Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 12:20 am, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
I've never drove on cars with such suspension before, so I really don't know, what is normal and what in not.
First of all, when I came at morning to my car, right side of a car is lower. Like it was blown off. When I shift transmission stick in position "D" it slowly balloons and goes up. I guess it is not good. But what the problem is it?
Also, when I drove trough some uneven road surface sometimes car starts shiver. Is it situation, described here: http://www.planetsoarer.com/nitrogen/nitrogen.htm ? Would recharge help in this situation.
Also, there is oil or some liquid all over the shocks.
How should I feel myself inside when I driving? Do you really not feeling all the bumps and abruptness of the road when you are driving?
What better do in this situation. Can shocks be repaired or more easier way is just replace them? And what car have similar suspension? Maybe specialists, who worked with that cars can deal with mine?
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 09:32 pm, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
It's quite difficult to find any hydraulic engineering specialist here, cause I don't know, which other cars has such suspension.
There was on Citroen some, as I know. Is there any more? BMW, Mercedes, Lexus? But for last there cars, on official service repair would be very, very, very expensive.
So, for rebuilt I had to get something like this http://www.planetsoarer.com/UZZ32/uzz32struts.htm , hadn't I? Can I get such kit directly from Japan. I suppose receiving it from Australia is not the best idea.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Friday, October 03, 2008 - 01:18 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Look outside of suspension specialists, as you won't find much or anything that is similar.
Getting stuff from Australia is OK, the freight is a bit further, but we aren't part of the "Axis of Evil" and the Cold War hasn't gotten back to the point of everything being treated as an act of sabotage.
Peter Taplin (Aus) has had good results rebuilding the struts for people.
Don Bagnall Moderator New Zealand Mercedes Benz SLK230 Kompressor
Friday, October 03, 2008 - 05:45 pm, by: Nathan Richardson(Richtheblack)
Citroen had something similar I think in the Xantia Activa, dont know the exact workings of it though, except it has a "Roll Sphere" or something.. But the strut its self is possibly similar, maybe a Citroen mechanic might be able to give you a hand with a rebuild???? Just thoughts..
Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 01:53 am, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
I met Citroen mechanic today. He really don't know how to deal with soarer
But he said te suspension is too rigid and maybe there is some problems with electric. Also he suggested about spheres but as I learned there is no spheres on soarer.
Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 01:00 pm, by: Nathan Richardson(Richtheblack)
Id start here, the bouncing/studdering of the suspension is probably caused by a lack of nitrogen in the accumulators. Rebuilding the struts with new seals etc will also help.
Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 04:55 pm, by: Rodney Jobe(Rocket)
I'm not sure if this is the place to start but I have suspension problems too. My UZZ31 has dropped on the left hand front wheel and the compressor is working every 15seconds as it just keeps going up then down. Is there a mechanic near the sunshine coast that would be able to help me fix it?
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 12:59 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
If you are lucky, a hose has come off, if not, probably a split air bag whish requires replacing the strut. I hope it's just the hose, but it's only a slim chance.
Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 05:37 pm, by: Rodney Jobe(Rocket)
Thanks Peter I have been reading as much as I can on the site and it seems its a very expensive job getting all the struts reconditioned. Any suggestions on how to start the process. I don't have a soarer cd bible. Would that be a place to start If so where do you buy it? or anyone I can talk to to guide me through this? I can do some mechanical work and would have a go if I had a starting point.
Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 04:55 am, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
I'd like to continue my thread.
The suspension was quite good enough (except some things I described previously). But now it became extremely hard and rough. The back of the car is very high and the front is very low. Moreover the left side is lower than right. Today I tried to drive on border stone about 5sm and I scratched my bumper.
What problem can cause such symptoms?
I understand, that it is not the best way to ask before learn all the documentation, but it's quite hard to find the necessary part of the manual on foreign language.
Monday, May 04, 2009 - 08:56 pm, by: Michael Crimp(Zen1953)
Hi Yuri, The Planet Soarer link http://planetsoarer.com/UZZ32/uzz32active.htm is the diagnostic test - if you can follow the directions and it works it should give you some error codes that tell you what is wrong with your suspension. I could be wrong but that box is a junction box _for want of a better word and I think that the suspension ECU is somewhere else - and I do not know where. When the suspension is working right a 32 is an awesome beast around tight bends and pisses on every other car I have driven.
Monday, May 04, 2009 - 09:16 pm, by: Michael Crimp(Zen1953)
Yuri, This link http://www.planetsoarer.com/UZZ32/uzz32.html (which I got from one of your earlier posts in October) gives a description of where everything relevant on a 32 is. This is a complicated car so keep asking until you get it right they are worth the trouble. Since you started having problems last October has the suspension been working properly since then or have you just put up with it.
Monday, May 04, 2009 - 11:54 pm, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
Yes. There were some problems last October. But I was out of money and time a little bit and problems was not so critical. Also I had and idea to sell the car.
And now it really seems like electronics stopped working. The suspension is very rough as I said, and it's position is not changing. Also there is no warning signal on my control panel (the one with speedometer) anymore.
Now I have time and desire to make my suspension perfect. Of course I will carefully examine this link but I need no fix a little bit my car now, so I can have an option to drive it. I am really afraid to do it now.
Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 12:00 pm, by: Michael Crimp(Zen1953)
Hi Yuri, Late last year I had the shudder and discovered that three struts were leaking oil. The Vehicle Registration authorities refused to register the car for the road, I read some where earlier that your struts were leaking? If so there is no option but to rebuild the struts. Here is what I did - After much research I decided that I would do what experienced experts on here recommended. Because there were no suspension leaks anywhere else I just had the struts rebuilt by Peter Taplin here in Australia who has done lots over the years and the rebuilt struts will be better than new because they are toughened and hardened to prevent future failure. Some of the original struts failed because the high pressure bowled the chambers slightly. You can't tell if they are bowled until after you have spent about Au$2000 (for parts and labour) and a soon after they fail again. Peter will charge about Au$3000 to Au$4000 plus freight and they will weigh about 50kg. Plus he will put in a recharging valve so you can recharge the nitrogen. If you are replacing the struts you should also replace the bushes. I spent Au$1800 on Andrew Vlamos bushes and did not use them all. It may have been much cheaper to get Toyota bushes but everyone on here recommended his as being superior and as I had spent so much money already it seemed silly not to do the job properly. I do not think it is electronic - and - I really do not know enough to make that statement however it is probably a good idea to have the suspension ECU circuit board looked at by someone who has the ability to recognise what if any parts (capacitors etc) have failed and be able to replace them. Damian Ware on here repairs a lot of the soarer electronics failures. A $cost guess is Au$200-$500. I am sure you should have someone near to you with the skills to repair an ECU. The other option is to sell the car or dismantle the car and sell the parts. See the Parts For Sale Thread on the Main Menu Is your car Right Hand Drive or Left Hand Drive.
Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 03:40 pm, by: Yuri Suleimanov(Sheitan)
It's right hand drive. As I know there were no UZZ32s with left hand drive.
I'm afraid that the delivery of the parts to australia and back will cost astronomic sums of money.
About the ECU diagnostic. I've never done it before. Does anybody have more detailed instruction. Like "Remove this screw. After that..." I even don't know, do I need specific electronic devices to run the diagnostic? Or I can handle with this using ordinary amperemeter?
Yuri Contact Peter Taplin to see if you can buy a set of the lower parts and the seal kit. As then you only pay for the freight one way. I know Peter has sent them to England on an exchange service before too. So the cost could not be that bad! Then you will find out how great these car are to drive.
Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 05:43 pm, by: Michael Crimp(Zen1953)
Hi Yuri, The suspension diagnostic test is described here: http://planetsoarer.com/UZZ32/uzz32active.htm Take your time and try not to be frustrated - I originally spent at least an hour looking for the diagnostic box and pulled lots of look a like boxes apart for nothing. So, open the bonnet (engine hood) and with you facing the motor look on the right hand side of the motor, locate the oil filler plug where you fill up with engine oil - not the dip stick_ and about 100mm directly to the left of it is a black box about 50mm x 25mm on top it says DIAGNOSTICS, I did feel a bit of an idiot not seeing that first. (Fortunately I have done tests that prove I'm not) There is a catch on the back, open it up. Then follow the directions from the link above. Also somewhere above this post in this thread is a link to a page that describes all the diagnostic error codes. When you have the codes describing the problem come back to us with them. If at first you appear to fail - keep doing it a few times. The laws of quantum mechanics say that everything is possible. Good Luck
Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 10:14 pm, by: Michael Crimp(Zen1953)
No You do not need anything else, Follow the directions: The error codes will show up in one of the panels at the bottom of the dash. You can take a digital camera or phone camera and photograph them as they show up.
I have just read these links and think that With this data and a really smart versatile mechanic with a serious workshop you might just be able to get the job done in Moscow. If your strut cylinders have not warped over the years and you could tell by putting a micrometer over them then the Toyota strut rebuild kits cost about US$600 for the four. If they have warped then that is another story and refer to my previous post about costs. Print them off and have them translated (www.bablefish.com is not bad site to do free translations) and show them to some mechanics.
Previous
