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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

Posts: 1068
Reg: 04-2006

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Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 09:16 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

After reading the workshop manuals and searching the forum I am now after first hand advice from you lot.

Has anyone replaced the rear wheel bearings themselves on the Soarer? I understand that a press is needed to get the bearing out/in, and I was hoping I could get the hubs to that stage, and then take it somewhere for them to complete the job. Has anybody done this?

I spent tonight poking around under the car. I can't get the half shafts out due to not being able to budge the 10mm hex nuts on the diff side. Do I absolutely need to remove the shafts? In the exploded diagrams it looks like the hub carrier should come off the end of the shaft once all the 'arms' are removed.

The second part of my query: Has anyone paid for a mechanic to replace their rear wheel bearings lately? I want to know what the cost would be. I have already purchased the bearings. ($139 per side)

I normally like to do as much work on the car as I can. I am just a little daunted by the sheer number of parts that need to be removed according to the workshop manual. (quite a few with "specialty tools")

I in the past I have done the turbos, water pump, timing belt etc so I can turn a spanner, but I have to admit I am a little clueless at this end of the car. Am I biting off more than I can chew? If it is not that hard and I'm being a big girl let me know and I'll find a can of HTFU, have a big drink and get on with it.
Matchy Loi
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VIC
GTT

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 12:10 am, by:  Matchy Loi (Ftk148) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm interested to find out too, i did half a day of reading today and didn't find out very much.

I'm having two different noises that seem to be coming from the front left wheel. I'm trying to figure out what it is and whether it's associated with the bearing as mine is apparently loose, says peddars.'

When coming to a gentle/moderate stop, i can hear a sort of 'rotating shuddering' noise.

And when moving i can hear a on-metal scratching noise, i can hear it up to about 40-50km if i listen really hard with the stereo off, no cars around in a neighbourhood street.
Tim Ross
TryHard
Qld
V8 - http://unique-rides.net

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 12:18 am, by:  Tim Ross (Retox) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Best way to get the allenhead bolts off the diff.... 10mm allen-head socket on a breaker bar.. with an extension bar if required and a bit of wd40 and elbow grease... becomes a peice of piss :-)
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 05:54 am, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 09:16 pm:

I'll find a can of HTFU, have a big drink and get on




i think this is needed..

it can not be that hard..

why are you pulling your shaft out?

i pretty sure there is a big nut on the end of the shaft that you undo then it will slide out..

dont quote me have not done it yet..but i will be

i would say you will need a press.. cheers
just come to my place and i help you..
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 06:00 am, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yes by the look of it, you only need to undo 4 bolts that hold the swingarms onto the rear hub, and also the driveshaft nut, which is under a little cover, out the outside of hub, dont un bolt of diff.. do not quote me on this as have not done it, but looking at the pic that is what has to be done cheers
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 06:34 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have both the short lexus manual, and the full workshop manual. The both say remove the halfshaft, then the handbrake components etc etc. I was hoping some one would tell me for sure that either you absolutely have to (and explain why), or you can simply pull the hub off with the shafts still attached to the diff.

I had to buy a 32mm socket on the way home from work. I'll have to have another look tonight.
Ken Tran
TryHard
NSW
Crazy japs did the mods

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 09:38 pm, by:  Ken Tran (King_qong) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It could be something else. I've had a mechanic who said my front wheel bearings were worn too. But after getting a second opinion from Niall Bond, he said that wheel bearings are very unlikely. For me it ended up being a worn tie rod. But who knows, maybe get a second opinion.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 10:43 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Too late.

On Michaels advice I hiked up my skirts and got down to business. I removed the half shaft, because Mr Toyota said so in his book, and followed the steps until I ran out of pullers and talent. See pic below. I need to purchase or make a puller to get that last sucker out. I also need to find an "allen key" big enough to undo the "hex nut" on the back of the hub assembly.
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Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Monday, December 08, 2008 - 04:20 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

OK. I need help. I cant for the life of me get the lower control arm joint undone. I broke one puller, and cant get any of my purchased ones to get a bite.

I made a puller that fit, but unfortunately the joint holds better than my welding.

The Toyota SST (specialist tools) states a pitman arm puller is used, but the picture of it looks like no pitman arm puller I've seen before.

I'm getting desperate. At the moment I am stuck...do I keep trying, or call it quits and try putting it all back together and taking it to a mechanic(and having him charge me for hours and hours of trying to get the same damn thing off). The car has been off the road over a week and its killing me.
Matt Petersen
TryHard
NA
V8

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Monday, December 08, 2008 - 05:23 pm, by:  Matt Petersen (Mattmannz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Two options I have used in the past :-

1) Beat on the inside edge of the cast hub assembly where the ball joint slides through. You want the face that is normally pointing directly in to the centre of the vehicle. I normally do this with the suspension in place as it is impossible to hold the hub whilst you beat on it.

2) Use a pickle fork and grease it up and slide it between the hub assembly and the joint.

I haven't had to do a rear arm yet but the principles should be the same as the front arms which I have done on the Soarer and many other vehicles.

Matt.
Stuart Smith
TryHard
NEW SOUTH WALES
SC400 V8 GT LIMITED Proper Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

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Monday, December 08, 2008 - 06:21 pm, by:  Stuart Smith (Leader428) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben,
Can you leave the arm attached to the hub and remove the other end of the arm from the cradle?
Michael Crimp
TryHard
QUEENSLAND
V8 UZZ32

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Monday, December 08, 2008 - 06:52 pm, by:  Michael Crimp (Zen1953) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,
Forgive me if i'm on the wrong track here.
I assume that the bearings are stuck. they are probably pressed in using tons of pressure i.e. more power than you can get at home with a puller, wrench and hammer so if you take the bits that are stuck and the bits you need to go back in to a Bearing Specialist, Engineering workshop or Truck repair shop and beg, plead poverty and ignorance tell then you are out of your depth. It will probably take them 10 minutes to pull the old one out and press a new one in - without the proper equipment you may not ever be able to prize them apart and put them back in without breaking something. I have been down your street before with other projects and ignorant mechanics who did not want to let something beat them. BUT did not know they were beaten. ( Also I was paying )
Good Luck
Daryl Demarte
Tinkerer
Victoria
IS300 & UZZ32

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Monday, December 08, 2008 - 08:23 pm, by:  Daryl Demarte (Helieng) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben,

put the nut back on the thread of the ball joint,so that the nut and thread are flush (protection of thread), and with a good quality puller, put pressure on the end of nut/ball joint, then with a suitable sized hammer against one side as a back up, give the other side of the control arm where the joint goes through a decent blow. Remember one good blow is better than a dozen light taps. If you still have no luck, using a heat gun (hot air), carefully heat the side of the arm, then do the above again. Be careful not to get the ball joint too hot as you might melt the rubber cover. A little heat sometimes does wonders.
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland / Gold coast
jzs147 93 TT / uzz30 93'/

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 11:33 am, by:  Lew Radbourn (Marlew) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben
Just take the lower control arm off at the other end that way you won't damage any thing
When you fit up the bearings make sure your HUB were the inner race of your bearings sit are in good condition.
I have seen a few that have damaged the shaft area and the bearing slop around like a cock in a shirt sleeve if it does mate throw it out and replace it .
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 03:52 pm, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ben where do you live? i might be able to come help cheers. i hate seeing people stuck
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 06:15 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Stuart Smith wrote on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 06:21 pm:

Ben,
Can you leave the arm attached to the hub and remove the other end of the arm from the cradle?




I thought of this and discarded it when I realised I throw out the settings etc- just one more thing I'd then have to get done.


Daryl Demarte wrote on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 08:23 pm:

then with a suitable sized hammer against one side as a back up, give the other side of the control arm where the joint goes through a decent blow




I resorted to this....and got it off. Yippee.


Michael Crimp wrote on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 06:52 pm:

Forgive me if i'm on the wrong track here.


yep, you're on the wrong track, but you are forgiven. I will be taking the hub to get the bearing pressed out/in, though.


Lew Radbourn wrote on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 11:33 am:

When you fit up the bearings make sure your HUB were the inner race of your bearings sit are in good condition.
I have seen a few that have damaged the shaft area and the bearing slop around like a cock in a shirt sleeve if it does mate throw it out and replace it .




This has me concerned, as the hub shaft(correct name?) where the bearing sits has a fair bit of "etching". I expected a nice smoth surface. That will go with the hub carrier for an expert opinion. Once I put the boys down(too sleep!) I'll go out and get a picture of it.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 06:17 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Actually I just re read your post Lew. That description is a little too accurate. It is probably rewted.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 06:37 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Picture (snuck out while he was having a bottle)


Upload


I should add that the inner race easily slips on and off the shaft, yet the outer is on there pretty tight.

Anyone got a part number and price for a replacement?
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 07:29 pm, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

it just aint getting any easier for you now is it, i will be doing mine, along with new disc and pads and handbrake pads. while i at it then it is right
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 08:57 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Michael Keen wrote on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 07:29 pm:

it just aint getting any easier for you now is it



Nope! But if it was easy, everyone would be doing it and I wouldn't get that 'special' feeling.

Thanks for the offer of helping too. I figured Bathurst to Singleton is a bit of a drive to work on someones car. When it comes time to do yours, if there is anything you want to know...

...although as a mechanic your playbook is significantly thicker than mine.
Mark Donovan
TryHard
Auckland
V8 Limited

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 06:11 am, by:  Mark Donovan (Mark_donovan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Are any of these parts interchangeable with Supra parts (bearings, hubs etc) ?
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 06:45 am, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ben Lipman wrote on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 08:57 pm:

I figured Bathurst to Singleton is a bit of a drive to work on someones car




yeah that pushing it too much ehehe..

well, at least your having a go. it amazing what a glass of that special stuff can do ? now was it half full? or full
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland / Gold coast
jzs147 93 TT / uzz30 93'/

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 08:35 am, by:  Lew Radbourn (Marlew) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Throw that one Ben she is no good
and don't use a locktite or any thing like that on it it is plain and simple screwed
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 06:09 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Lew Radbourn wrote on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 08:35 am:

Throw that one Ben she is no good
and don't use a locktite or any thing like that on it it is plain and simple screwed




You are a man of many words Lew. I have sent a request to castle hill toyota for a new hub, and oil seals. Strange I did not hear back from them this arvo, as they are usually pretty fast. I have a local guy who is happy to press the bearings in and out and fit the seals etc. He finishes up next Friday, so I hope CHT get a wriggle on.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 06:11 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Mark Donovan wrote on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 06:11 am:

Are any of these parts interchangeable with Supra parts (bearings, hubs etc) ?


I believe it is the exact same assembly. The bearings have the same part number according to CBC.
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 09:43 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Righto. It's done. What a bastard job. And expensive.

New Bearing $130
New hub + 2x oil seals $288
Pay Toyota to press out old bearings, press in new bearings, and fit oil seals $105
Total $523, and a load of my labour.

To make matters worse, I went for a test drive, and the noise was horrible. Turned out that I'd bent the backing plate in my travels. Easy fixed, but a horror feeling before I figured out what had happened.

time
Mark Donovan
TryHard
Auckland
V8 Limited

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Wednesday, December 17, 2008 - 08:19 am, by:  Mark Donovan (Mark_donovan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks, Ben. Good to know.
Michael Keen
Goo Roo
nsw
Soarer TT

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Wednesday, December 17, 2008 - 08:28 pm, by:  Michael Keen (Spoilt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

well i glad you got the job done mate.. about time, maybe next time bigger cup na good work, it good to see people have a go well done..

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