Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 06:51 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I got a fairly cheap 2 ton jack that came with two stands at a Repco sale many years ago - I think it was under $100 & it's still going strong around 10 years later - I'd really like to upgrade to a fancy professional one with more lift, but it does the job.
I'd recommend getting a little bottle jack for the boot if your scissor jack is no good - they are much easier to use in a roadside situation, and you can also make use of them for doing things like jacking the transmission etc. if you are working on it.
Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 08:58 am, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
You can use a screw driver to wind up the jack if the other bit is missing.If you haven't figure that out I don't recommend you go playing with the rods. By the way have you got a proper thingie to remove the wheel? The little thing they give you will give you a hernia trying to remove them wheel nuts.
Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 11:19 am, by: Eric Lam(Bluemonkey)
@ Vincent. hahahaha no i dont have the thingie (the electic gun thing?) to unscrew...The mechanic made it look so easy...
The little thinging, is that the cross bar?
So you are saying that I will have to have the chassis held up while I work on the rods, rather than have the car sitting on the hoist resting on the wheels?
one day sooner or later I will have to get my own hands dirty playing with stuff... unless I can find a decent mechanic up here in Newcastle who knows the soarer inside out, or catch up with someone who can show me the ropes.....
until now no one has given me any suggestions as to if there are any up here in Newcastle :|
Nevertheless I appreciate all info that I have been able to source from here and other soarer forums
Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 12:30 pm, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
If your car is up on a hoist then you can get to the rods without removing the wheel.
If you are doing it at home then you will have to jack it up and remove the wheel unless you are a tiny midget and can crawl underneath.
I find it difficult to loosen the wheel nuts using the small wheel brace that comes with the jack. Those air (not electric) thingie sure put those nuts on real tight.
All you really need to do is find a good mechanic you don't really need a brain surgeon.
Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 07:32 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Ugh, I never go back to a tyre shop that uses a rattle gun to put my wheels on. Several times in the last few years I've stopped to help get someone's wheel off after they have had a flat and some moron has over tightened the wheels! And the idiots who don't even bother finger starting them first and cross thread them...
Any decent tyre technician should use a torque wrench.
Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 08:44 am, by: Jonathan Chen(Youbet)
Hi, Can anyone please help, It started last Friday, my UZZ31 passenger site suspension suddenly go very low when I park the car but when I start the engine, the pump will pump it back to normal, I can still drive the car but I am afraid this will cause further damage to the air bag. Is there something I need to check before take the car to a mechanic? Many Thanks
Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 10:35 am, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
Matthew, I am afraid nearly all tyre shops use the rattle gun. I have to buy a long wheel wrench to remove my wheel nuts. They sell one that is retractable. The longer the handle the easier it is to loosen the nuts.
Friday, March 16, 2012 - 11:13 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Vincent Chan wrote on Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 10:35 am:
I am afraid nearly all tyre shops use the rattle gun.
Tell me about it! The guy I used to go to closed down a few weeks ago, but I found another crowd who use a torque wrench by luck. Mind you, they are also pushing nitrogen fill, which is off putting as its snake oil - but I think they genuinely believe it does something useful on a road car.
Friday, March 16, 2012 - 12:48 pm, by: Vincent Chan(Vincent191)
Matthew, the snake charmers are saying nitrogen atoms are bigger and therefore harder to escape through the tyre walls and therefore you don't have to check your tyre pressure so often.
One must have money burning a hole in the pocket to believe that crap. Normal air is free and it is 70% ?? nitrogen anyway.
Monday, March 19, 2012 - 06:48 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Vincent Chan wrote on Friday, March 16, 2012 - 12:48 pm:
One must have money burning a hole in the pocket to believe that crap. Normal air is free and it is 70% ?? nitrogen anyway.
Yeah, 80% N2 approximately I think - and if the "air" (mostly O2 so I would have thought larger than N2?) does leak out then if you keep pumping it up won't you end up with close to 100% nitrogen anyway? I didn't bother arguing with him as he was offering the fill free with the new tyres, AND he had a good price.
Actually, thinking about it, oxygen an atomic number of 8, while Nitrogen has an atomic number of 7 - its also slightly lighter, and they both have an s & a p valance shell - so I can't see any way a nitrogen atom could be larger than an oxygen atom - or N2 could be larger than O2. Maybe a more chemistry minded person could illuminate?
Monday, March 19, 2012 - 06:50 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Peter Williams wrote on Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 07:23 am:
Nitrogen doesn't expand with heat like free air does, so tyre pressure doesn't vary. Good for track use, can't see the point in a road car.
Exactly, in a aeroplane tyre or a high performance track tyre that experience rapid frequent changes in temperature and massive electrostatic changes, it's probably useful to have 100% nitrogen for several reasons - but in my car tyre I'm not going to notice anything, ever.
Monday, March 19, 2012 - 11:28 am, by: Eric Lam(Bluemonkey)
Aha... Lol one of my friends was telling me about Nitrogen gas in the tyres a few days ago...
Driving back from syd last night, where teh road was a little rougher, the suspension got up... then when it hit the smoother sections, I could feel it starting to sag to a nice couchy feel... grrr...
Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 11:00 am, by: Eric Lam(Bluemonkey)
Ok despite former warnings I think I have shorted something in the suspension control system
My suspension has had been having some problems leveling properly....So I switched the system off in the boot.
I have been setting the heights manually through using the 2 pieces of wire and through the pin config bit in the lower left corner of the boot...
Last night, I was trying to raise the rear's a little due to a full tank of petrol causing it to sit a little too far down.
had the car running, I plugged the first wire into 1 (batt) and 4 (rear right), then I plug the tip of the other wire into 1(batt) and in horror accidentally pushed the other end of the tip into 8 (earth).
the car is still running, but now if i plug the tip into the correct positions 1+4, 1+7, the pump does not operate... neither does it release the air pressure if i put 1+6
I restarted the car etc but still didnt work.
does this mean that I have shorted something? and if that is the case what would I have to change?
If I use the normal switch (left side of boot near the top), the pump still runs and raises the rears... and I have to pull the inlet hoses near the valves right of the fuel tank to release the pressure.
Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 10:25 am, by: Eric Lam(Bluemonkey)
Some updates.
So with the previous post, I managed to sort it out. It is just a fused fuse in the driver side footwell. Replaced fused and it is ok again.
Have recently swapped out both rear suspension height sensors (Thanks to Daniel for supplying).
Car's over-pumping issues seem to have gone for now. Responding well to changes in weight (eg more or less people in the car, the pump vents or pumps). Normal and High settings does change the height.
However, it seems the rear are still about 1-2cm higher than what I would like it to be so maybe it is time for rod adjustments.
I did try to untwist the nuts on the rods before but it wont budge
Have also made some prototype of relay switch to plug into the rear manual height adjustment port so that I can now manually set my heights via switches rather than having to plug wirepins in. Will have some images up after everything is finalised and set up.
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