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Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 111
Reg: 09-2007

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 09:49 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I got all the bolts out, main one in the bottom, 3 at the top. no amount of pulling pushing, standing on the caliper to push the whole assembly down, or jacking it any direction, would free the strut.. it was loose inside its U shaped bracket.... but couldnt clear the edges and had nowhere to go front or rear.

how do i remove my front suspension, what am i missing?
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 112
Reg: 09-2007

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 10:16 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

for the love of god (and by god i mean JZ...)
help! what do i remove? where is the tutorial or pics of someone elses build?

its absolutely nuts, i cant see how its gonna go
Gavin Smith
Tinkerer
Victoria
2.4 TD

Posts: 59
Reg: 01-2008

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 10:43 am, by:  Gavin Smith (Gavs) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I assume you mean your "coil-over dampers", aka, shock absorbers.How do you get dampers out? Well, it's easy, you compress them with some muscle!!! Then while compressed, you move the bottom away from it's mount and the whole thing just falls out. Easy!
Dave Cazes
Tinkerer
sa
tt

Posts: 76
Reg: 08-2007

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 01:10 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

^ what the...
Anyway to answer your question mike thomas
You must remove the upper control arm bolt, i dont have a link to the walkthrough and i dont have time to find it as i am at work atm.
Once the upper control arm bolt is removed it becaomes alot easier.

Also have both wheels of the ground so the swaybar isnt acting on the suspension arms
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 113
Reg: 09-2007

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 01:49 pm, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

is it a huge bolt about a foot long going horizontally through what i imagine are upper control arm bushes and holds that big steel V that goes on either side of the strut? how does removing it help me? i was wondering about that bolt, but the point of the V (which is the part you stand on right by th rotor.. some kinda knuckle..) is sealed.. cant remove it.... i dont think, so u can only remove that one back bolt?
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 693
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 06:37 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wait up mate. I'll see if I have any pics from my install. Back in a minute...
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 694
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 06:55 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here is my write up. It may be on here somewhere already. Still looking for pics...

Fitting Coilover suspension

1. Follow all preparation steps as per manufacturer’s guidelines (torque nuts etc).

Front Struts

2. Jack up the front of the car and support on stands. Ensure suspension is free to move. It is much easier if both sides are jacked up as there will be less tension on the sway bar etc.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Remove the lower strut bolt (19mm).
5. Remove the sway bar link from the lower strut mount. You may not need to but I had to on one side.
6. Remove the lower strut mount by removing the two 14mm bolts and sliding out from under the strut.
7. Remove the three 12 mm nuts from the upper mount (strut tower).
8. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Get a helper to either stand on the hub or use a lever on the upper wish bone to give you sufficient room to get the strut out.
9. Insert the new coilover and finger tighten the three upper mount nuts.
10. Replace the lower strut mount and bolts.
11. Align the lower strut mount with the coilover and replace the bolt, nut and washer. A screw driver will come in handy here to get it all to line up. You will need to lift the hub assembly due to the fact it is shorter than the stock strut. A jack or helper with a lever works well.
12. Tighten the upper strut nuts.
13. Check all nuts and bolts are tightened and replace the wheels- unless you want to have a play with the ride height.

Rear Struts

14. Chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car and support on stands.
15. Remove the lower strut bolt (19mm).
16. Remove the three 12 mm nuts from the cover on the upper mount (strut tower in the boot) and remove the cover.
17. Remove the three 12 mm nuts from the upper mount (strut tower).
18. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Get a helper to either stand on the hub or use a lever on the upper wish bone to give you sufficient room to get the strut out. These are much easier than the rears.
19. Insert the new coilover and finger tighten the three upper mount nuts. Do not replace the cover at this stage.
20. Align the coilover with the lower strut mount and replace the bolt, nut and washer. Use the same procedure as the fronts.
21. Tighten the three upper mounting nuts and replace the cover. I left my cover off so I could recheck all nuts after a test drive. You may want to drill a hole in the cover so you can adjust the damping rate easier later on.
22. Check all nuts and bolts are tightened and replace the wheels.
23. Take the car for a test drive. I would suggest a few slow slaloms and figure eights if you have a safe place to do so and then recheck all nuts and bolts including the wheel nuts.
24. Experiment with ride height and once you are happy go and get an alignment done by an expert.

Other points

25. The whole process is much easier if you can jack all four corners up and support on stands.
26. Just to be sure I used Loctite thread locker on all bolts as I do not have access to the Toyota torque settings for the suspension components. This may be overkill, and I may regret it later on!
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 695
Reg: 04-2006

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 06:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here she is.

Upload


It has been a fair while. Hope it is of some help.
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

Posts: 789
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 08:22 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dave has told you the easiest way. That long bolt running right through both sides of the alloy arms.

Remove that take the shock out and replace it. Do not damage the bolt. tap it gently out.

Yes make sure the front of the car is on jack stands. The sway bar method will work, its just harder and takes longer.
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

Posts: 790
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 14, 2008 - 08:23 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can't be arsed editing. remove the bolt, remove the shock. Install new shock, replace bolt.
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 115
Reg: 09-2007

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 05:58 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i tried to remove the sway bar link cuz it was in the way. it spun and spun and spun and wouldnt come out.. now theres a grease comuing out of the little rubber boot on the other side of it.. the rubber boot that you can see in that photo.. against the outside of the bracket.. on bolt #3...
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 116
Reg: 09-2007

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 06:02 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

also thank you VERY much for this help.
i thought i should remove that whole bracket but couldnt get any of my wrenches in there to get at those two bottom bolts... and didnt have the right size socket.
will get a new set and assault it again
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

Posts: 792
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 06:30 am, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing. The "A" arm ( shaped like an A) from the body of the car.

Held on by one 19mm nut on a long bolt that goes through both side of the mounting position. Thats all you remove.

The sway bar link is packed with grease from the factory, if you have got a clunk in the front end afterwards then it may have lost too much grease.
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 3474
Reg: 10-2005

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 07:16 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just undo top and bottom nuts, remove bolt, and then use a spring compressor in-situ. Once spring is compressed, just compress the shock down and out it comes.
Ben Lipman
DieHard
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 696
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 07:09 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mike,

You may be able to get the bracket out of the way with the sway bar link still connected. Alternatively remove the top bolt of the link?

You could remove the upper wishbone as Andrew and others have suggested. I have never tried this - sounds like it may be easier than what you are dealing with.
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 117
Reg: 09-2007

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:05 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i tried compressing the spring and it helped. i think if i compress the spring and remove the bottom bracket it might give me enough to get it out...

the top and bottom bolts on the sway bar link are the same and likely wont come off at all..

but as a last resort i can always remove the whole upper wishbone, was just hoping to not have to.

next free afternoon im on it ;)
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland / Gold coast
jzs147 93 TT / uzz30 93'/ 2 X uzz31 92' s

Posts: 2566
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 12:27 pm, by:  Lew Radbourn (Marlew) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Remove the top wish bone(control arm) bolt and let it all hang out.heheheheh
it is the easiest way to get the front shocks and springs out
Dave Cazes
Tinkerer
sa
tt

Posts: 80
Reg: 08-2007

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Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 12:41 pm, by:  Dave Cazes (Cazman) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

where are you located? it just says AB?
If your in SA i would lend you my services this weekend
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 9153
Reg: 11-2004

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Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 02:03 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It would be a long trip!

Check his profile.
City: Edmonton
State/Province: AB
Country: Canada
Mike Delsey
Tinkerer
BC
Soarer GT-TL

Posts: 11
Reg: 09-2007

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Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 02:19 pm, by:  Mike Delsey (Gyuji) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mike,

I just did the coilovers on my Soarer and Ben's walkthrough above is spot on to the word. With that bracket out and some downward leverage on the suspension arms you can weasel the assembly out without having to compress it. If you want to undo the swaybar link, you need to hold the bolt with an allen wrench (the end is keyed) and turn the nut with an open wrench or box wrench. In retrospect, though, I think I could have gotten away with not removing it.
As for accessing the bracket bolts, a u-joint for your ratchet helps a lot. I was able to lever the suspension arm down enough to catch the bottom of the strut on the innermost bolt head so that i could undo the outer one and then used the u-joint for the remaining bolt.
Mike Thomas
TryHard
AB
JZZ30 GTTL

Posts: 118
Reg: 09-2007

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Friday, April 18, 2008 - 08:46 am, by:  Mike Thomas (Petcanizzle) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sounds awesome, im confident i can beat it this weekend :-)
you're all welcome to come visit and help out, might get the brakes done too then, free beer!

;)

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