Thursday, October 05, 2006 - 07:15 am, by: Luke Nieuwhof(Luke_nieuwhof)
Werd....I actually though bhp was some kind of at the wheels measurement but it's not according to good old Wiki. Interesting...it's no surprise that manufacturers use it, sounds much better to quote a much larger figure. Oh and you don't have to do R&D on any pesky things like driveline efficiency hehe.
Friday, October 06, 2006 - 12:27 am, by: Paul Brockbank(Brockas)
Update, finally bought a Pod Filter *GASP* look out! haha
Jash has got a pretty good shop going in Welshpool, Tilly Pl. Called 'Air Filter Supplies WA'.
Picked up a 4" inlet K+N pod filter with clamp for $92.50.
Having said that, considering the stock air box is good for 300rwhp and 12's, I wouldn't have even bought one if it wasn't for the fact my turbo needs a 4" inlet...
Friday, October 06, 2006 - 11:22 am, by: Luke Nieuwhof(Luke_nieuwhof)
Yeah some ducting works well, I personally don't have anything so I do not expect the pod makes a difference on the road but on the track when I pull the headlight out it should be of benefit.
Looks awsome in the engine bay i reckon. And has shown power gains on dyno's. It has been flow tested and designed for maximum airflow for your POD filter.
Friday, October 06, 2006 - 12:22 pm, by: Paul Brockbank(Brockas)
Yep that is what I'd suggest you use if you have stock Turbos.
Either that or just use the BFI mod with a K+N panel filter, seems to give enough HP.
Pod filters (when not sealed off) will breath in a lot of hot air, I'm not really concerned, my gearbox probably wont handle the power of a GT35R at 18psi anyways, so the less power the better at the moment haha
As for filtration, the K+N is a lot better than others I was considering (HKS for example), everyone I know recommends them for value for money.
Sunday, October 08, 2006 - 03:24 pm, by: Paul Brockbank(Brockas)
Well...
Already run into my first problem.
Manifold doesn't fit properly. The wastegate outlet does not clear the chassis rail. I've got the choice of getting the other type of manifold off Dylan (straight swap of course) or modifying this manifold to fit. I think I'll be doing the latter as I've already had this manifold faced and had a T3 flange welded onto it. Either way it's going to add another 100-200 onto my bill... ohh woopie!
Monday, October 09, 2006 - 02:17 am, by: Paul Brockbank(Brockas)
Well, little did I know but there are actually 3 variations of china-spec single turbo manifolds for 1JZ's.
I believe they are copies of the different brand name Japanese manifolds (ie. one is a HKS copy, other is a Trust copy etc etc).
Here is what the 3 look like:
This is the manifold I've decided to use. It's a T3 manifold, with single wastegate feed, and is definitely much more suited to a Soarer engine bay. It also faces the turbo directly forward, which makes for easy fabrication of the dump/front pipes.
This is a compact manifold, no idea what model it's for, but it can be used for a JZZ30. The only reason I'm not using this one is because it's a T4 flange (don't want to have to mess around again with getting flanges welded) and it also sits the GT35R too far towards the passenger side of the car for my liking. After dummy fitting it, the 35R sat way too close to the block.
This is the large split pulse T4 manifold with a twin wastegate feed. This WILL NOT fit in a JZZ30 engine bay as it the wastegate feed wont clear the chassis rail. I believe it was either designed for a JZX90 or JZA70. Either way, it wasn't designed for a JZZ30 that's for sure.
So this is how the GT3582R sits in the bay as of tonight:
Monday, October 09, 2006 - 06:21 am, by: Adam Barry(Acdchook)
It could just be the angle of the picture, but it sure looks like the outlet of the front snail is VERY close to that suspension tower. How much clearance will you end up with once the intercooler piping is in place?
Looks similar to my setup (although 2J makes for even less room). Rotate the front housing about 30 degrees anti-clockwise according to your photo, use a 90 degree silicon bend on the outlet, and you shouldn't have too many issues.
Monday, October 09, 2006 - 12:25 pm, by: Lew Radbourn(Marlew)
Paul as simon said above mate turn the compressor housing anti clockwise the 90Deg silicon will just miss the rail and the bracket with the 2 bolts in it on top of the rail. you can also cut and shut stainless around in that area to stop any bulging in the silicon pipe and just use a small straight section on silicon BUT there is a little bit of muckin around to get the pipe in there.
I think i did simons like that when we fitted his motor in a couple of years back.
Monday, October 09, 2006 - 12:44 pm, by: Paul Brockbank(Brockas)
Yep cheers guys thats exactly what we are going to do.
We're just going to rotate the compressor housing and plumb the outlet under the intake pipe, and connect it up with the existing IC piping there.
Wastegate feed is getting braced to the manifold, and a V-Band flange welded on, plus a screamer welded to the v-band on the gate. That manifold now has to be sent off to get faced.
Dump pipe, intake pipe, and outlet pipe are all getting fabricated as we speak.
Unfortunately the manifold will be sitting in the shop for about a week getting faced, so thats going to delay things.
I'm hoping I'll have it all back and running by mid next week.
Monday, October 09, 2006 - 07:17 pm, by: Shane Ilich(Ferret)
Daniel Clarke wrote on Monday, October 09, 2006 - 05:13 pm:
Damn thats a nice looking set up also... WHat kinda Power is that pushing Shane? Have you ran it over the 1/4 at all?
Cheers Damian
It's still kind of a work in progress - final tune with 680's, Power FC and Blitz DSBC Spec R is happening on the 19th of this month. Going to push it up around 18psi, see what that yields. It's only a GT30R, but hoping for around 380rwhp.
Havent taken it to the drags yet - trap speed will probably be the best indication of her true potential, as being manual, and me not being hugely into the drags, I'm bound to have carp 60' times.
Looking forward to giving it a belting out on the track though.