Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 03:28 am, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
hey all i want to change from the stock EMV system. now i want peoples opinions as what to do with it.
1. keep the emv system stock 2. replace the whole emv system with aftermarket system, and a climate control unit retro. 3. swap out the main and sub amps for new units( if so which ones should i go for) 4. swap out all speakers and amps and replace with new stuff + a headunit in the place of the tape player and get the emv working with them.
i really dont know which way im leaning towards, but i prefer the stock look.
Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 06:28 pm, by: Nathan Hlad(Jackpot)
i jammed my boot with 2 very expensive 12" subs got 6" for the back and focal 4 1/2" splits up front. i have no room in my boot but thats ok with me when does anyone look in your boot ?!?!
Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 06:55 pm, by: James Buchan(Jrbuch)
Love the EMV, would be great if I had a dvd player connected to it, or possibly an I-Pod interface which I have seen posted here somewhere. Need something more modern than the tape player though. I'm leaning towards option 4. But obviously option 2 also sounds good!
Friday, May 14, 2010 - 07:17 am, by: Daniel Arndt(Darndt)
Ali with the Ipod interface correct me if I'm wrong but you still need to control the music (eg track shuffle) from the ipod itself? So like using a mobile while driving wouldn't be all that safe? I'm about to do the same thing. Ive ordered a TT climate control unit and will eventually get a 7" touch screen all in one unit. Its a pitty to lose the EMV but mine has heavy pixelation and I really want bluetooth for streaming music from my phone, and GPS that actually works. I also think I'll upgrade the speakers and sub and just a small amp for sub but retain the sub in the original position. The head unit should run some small aftermarket speakers, I'm not after deafening sound (been there done that) Just after sound quality.
Friday, May 14, 2010 - 07:52 am, by: Robert Faggian(Tanooki_suit)
I replaced the EMV with a TT climate control...in my opinion the EMV looks too out-dated. Right now I've got a single DIN with bluetooth/phone, etc but will eventually swap it out for a 7" touch screen hooked up to a carputer.
Friday, May 14, 2010 - 11:54 am, by: Tim Ross(Retox)
My current setup is climate control unit & double din touchscreen dvd up front.
Front speakers are Polk Audio 6.5" Splits Rear speakers are Polk Audio 6.5" Coaxials Factory sub has been replaced with a 8" Polk DVC Sub And its all powered by a 5ch Clarion Amp.
All speakers are under the OE Speaker covers and amp has been flat-mounted on the rear boot wall with a support board put in between the fuel tank and the wall.
Overall, VERY happy with quality of sound and how it has all come up cosmetically.
Monday, May 17, 2010 - 12:46 am, by: Tim Ross(Retox)
Ali, I went for overall sound quality.. not pure SPL.
The 8" Dual Voice coil does a great job of adding depth, and it does it quite well in the parcel shelf without an enclosure. No doubt it would perform a lot better again with one, but I'm hapopy with it as it is
Phil Gibson Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 01:29 pm, by: Phil Gibson(Sciflyer)
I have done the same as Andrew (using the same Alpine head unit) and would recommend it if your EMV is still in good nick and you dont want to get rid of it. Its not quite a bolt-in fit but close, a little modding is required
I have found even using the factory speakers and wiring the sound quality from a good quality head unit (+ amp) will be noticably better than the factory system. Even thought the factory EMV-spec system was good, you cant beat 20+ years development in DACs...
Phil Gibson Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 12:56 pm, by: David Barnes(Toyota_celsior)
Option 4, I would get a single din unit that has dvd and mpeg capabilitys but doesnt have its own lcd screen but a video output that can be used with the emv, jaycar sell a nice single din dvd player with out the fold out screen, but if watching videos isnt your thing, then just get anyone head deck, mount it as in the picture above, definetly new speakers as the stock speakers are not the correct ohm's by memory and not exactly the best by todays standards, depending on how loud you want it, you can just get a mono block or 2channel amp bridged to run a sub and run the speakers off the head units power, or get a 4 channel amp bridge 2 channels of to the sub and use the other 2 channels for the front speakers and the head deck runs the rears. Jarcar sells great amps and speakers at an awesome price considering the compenents high quallity anything from there response range is awesome, they have a cheaper range also called vemon which ive heard good things about aswell, be sure to check them out when you start shopping.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010 - 01:45 pm, by: Daniel Arndt(Darndt)
What about GPS? If you do single din and keep the EMV you will then need a separate GPS stuck on the windscreen. Which are annoying. I'd love to have it integrated into the car. Hence an aftermarket 7" touch screen unit normally have these inbuilt. Most people use GPS now so it makes sense to have it inbuilt.
Nice Phil head unit below the EMV, is that where the factory Tape unit was? Or did you have to make a custom bracket to slot that Alpine into that location?
Is it possible to have your kind of setup with a Screen or so mounted there controlled by the head unit?
Phil Gibson Goo Roo WA '91 UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Thursday, May 20, 2010 - 02:24 pm, by: Phil Gibson(Sciflyer)
That pic is actually Andrews, but mine looks similar.
Yes it replaces the tape unit, single din head units will bolt straight into the factory EMV "frame", however you will need to mod the ashtray lid slightly as there is not quite enough room
Friday, May 21, 2010 - 12:11 am, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
ok so im some what decided. going with that head unit, 2 amps, new front and rear speakers and tweeters, and two subs. im not decided if i want a sealed enclosure because i really want a boot might just stick two 10" on the parcel shelf, but that would require some chopping and what not
also decided to upgrade my electrical system while i was at it. new 200amps alternator( yes overkill i know) and 650CCA+ battery. should be more than enough.
Friday, May 21, 2010 - 11:26 pm, by: Aiden Cheese(Chillpen)
You can get a capacitor if you think you're pushing out too much wattage and you see your lights dimming. That might help. I personally wouldn't put a battery in the boot, from experience with those kinds of things, unless you get a fully sealed unit you could be running into problems with various state laws
in which case you have to get a battery box which vents outside the car. Although thats easy because under that battery in the pic is a bunch of flaps used to let air exit when you shut the boot
Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 04:51 am, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
im pretty new to the audio scene so:
can i run components speakers in the back?
the fronts and rears should be 4x100wrms @ 4ohms. the amp is 4x100wrms @ 4 ohms. i assume this should be a pretty good match. sub is 1000wrms @ 4ohms and sub amp is 1000wrms @ 4ohms
so this is what ive got so far:
the head unit has three pre amp outputs. will i use two and run crossovers for both? i.e the 1st one will be highs and mids for front+rear speakers and tweeters, and 2nd one will be for lows for the sub. i am quite confident with doing the power wiring, but the audio stuff not so much. am i running the amps the right way?
Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 08:00 am, by: Jason Hall(Halljps)
Your wiring looks correct. Normally your speakers would be specced to handle more than you amps can output to protect them from being overdriven. The second/larger battery is really only if you intend on running the system when the car is not running as the alternator takes care of things when the engine is on. (Assuming it has capacity to drive everything at once. Think driving on a rainy night: wipers, lights, amps). You should be able to roughly work out the max current draw (amps) on the alternator and then size appropriately. A capacitor is usually there to assist with power spikes where a large bas driver or the like is punching heavier loads than the system would normally see at random times. The capacitor is like a surge tank in a fuel system which helps the electrical system ride out the peaks without send all power to the speaker and stopping things like the ignition in the process. Sorry if this states the obvious, just my 2 cents worth...
Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 01:34 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
well i had a look at the monoblocks details and its got built in crossovers so i think crossovers before the amps would be overkill. ok so should be running components in the front and the rear? or coaxial for the rear?
You don't require components in the back, your frontstage is where you want the trebble to be coming from (and at you). Ideally you would want the speakers facing you, and in most factory locations they never do but with custom pods it can be made better, unless you want to go all out and remould the door trim to suit a speaker that faces upward to you.
So you can run components in the back, but it's not required and you should just save that money and get a quality sub.
Always get an amp that is rated more than the speakers you are running, as you always want some headroom, since you are already getting speakers that can handle quite a bit of power get an amp that can make the most out of them.
But you can just stick to what your getting.
Can go co-axial in the rear, but It would be 6 x 9's that you'd mainly just use for bass, I run Pioneer TS-D Coaxials in the back and filter out the treble, Yeah I like my bootspace so I don't run a sub woofer.
Save your money on good Coaxials or Components for the front.
Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 06:28 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
cant really run coaxials at the front because we do have space for tweeters..so yeh. i might just run some 6x9s at the back. that sub needs a 1ft^3 enclosure lol
If you can fit the tweeters in the stock location that would be good.
For your speakers in the doors, to get the best sound quality, make custom spacers that angle the speakers to face you.
That is if you want to be a perfectionist but why not. Consider adding some sound deadening to the doors to reduce vibrations. Make sure the enclosure (your door), is airtight, so seal any holes that may allow the rear wave to interfere with the front wave.
Saturday, May 29, 2010 - 12:07 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
I'm no audio guru but here is my two cents =P I have a set of MB Quartz speakers up front in the stock mounting. They fit perfectly behind the covers etc. I cant remember exactly what model they are however they were ~$1400rrp back in 2007. Mounted the crossovers in the gaps under the rear seats where factory satellite nav computers etc were stored.
They sound fantastic and would probably make up 80% of the sound volume in the car. These are run off an amp along with the sub. The rear speakers are nothing special and run off the head unit.
The experience is better than the fancy pants theatre i built at home.
Previous
