Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 01:08 am, by: Paul Irwin(Rival)
Well, i have been convinced that i should take the soarer out to wakefield in a few weeks so i need some info from you guys on various parts i will need for the excersize!
if you dont knwo the answer to all of these but know some please help me with what you know. cheers!
1) Brakes, what do you guys (who have done track work) use and recommend? are the TRD pads any good, and if so does anyone know their product number and wheres the best place to buy them?
2) Brake fluid, i will be replacing my brake fluid as it hasnt been done in a good while. what rating and type and volume (how much?) is recommended?
3) Clutch (manual) Fluid, i havent changed this in as long as the brake fluid (100,000km service years ago) so i need to know the type and volume of fluid needed.
4) Suspension settings, what Camber, and Toe in do people here run on the track on their TT's?
5) Tyres, i might end up just using road rubber, but i would really prefer some second hand semi slicks that i can drive to the day in on 17" rims (8.0" front 9.0" rears). what do you recommend? where should i get them? got any mates who race regularly who would love to offload some used semi slicks with decent tread left?
Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 08:45 pm, by: Aaron Klaver(Nakedterror)
brakes - I was running brembo f50.. benefits of being in the game ;) The celsior setup is a good one, or the jza80 supra ones are good too, both are very similar - identical piston sizes and pad surface area, though the supra pad has a slot in the middle which would be beneficial for cooling, the celsior pad doesn't have this I don't think. The supra rotors are about 8mm bigger in overall diameter. The celsior ones aren't quite as bulky so you'll have more options wheel wise (though they're both huge for stockies)
Brake fluid - I ran castrol srf, never cooked it, even on the tightest track. Expensive at $120 per litre (you'll probably need just over 1 litre to flush out the entire system.)
Clutch fluid, not a big issue what you run there.
Suspension settings. Can't really say for the soarer, I ran around 3.5 degrees of neg camber on the front of my sti - nice, even tyre wear :D
get slicks from Juzza, too cheap to pass by - even if you pay freight up to you
Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 08:55 pm, by: Aaron Klaver(Nakedterror)
Otherwise with the brakes, upgrade lines, fluid, get race pads and slotted rotors. You'll discover their limits quickly on a tight track, but on a higher speed, more flowing track you'll be fine.
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 11:14 am, by: Aaron Klaver(Nakedterror)
some clubs have a policy that if you run full slicks, you must have a cage - much higher cornering speeds = things getting very ugly when you muff it ;)
I ran Bridgestone re540s and re55s. Honestly, I preferred the RE540s when they were at about 2/3rds wear - the stuck like •••• to a blanket. They were superseded by the re55s. Dunlop D01J are a good thing too. I had a set for the soarer, but some bugger nicked em ;)
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 12:04 pm, by: Justin Hughes(Juzza)
- I'm never gonna live that down am I ?????
Sandown is on this weekend PLUS the GT's in QLD - hopefully stocks will be replenished with lots of goodies soon - Pray for rain and the semi's will be MINE ALL MINE MUHUHUHUHAHAHAAA
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 02:21 pm, by: Paul Irwin(Rival)
i really need a set of semi's that i can legally drive to and from the track in.
anyone know of a place that doesnt want my first born for a set of new semi slicks such as the D01J's or even the Bridgestones you are referring to Aaron?
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 03:50 pm, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Paul, your TT brakes should be fine but get some really good pads, eg Ferodo DS2500's. You have to order them a few days in advance as they are custom cut to fit the Soarer. These pads are noticeably better than anything else out there.
A cheaper alternative is the Lucas pads, still very good, can feel a little bit soggy if they get really hot, but they still keep working unlike most other pads.
Preferably get the same pads for the rear to maximise your braking ability.
Brake fluid, quite a few trackday drivers have used Castrol Response Super Dot 4 (best value) with no hint of problems, or you can get higher rating fluids such as Castrol SRF or Motul RBF 600. You need about a litre for a full flush.
Tyres, the best semi-slick I have tried are Bridgestone Potenza RE55s, about $250 to fit OEM TT wheels.
If you use road rubber, pump them up to 40-45 PSI. Otherwise you will chew the shoulders more and they will overheat and lose grip - or worse. Take a pump so you can adjust the pressure between sessions.
If it's your first time, don't try to set any records on the first few laps. Track days are an excellent way to find out how your Soarer can really handle, but it is different to even serious hills hooning.
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 09:06 pm, by: Paul Irwin(Rival)
Pen,
how/where do i order the Ferodo 2500 pads? and if its not too big an ask, whats the product code for the standard larger TT brakes? also, what do they cost roughly?
Brake fluid, i cant find Motul 600 but have seen the castrol super dot 4 at supercheap...
anyone have any hot tips where i would buy some RE55's for $250ish each?
also, what do i use for clutch fluid? i remember being confused about this previously, i seem to remember it being the same as brake fluid... is this right? any R154 users out there know what clutch fluid i should be using?
Castrol Response Super Dot 4 is very good. If it can handle Mallala, it can handle anything (within reason).
Ring a few TyrePower dealers and play them off.
As I understand it, a clutch system is pretty much the same as a brake system without all the stress. Master cylinder - hoses - slave cylinder. I don't see any reason that brake fluid wouldn't be good unless the seals are made of different stuff. But I haven't owned a manual for so many years everything might have changed.
Saturday, September 02, 2006 - 10:39 pm, by: Paul Irwin(Rival)
Pen,
Thanks for the thread mentioning the brake pads, it only mentioned one product code (which i assume is for the fronts) should he also have a code for the rears or will this compfriction place know what the rears have to be also?
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- I'm never gonna live that down am I ????? 
