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 83 Reg: 11-2005
| how do you take the black surround out of the dash?? |
David Vaughan
DieHard ACT Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)
Posts: 701 Reg: 07-2005
| Peter Burrett has done it and it looked pretty good. See if he turns up with some pics. |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 84 Reg: 11-2005
| Yeah. How does this break any way? it was like it when i got it. Just seems like a weird place for a break... |
David Vaughan
DieHard ACT Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)
Posts: 704 Reg: 07-2005
| Cold A/C air across a warm vent causing differential expansion and cracking is the last theory I saw. My theory is that they all crack and it's a real bugger |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 85 Reg: 11-2005
| yeah i thought it would be something annoying like that.. ill just have to glue it with a really small amount of glue, dont want to much glue to come out of cracks! Have you glue repair yours? |
David Vaughan
DieHard ACT Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)
Posts: 705 Reg: 07-2005
| No. Main reason is that I think I should remove it to do the job properly but that is a tricky task and, er, um, I couldn't be bothered [hides head in shame] |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 86 Reg: 11-2005
| ha, Do you know how to take it out. I really want to get it done. Its the only thing ruining my interior!! |
Darryn Dewar
Tinkerer Gisborne UZZ30 Soarer
Posts: 100 Reg: 09-2005
| Hey Mike, Check your email |
David Vaughan
DieHard ACT Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)
Posts: 706 Reg: 07-2005
| These instructions were sent to me some time ago by Peter. The "serious superglue" to which he refers in the last paragraph is a slower-setting superglue (15-20 seconds rather than five) which I used for radio control racing cars, and available in good radio model shops. [I can not write "/C" for "radio control" because it appears like that.] It's reasonably easy...... go to reepa.com and there's a tute "Centre register removal and repair" the repair bit is not yet there. Maybe you can add it for Rob.. Anyway..... you take off the underdash panel by removing two christmas tree scrivets towards the forward edge, pull/slide the panel towards the rear and it unclips from four retaining clips. Two screws are revealed under the glovebox, which you remove. Open the glovebox, remove LH and RH plastic blanking plates (if they are still there, mine aren't) on the upper inside edge and the screws beneath them. Gently pull the glovebox towards the rear. Detach two electrical connections (typical fiddly Toyota clips, you'll need a small electrical screwdriver to depress the latches) before taking out the glovebox. Now turn into a dwarf. On the left of the LH register is a screw holding the trim to the dash frame - remove. Under that is plastic connecting tube from vent to centre. It's held in by a single screw. Remove screw and remove tube. Lie on your back and look at the rear of the wood trim. If you are lying across the seat squab, it may be wise to have a cushion in the footwell to give you some support. There are three wingnuts (if you're lucky, some bastard had replaced mine with 10 mm nuts), they will probably be very tight if never before removed. I used pliers on Neil's donor car to get them loose, once loose, easy peasy. When all three are off, get a big flat blade screwdriver and a pad of stuff - I used a notepad. Gently ease the wood trim off from the left. There is a hidden spring clip at the extreme centre right of the piece - it's a part of the centre register and is V shaped into a rectangular hole...... using the notepad as a protective mobile pad between the upper edge of the wood, slide blade along towards the extreme right, keeping the pad in between the blade and the dash..... easy does it and the clip will come free. Out comes the wood, the left and the centre registers. You can disassemble the face plates from the registers proper by removing small screws on top and bottom of the registers, and by CAREFULLY slipping retaining tabs that you will see. It probably doesn't matter if they don't all survive, but best if you can save them. Pretty pictures show all you need to know on reepa.com..... Approx times: Lower panel, < 5 mins Glovebox ~ 5-10 mins (depending on your ability to depress the latches on the connectors) Screw and wingnuts ~15 mins (depending on agility and tightness) Remove trim piece <3 mins Disassemble registers < 5Mins All up 40 mins, allow 20 mins for think time and caution + no more than an hour, and probably much less. Your serious superglue will probably work but you need to ensure that it goes in the back and doesn't emerge from the front of the crack, else it will just look like a repaired crack. |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 87 Reg: 11-2005
| Thanks Darryn and David. Great help! I shall get this done some time next week when i have some spare time avalible or i may try to glue it with out taking it appart. I have a plastic glue with a long needle, so it would go into the crack well at the back.,. I could then hold the plastic parts together for a minute or so. May be alot eazier!! |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 88 Reg: 11-2005
| but i think ill just take it appart as at the same time i can clean the a/c filter, clean the plastic pannels and also tighen my lose glove box. Then my interior will be 100% fine! |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand 1991 UZZ30 GT4.0 V8
Posts: 1526 Reg: 05-2005
| Mike, the news re a NEW one ain't good. None in NZ, and $392(NZD) + GST ex Japan . For other members, if interested the part number is: 55660-24061 it MAY be available NEW in Oz |
Mike Beck
Tinkerer New Zealand Soarer uzz30 4.0GT
Posts: 95 Reg: 11-2005
| Haha $392 + gst i could all most buy headers for that much. Ill just glue it nicely! thanks for looking Don. |
Blaine Hanson
Tinkerer WA V8
Posts: 87 Reg: 08-2005
| Save your money, I suggest repairing it as if you buy a new one, it will most likely only crack the same as the one you just replaced ...... almost guaranteed! |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand 1991 UZZ30 GT4.0 V8
Posts: 1534 Reg: 05-2005
| Good point Blaine. I'm lucky in that mine is still original & perfect , and I'm inclined to agree about the reasons for cracking,ie: people come back to their car after it's been sitting in the hot sun all day, and they whack the AC on to MAX chill, which is gonna crack the hot plastic fairly quickly . What I do, is put both windows down, start driving (AC off), wait for a km or so, THEN put the AC on......so far no cracks (touch's wood).
|
David Vaughan
DieHard ACT Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)
Posts: 736 Reg: 07-2005
| On the other hand Don, if it is already cracked then you get to turn on the A/C straight away; no waiting |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand 1991 UZZ30 GT4.0 V8
Posts: 1545 Reg: 05-2005
| Exactly!, a bonus, possibly |
Callum Finch
TryHard WA Soarer TT
Posts: 434 Reg: 09-2005
| Cracks in mine =< |
Don Bagnall
Moderator New Zealand 1991 UZZ30 GT4.0 V8
Posts: 1556 Reg: 05-2005
| "Show us ya crack" |