Friday, October 21, 2005 - 02:51 pm, by: Samantha Hornby(Soarer_chick_1jz)
Is anyone in WA willing to give me a hand with some of the following things which I either (a) can't fix (b) probably could fix but am too nervous about breaking other things in the process (c) need supervision fixing?
1. Blitz FA Turbo Timer: I've done something to it and now the screen just flashes red, beeps at me and won't let me tune it.
2. Headlights: both yellow and cloudy, left one has moisture inside. I read the Shake n Bake tutorial but am a little nervous about cooking my headlights on a slow heat. Has anyone in WA actually done this successfully?
3. Horn/Hazard lights: Neither works (and yes I've replaced the fuse). I took it to my very trusted mechanic who used one of them things that lights up when there's power there and he said he can't seem to find where the connection has been lost, and I'll need to book my car in so he can trace the source properly. Any auto-electricians out there?
4. Tail lights: left one also has the sauna effect happening, a few people commented on this on Saturday. Any thoughts?
5. Squeaky Brakes: only very mildly squeaky but starting to get annoying. Is this a DIY job or should I book him into Beaurepaires?
Thanks lads. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, and there's beer in it for ya
Friday, October 21, 2005 - 03:36 pm, by: Chelsie Keating(Chelsie)
Sam i have a greddy turbo timer, but i had the same problem a couple weeks back... just kept beeping and flashing red.. my mechanic fixed it in like 2 seconds, it was something to do with the voltage setting i think..
also.. i was a bit nervous about fixing my headlight problem too, i did'nt wana do any damage.. so i cheated and took them out and gave them to headlight exchange in bently.. they came back looking like brand new!! i couldnt belive how awsome they looked, it has changed the whole look of the car, looks so much newer! they charge $120 a light i think... well worth the money though..
Friday, October 21, 2005 - 04:59 pm, by: Chris Fonte(Luvbuds)
Yeah thats all do-able. With your Headlights if you want to avoid the oven method which i suggest as its a lil tricky ish otherwise if u takeout your lights you can tip some Metho ,make sure its the purple Metho its much more effective, inside the headlight (inside globe holes)give it a shake and dry. Also you can use Megiars Scratch X if you have it or Brasso or equal even toothpaste and apply that to the front of the lights it will get rid of most of the external scratches. Heaps quicker and comes out well. Just try reseal each unit before re-installing so they dont get full of water again. I had some probs with my horn. Forget what exactly but nothing some playing wit wouldnt fix. Hazard lights is odd. Have you had an alarm or after market stereo installed recently? Taillights are the same principle as the headlights except they seem to get more condensation. Mine are the same. Squeaky brakes are pretty normal man. More than likeyl almost time for pads or to get your rotors skimmed. My car was pullin as if it needed a wheel alignment turns out the rotors needed skimming. All fixed. Happy to help you with anything i can Sam. Good Luck
Monday, October 24, 2005 - 02:36 pm, by: Andreas Niaouris(Andreasn)
Headlight/tailight outside clean is easy as, I can easily do that (about my level). Can also remove your headlights and re fit so that you can wash the insides. As far as the leak goes, in my soarer I've run some sikaflex around the edge seal and the indicator globe (94's have a larger lip over the indicator globes to prevent water washing in). I've also drilled a couple of small holes in the bottom to help drain water, but don't like the idea of drilling into lights any more than anyone else. Seeing as the washing and drying can take time maybe a few of us should get together and make a 1/2 day of cleaning lights.
Monday, October 24, 2005 - 03:43 pm, by: Stephen Hille(9zero)
I would definitely be in for the headlights fix, although as I understand it the sealant needs to be left to dry for 24 hours, would be funny seeing 10 soarers driving around Perth with no headlights
Monday, October 24, 2005 - 04:41 pm, by: Shannan Jones(Livinitup)
1/2 day would be optimistic on full repair job.
Only Yellowing/Scratches 1/2 day is fine. Remove lights and polish, avoid damaging paintwork that way. Personally I use a plastic buffing wheel, and compound, on a bench grinder setup, which is quick and easy and gives best results. Two wheels one is first stage, using compound(cutting), second is finishing stage, using polishing substance I use a Meguirs Plastic Polish(polishing).
Condensation & Yellowing Danger factor in heating lights in oven. There isn't much margin of error between melting sealant enough, and winding up with melted lights, the black section will begin to sag. Trick is to constantly keep trying to open lights up, as you heat, don't use the time method. Wear gloves!
Heat gun/Hair dryer method is a mission wouldn't suggest it, as you can't heat evenly enough make very hard to seperate, done once never again.
Once they're apart life is easy clean up, use same polishing wheel method, but can attack inside, though a rotary tool(dremel) will assist doing the inside plus a little manual labour. While your there give the orange indicator cover the flick! Add RICE also known as Angel Eyes.
To put back together, I use windscreen silicon. Only needs time to tack off as clips will hold together tight. Can place back in car, just now keep away from water for a couple of days.
Started a write up at home on it but never got bothered to finish the last bit and post on my site, got alot of write-ups just time-poor to pretty them up and upload.
Monday, October 24, 2005 - 04:55 pm, by: Shannan Jones(Livinitup)
1) Find a manual, should find is a simple setting change. 2) See previous post. 3) I found that my horn was disconnected, as you have a front mounted suggest checking that someone has not done that in the process. Hazard lights....would start at switch...or if aftermarket alarm fitted look at connections with that as some installers tap into the indicators at the hazard switch. 4) Same as headlights, or simple way is to remove and run a bead of silicon around the join. 5) Shim, or another option is to put an anti squeal compound, generally an orangy red goo, on the back of the brake pad, I do this as a matter of course now when changing pads.
Would normally offer a helping hand, but my life consists of working full-time and trying to do a full-time university load. After November exams I get my life back.
Tuesday, October 25, 2005 - 02:32 pm, by: Andreas Niaouris(Andreasn)
thats where sikaflex is also good (though much more expensive than silicon. Put it on, spread it over the existing seal and it's fine to put straight back in.
Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 11:08 am, by: Stephen Hille(9zero)
Haha el desperado!!
That headlight exchange that Chelsie talked about sounds expensive but sounds good - did they take yours apart, clean, polish and reseal them? I would love to do it myself I am just so scared of breaking them and having my car out of service while I cough up for a new pair - not to mention the cost...
Wednesday, October 26, 2005 - 01:25 pm, by: Chelsie Keating(Chelsie)
yeh Steven, all i had to do was take out the lights and bring them in.. and they were ready to pick up the same day... if you have the money its really worth it, a friend of mine ruined his lights trying to fix the problem himself, and they arent cheap to replace.. this is why i was a lil bit nervous to do it myself i guess..
but like i said b4, its really changed the whole look of my car, the lights look like brand new ones..
Monday, May 15, 2006 - 08:41 pm, by: Mel Clark(Mel)
easist way to clean your YELLOW HEADLAMPS, but couple of sheets of sandpaper, 2000 grain, wet sandpaper and rub onto the lens, this will remove the yellow, then wash off, mo need for expensive polish or cutting compound, only takes 10 min, from start to finish, both sides, 2000 grain paper will NOT SCRATCH HEADLIGHTS, paper MUST be wet.
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