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  Soarer Central * Suspension * How to fix this? Rear Subframe Issue Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 435
Reg: 05-2008

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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 01:55 pm, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I was checking up on my rear swaybar because of some squeaking noise I was hearing. Upon further investigation I found that this had happened...


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Which resulted in this...


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Showed the pictures to a couple of panel shops which didn't seem interested in the prices they were quoting me to fix it.

Any ideas on what needs to be done to fix the damage in the 2nd pic, specifically from a welding perspective? Any advice/ideas are much appreciated.
Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
UZZ31

Posts: 3640
Reg: 09-2007

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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 02:06 pm, by:  Ali Saeed (Ali) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

it would be better if you got a second hand rear subframe, probably cheaper too. supra subframe should work too
Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 06:14 pm, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Its not the bush I'm concerned with as I have a replacement for it. I would like to know how to tackle getting the damage in the second pic fixed as it is to the underbody of the car, not the rear subframe itself. I was thinking that it will require that portion being cut out and having a plate welded in its place, but I'm not sure really how to go about it.
Matthew Smith
Tinkerer
WA
vvti turbo

Posts: 38
Reg: 06-2011

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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 08:30 pm, by:  Matthew Smith (Alien_racing) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thats pretty much exactly what you have to do.

I would anyway. put it up on ramps and bend a piece of flat bar in to a "c" channel that fits nicely around the damaged area and depending on how thick the steel is, either drill and tap the steel plate or weld nuts to the other side before you weld to the body. You would have to be delicate welding it in though as it would need to be gently stitched in.

well thats my 2 cents



and now im broke
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Beast

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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 09:40 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Hakan Pasha wrote on Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 01:55 pm:

Showed the pictures to a couple of panel shops which didn't seem interested in the prices they were quoting me to fix it.


Or they're actually trying to make a living as well as paying their overheads and bills.

I'd expect somewhere around the $600 mark to fix that.

Needs to be cleaned up, Re-inforced/plated on the inside (outside will affect the alignment of the anti-roll bar) Captive nuts attached and a new subframe mount fitted.

Lots of work to fix properly. (I can't remember if you can access the back of the area or not, but if not then it's going to cost more)

I'm guessing you don't have the equipment and/or knowledge to repair this yourself which leaves you with two options.
1/ Pay to have it repaired.
2/ Scrap the car.
David Grima
Goo Roo
WA
1JZ-GTE TT

Posts: 1216
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Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 09:59 pm, by:  David Grima (Maltezr) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Hakan Pasha wrote on Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 01:55 pm:

Showed the pictures to a couple of panel shops which didn't seem interested in the prices they were quoting me to fix it.




so Hakan did they end up giving you a price? real shame that it left that much damage, good luck with it all mate, hopefully you get it fixed with not too much dramas...
Ali Saeed
Goo Roo
WA
UZZ31

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Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 06:49 am, by:  Ali Saeed (Ali) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

time to run without a sway bar.
Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 437
Reg: 05-2008

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Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 05:20 pm, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Matt. I'll see what I can do.

David, I got three quotes ranging from $400 to $2160. I'll see how I go and get back with an update/results.

In the meantime keep those ideas/advices coming.
Andy Losurdo
TryHard
NSW
v8 quad cam

Posts: 117
Reg: 02-2007

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Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 07:16 pm, by:  Andy Losurdo (Funny_guy77syd) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

just give me some dimensions ill be more then happy to lazer cut u some plates u can use to weld on there, casue its a comon problem and may as well help out every other soarer driver out there
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Beast

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Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 07:31 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Ali Saeed wrote on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 06:49 am:

time to run without a sway bar.


It's the rear subframe mount, Ali, not the sway bar.

I only expect it to be a problem if someone leaves 2 of the bolts out.
David Henderson
TryHard
Nsw
TT

Posts: 265
Reg: 08-2007

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Monday, August 29, 2011 - 07:30 am, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have seen a soarer with similar damage. The captive nuts weren't gone though.

To repair, you could use a plate about 4-6mm thick with bolts welded to the inside, box the rail up. The sheet metal there has 3 layers and can be peeled back and stiched with a Tig.

you will also need a spacer for the other side so the subframe bracket is the same distance from the rail.

You won't need a new subframe if yours isn't bent
Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 438
Reg: 05-2008

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Monday, August 29, 2011 - 08:28 pm, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andy that's great! PM sent.

David, the subframe is fine only the damage you see above. Will take that all on board, thanks again.
David Henderson
TryHard
Nsw
TT

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Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 06:18 pm, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No worries. If you get some dimensions to Andy to lasercut (Awesome offer too btw andy!) any half decent workshop with a welder will be able to do it in no time.
Allan Langford
DieHard
Vic
UZZ31

Posts: 533
Reg: 05-2010

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Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 07:33 am, by:  Allan Langford (Allan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

wonder if the car has had a hit up the ass or slammed a wheel into a gutter at some point?
Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 439
Reg: 05-2008

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Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 10:53 am, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Allan Langford wrote on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 07:33 am:

wonder if the car has had a hit up the ass or slammed a wheel into a gutter at some point?



I don't think so as I checked it over and didn't see any signs of damage from a collision. Also had the Pedders suspension check and there were no problems other than worn bushes
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31

Posts: 1900
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Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 12:45 pm, by:  Phil Gibson (Sciflyer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I too would be thinking its had a hit at some point, there is no logical reason for the rear subframe mount to fail like that.

What does happen is the rubber bush inside the mount sags, but that would not cause this problem
Hakan Pasha
TryHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 440
Reg: 05-2008

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Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 01:24 pm, by:  Hakan Pasha (Hakanpasha) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Phil Gibson wrote on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 12:45 pm:

I too would be thinking its had a hit at some point, there is no logical reason for the rear subframe mount to fail like that.

What does happen is the rubber bush inside the mount sags, but that would not cause this problem



There would be evident damage leading up to that point of the car had there been a collision.

My theory is that rather than being hit, a twisting action was applied to the subframe, most probably caused when going over a speed hump/driveway on an angle to avoid scraping the bumper.
David Henderson
TryHard
Nsw
TT

Posts: 269
Reg: 08-2007

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Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 02:14 pm, by:  David Henderson (Hendo) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've heard it is to do with bolts loosening over time, the bracket then self destructs. Saw one at a wreckers with one bolt still attached, bracket ripped in half the same as Hakans, looked like one bolt had come loose ant the other was in the process of working its way out. No rear end damage on the car at all

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