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  Soarer Central * General Soarer Chat * Soarer Jump Start - Help urgently needed * Archive through January 06, 2006 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Luke Nieuwhof
TryHard
WA
Soarer TT

Posts: 396
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:31 am, by:  Luke Nieuwhof (Luke_nieuwhof) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Fellow Soarerites, help needed urgently!

My battery is near dead. Needs jump start. Is there anything I need to do specific to Soarers? Or just the normal procedure? Anything to watch for?
Katrina Bruns
TryHard
SD
Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 In-line 6

Posts: 198
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:44 am, by:  Katrina Bruns (Katrina) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Normal proceduer Luke.. and when you replace it.. make sure its the correct battery :-)
David Vaughan
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)

Posts: 1150
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:45 am, by:  David Vaughan (Davidv) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dear Search. Speak to me!

"OK, try this one:"
http://soarercentral.com/alsc-forum/messages/4/48680.html
David Vaughan
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)

Posts: 1151
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:47 am, by:  David Vaughan (Davidv) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

or, quoting the electrical goo roo directly

quote:

How do i jump start my soarer?...very bloody carefully!!
Connect the two battery positives together with a jumper lead. Then connect second lead to the negative of the battery being used to jump start; the other end of the jumper lead is connected to the CHASSIS or engine block of your car NOT the battery terminal; this is to eliminate any possibility of sparks causing battery explosion.
If you are using a battery in another car it is not usually necessary to have the car running; leave the jumper leads connected for 5 or 10 minutes to allow the flat battery to absorb some charge before attempting a start.
Soarers have good starter motors and generally jump-start very easily


Luke Nieuwhof
TryHard
WA
Soarer TT

Posts: 397
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:49 am, by:  Luke Nieuwhof (Luke_nieuwhof) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks, did a quick search but couldn't find what I wanted. I ticked key word and search for variants on jump starting but didn't find much. Hehe maybe someone could search for a how to use search topic for me, I'm pretty sure theres one around.
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1090
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:56 am, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just the normal procedure which I'll refresh for any who need it.

BOTH cars OFF.
Connect one jumper lead from battery positive in one car to battery positive in the other.
Connect the other lead to negative terminal of one battery and the other end to the chassis or engine block of second car. It is extremely important that this is the last connection made and that it is not to a battery terminal.
At this stage you can start the 2nd car. It is best to let it run for as long as you can before attempting to start the Soarer. This will bring the flat battery up to charge a bit and make starting easier. You can skip this bit with a Soarer as they are generally easy to start (especially V8) and a battery that won't start a Corolla will start a Soarer. To be absolutely failsafe stop the donor engine after a while before attempting to start the Soarer (not always possible if you don't have time for the Soarer battery to charge or the battery is actually stuffed but it IS the safest way).
Once the Soarer is running turn off the donor car and remove the jumper leads in the reverse order of installing them.
If the Soarer battery is rooted then get it changed ASAP as the charging circuit relies on a healthy battery to maintain correct voltage levels. All sorts of nasty things can happen with a faulty battery up to and including total destruction of all electronics in the entire car (no joke).
Easy when you do it right, can be a total disaster if you get it wrong.
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1091
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:59 am, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hahaha... in the time it took me to write that David found my last post on the subject
Luke Nieuwhof
TryHard
WA
Soarer TT

Posts: 398
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 12:05 pm, by:  Luke Nieuwhof (Luke_nieuwhof) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers guys, legends!
David Vaughan
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)

Posts: 1153
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:10 pm, by:  David Vaughan (Davidv) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You probably missed it for the same reason I recently missed some useful material on gearboxes, Luke -- forgetting the ALSC Archive. That is where I found those posts. I have it bookmarked separately so I can reach it faster.
Ryan Rankovic
TryHard
Victoria
Soarer TT GT-TL

Posts: 265
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:13 pm, by:  Ryan Rankovic (Ryan1j) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i had to get RACV to jumpstart my car in my driveway as I was doing stuff to the car with the stereo on for a while and the battery died.

The guy put the jumper leads on the + and - terminals of the battery. He didnt put the - on the chassis.... should he be doing so?
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1097
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:29 pm, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

YES, the last connection should be to chassis or engine block.
99 times out of 100 you'll get away with it but that one in a hundred is a doozy as anyone who's ever seen a battery explode and lived can tell you!
Brian Laws
Tinkerer
Queensland
JZZ30 GT-T

Posts: 57
Reg: 11-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:36 pm, by:  Brian Laws (Asian_warrior01) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

or we all could get manuals and clutch start the car, i wish i had a manual in mine. I would not have to worry about being pushed just roll out the drive and down the hill. hehe
Dan McColl
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ-32 V8 Soarer #138

Posts: 548
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 01:47 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It's probably worth using those surge protecting type jumper leads with all the electronic's in the car.

And yes, that 100th time is a doozie.
Dave Bain
Tinkerer
Victoria
UZZ31 - V8 GT Limited

Posts: 29
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 03:05 pm, by:  Dave Bain (Resident) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Does it matter how many amps the cables are rated at?

Ie. Mine are 400amps which the packet suggests for V6 and V8s. Is this important or just a marketing ploy?
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1098
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 03:42 pm, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you leave them connected for a while (15 to 20 mins) before starting the car then the jumper cables don't take all the starting current, they will share it with the once flat battery (unless the battery IS completely stuffed) so don't need to be rated at the full current. I've started my car with two bits of speaker wire (the cheap nasty thin stuff) but had to leave it connected for nearly an hour first.

Oh, and you can't push start a manual car with a completely flat battery, there needs to be some exiter current to get the alternator going (a good 9V dry cell is enough).
Dan McColl
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ-32 V8 Soarer #138

Posts: 554
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 06:31 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats probably moreso recharging the battery than jump starting the car.

And you also need power for the ignition, fuel etc etc to push start.
Robert Petrovski
TryHard
Qld
Soarer TT

Posts: 143
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 06:41 pm, by:  Robert Petrovski (Robche) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Threads like this should go in Basic Maintenance or one of the others
Brad Elphinstone
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 GT-T

Posts: 362
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 09:12 pm, by:  Brad Elphinstone (Belphins) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Heh... flashback to 3 weeks ago when my car's battery packed it in.
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1104
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, January 05, 2006 - 11:53 pm, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Exactly the point Dan. If at all possible you should attempt to put a bit of charge in the battery before trying to start (doesn't work for a really knackered battery but it's always worth the try). This will reduce the current in the jumper leads when cranking and it is the large currents flowing around the place that cause damage. The lower the currents in both battery leads and jumper leads the less chance of large spikes being generated and of subsequent damage occurring.
Providing that the alternator is healthy and it gets sufficient voltage to the exiter winding the it will provide the power to run fuel pump/ignition etc. Temporarily connecting a dry cell (6v torch battery or good 9v cell will do) will be enough to get it charging as long as the dry cell is not attempting to supply ignition etc as well. The motor revs have to be up around 500 to get this to work but it can be done. Any leakage in the alternator windings and/or regulator will prevent this from working. The dry cell battery must be connected to the output of the reg/exiter winding only.
Dan McColl
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ-32 V8 Soarer #138

Posts: 555
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 02:48 am, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Now wait for the emv repairs to roll in from people hooking up the dry cell the wrong way.
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer UZZ31

Posts: 1107
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 10:03 am, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Spotted my ploy

Not too many cars with EMV and manual but you are right, hooking the battery up around the wrong way would not be good.
Lawrence Ostle
Tinkerer
NSW
tt

Posts: 9
Reg: 12-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 10:38 am, by:  Lawrence Ostle (Lawrence) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you do need a new battery, just make sure you install it the correct way 'round. The NRMA battery service installed a battery in my TT a while back, and connected the +ve lead to the -ve terminal of the battery and vise versa....}
Brad Elphinstone
TryHard
NSW
JZZ30 GT-T

Posts: 363
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 10:49 am, by:  Brad Elphinstone (Belphins) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Battery with terminals on the wrong sides? Funny, that's the first thing the NRMA guy warned me about when I told him I'd go get my own.
David Vaughan
Goo Roo
ACT
Soarer GT-L (4.0 V8) Lexus is300 (3.0 VVT-i 6)

Posts: 1173
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 10:51 am, by:  David Vaughan (Davidv) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Man, that is impressive
Callum Finch
DieHard
WA
Soarer TT

Posts: 580
Reg: 09-2005

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Friday, January 06, 2006 - 11:25 am, by:  Callum Finch (Sigeneat) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My dad works night shifts 50% of his time these days (relates to my story below)..

Anyway, the battery on the ol' 4Runner he is trying to sell ran flat for whatever reason about 6 months ago, asked to borrow my Ford to give it a boot.

We go through the normal motions, go to start the 4runner and hear a VERY weird clicking noise (not a normal noise whre things sound broken) and the -ve lead popped off (BANG!) the battery in my car and the cable melted out of the clip other side of the -ve lead at the 4runner side.

...In his sleepy daze he had connected them opposite ways rounds like.

Luckily, both cars started again and no subsequent electrical faults were found. I wonder if thats because the Toyota (4runner) is built so well that it recognises idiots, or if the pure blunt Aussieness of the Ford didnt have anything that wasnt already broken?

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