| Author |
Message |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6564
Reg: 03-2006
|
Hey , Have a grinding noise that also sounds squeaky coming from rear of car . Consistent with speed , noise gets faster as car moves , and slows down when stopping .
Noise sounds lie pads on metal , but on a warped rotor sound . IE not consistent 100% but like if the disc was warped and has a HIGH SPOT that is what is catching or grinding .
Sounds like a train , ch ch ch ch ch ch , gets faster and slower until stopped .
Pads have lots of life left, but wonderinf if it could be wheel bearing related >? '
IM leaning towards stuffed rotors and PADS are 6 yrs old , could also be a rock inside the dust shield >
Just looking for more info before i tackle it on the weekend .
Any thoughts would be great . |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 6519
Reg: 10-2005
|
If its not changing under braking, sounds like a wheel bearing to me - but hopefully something simpler like a sticking calliper slide or a stone... I'd start by checking the calliper movement. |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6566
Reg: 03-2006
|
Yeah thanks , will be checking them on saturday . Rotors look affected by heat , some glazing and hot spots , noticed 1 crack today .
I removed the wheels last night and the passenger side is a little more noisier to rotate than driver side , but i know the rotors look shot , so might change them out anyways as they need it , and help eliminate things .
Wheel bearings easy to change on these or PITA ? |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6570
Reg: 03-2006
|
It almost sounds like a slipping belt or stuffed bearing on a pulley , but is definately coming from the rear . |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 6522
Reg: 10-2005
|
New rotors are always a good investment. Got to do mine shortly - still enough beef left in them, but they are glazed and grooved looking.
You'll probably need a press to change the wheel bearings - most modern cars do. I'd just remove the hubs myself and take them to a workshop for them to press the old bearings out and press the new ones in. I always do them both sides on the theory that if one side is gone, the other might not be far behind. Never done a Soarer, so I don't know what kind of price the new bearings are - but not cheap would be my guess. |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 6523
Reg: 10-2005
|
Hmm, hopefully its nothing to do with the diff - does it change at all under load or overrun? |
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8
Posts: 908
Reg: 08-2005
|
from your description of the rotors, you are looking at the problem!! |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6573
Reg: 03-2006
|
Doesnt change under load , like a diff would .
Just starts off and gets faster as speed is increased . Almost sounds like a noisy tensioner bearing |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3143
Reg: 07-2005
|
I'm guessing the sliding pins on the rear calipers are seized up, causing the pad to be held against the rotor. |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6575
Reg: 03-2006
|
Thanks Dan , thats the same answer the old man gave me too . Will pull em apart and regrease them , havent been done in a while .
Would explain how it goes away for a short period and returns for a while . |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6580
Reg: 03-2006
|
So , Removed both rear calipers and regreased the pins . Also changed the diff Oil while i was at it .
Neither has helped . Noise is becoming louder 
Im starting to lean towards the diff maybe ? I know when my last one went oit went bang and was clunk clunk ... Almost sounds like a real bad slipping fan belt squeal with some grind , but on rotation ... ** ** ** speed related .
Maybe i just need to jack the car up on stands remove the rear wheels and put it in drive and listen maybe ???
Anyways . Back to the drawing board . |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'91 UZZ30, '91 manual UZZ31 track bunky, '94 blk/blk UZZ31
Posts: 1947
Reg: 07-2005
|
handbrake shoes/mechanism... |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6581
Reg: 03-2006
|
Oh Yeah , Forgot the handbrakes on these things are old school drum types ...
Thanks Phil , next thing on the list  |
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8
Posts: 914
Reg: 08-2005
|
did you change the rotors???? |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 6586
Reg: 03-2006
|
Not yet .
Does it forward but not in reverse ...... Cornering makes a difference to the noise as well , turn left noise gets quieter , turn right makes it noisier .
The saga continues . WIll try to get to it this weekend , busy with kids atm , baby and mrs in hospital ( tests ) and lookin after 3 yr old at the moment , makes it hard , hehe . |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3038
Reg: 04-2006
|
Sounds like rear wheel bearing. Makes a horrible racket. SOmetimes is worse when turning one way but better the other.
Yes they are a pain in the arse to change. You need to dissassamble half the rear end to get them out. Doable on your shed floor, but you will need to take the hubs to someone with a press to fit the new bearing.
I'll bet if it is a bearing, it is the left one. In 20 years of driving, I have never had a right one go. My theory is the left cops all the pot holes, the worst of the road camber, and all the dust from the side of the road. |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3199
Reg: 07-2005
|
I had a mate with this recently. Tightened up his wheelnuts and the noise went away. |
Oki Zoubari
Tinkerer
south australia
uzz32
Posts: 56
Reg: 03-2010
|
Hi Daniel, not sure about what sort of noise it is, but I had a banging noise a while back and it was getting louder as I accelerate, it turned out to be paint layer between the wheel contacts and the hub.
It was paint from the time I painted the calipers and hubs, sanding the contacts and removing that paint which was probably causing the wheels to wobble and cause the noise which I thought was diff or accumulators.
maybe you don't have paint , but it might be good to clean contact points on the wheel/hub and torque the wheel lugs to specs. |
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8
Posts: 929
Reg: 08-2005
|
Oki.s comments have jolted my memory. I have seen where loosening and then retightening the hub bolts has fixed the problem. they are very tight, you may have to go to a mechanics and get it done with a rattle gun for a couple of $$$ |
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler
Posts: 3208
Reg: 07-2005
|
Don't use a rattle gun. Overtorquing the wheelnuts will just cause the studs to break and the wheel to fall off.
Tighten them to the correct torque. |
Tom Richards
DieHard
nsw
V8
Posts: 932
Reg: 08-2005
|
rattle gun to loosen. you will be lucky to loosen them without a gun |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 6544
Reg: 10-2005
|
Torque setting should be quite high on the torque wrench - I use 120 N/m - not sure what the actual factory recommendation is - probably slightly higher.
In any case Impact wrenches typically aren't very adjustable, and even a mid sized one will probably over-torque the nuts on even its lowest setting. |
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31
Posts: 12267
Reg: 11-2004
|
If the above posts are relevant, then it's most likely that the wheels need - but don't have - the proper spigot rings.
Very naughty if that is the case! |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3077
Reg: 04-2006
|
Specified Torque setting for the wheel nuts is 76Nm. A lot less than you might think. |
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
SA
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car
Posts: 3078
Reg: 04-2006
|
Sorry, that should be 76 lbft, about 103 Nm. |
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