| Author |
Message |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1424
Reg: 07-2005
|
Hi guys,
Just wondering if anyone wants to give me a quick rundown on dropping the box and pulling out the clutch and flywheel? Need to get my clutch rebuilt and pressure plate resprung, and have a JUN lightened flywheel to go in with the new combo as well.
I've done a couple of clutches before, specifically a mini and an EH holden, and we put the clutch in and box on when I did the manual conversion to the Soarer about 15 months ago - but that was with the engine out of the car, and under the car becomes a slightly different story. My old man has also done numerous clutches - but again, on 60s and 70s era cars, not specifically the Soarer.
I know I need to disconnect the tailshaft at the joint so as to leave the yoke in the box (and thus not have to drain it), and I know I need to start by taking the starter motor off, then undoing the two bolts on the box and working my way round. Also have a clutch alignment tool when it comes time to slotting it all back in.
Just wanting to know the correct order of steps, any hints/tips, etc, in order to create the least heartache and take me the least time. I know I'm capable of doing it, but would just prefer to have those little tips that take getting the box off and clutch out from a 3-hour job down to a 1-hour job, as it'll be me and the old man pulling it out tonight *before dinner* so I can get the clutch to the workshop tomorrow morning  |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1425
Reg: 07-2005
|
Do I need to use brand new flywheel bolts every time I take the flywheel off? |
Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(
Posts: 5804
Reg: 05-2005
|
It would be prudent to do so Shane  |
Troy Tappenden
TryHard
WA
JZZ30 (TT)
Posts: 385
Reg: 07-2005
|
Best advice I can give you is to put a jack under the back of the gearbox. Remove the Gearbox Crossmember and slowly lower the rear of the gearbox that is on the jack.
Once that is done, use about 3 or 4 (Possibly more) extensions on a ratchet and you can now easily get to the top 2 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine, rather than trying to get the bolts out from the top with all the wires and firewall and stuff in the way.
This way you can get the bolts out in minutes, rather than hours!
Once they are undone, centre the jack, pull the other Bellhousing - Engine bolts out and the gearbox will slide out (With everything else taken orff, i.e. starter motor, gear shift, wiring)
Best of luck! |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1426
Reg: 07-2005
|
GRRRRRRR!!!!!!!
Who wants to tell me how the •••• to get the frikken top starter-motor bolt out!!!!! GRRRRRRR!!!!!! 
And yes, I am writing this at 11pm having just spent the best part of 2 hours trying to get that one bolt cracked.
Troy - I see what you mean with your tip on jacking the box down to get some angle. Would have worked a treat if it wasnt for the muthaf&*king top starter motor bolt  |
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland
jzs147 92 / 95 jzz31 98' / jzz30 ute92' / uzz30 93'/ 2 X uzz31 92' s
Posts: 1829
Reg: 07-2005
|
uni socket with a 3 foot extension bar 3/8 drive socket set |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1427
Reg: 07-2005
|
ahhhh....UNI SOCKET.....time to head back to my friendly Auto One... |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1428
Reg: 07-2005
|
Cheers Lew!!! Much appeciated!!!!  |
Troy Tappenden
TryHard
WA
JZZ30 (TT)
Posts: 388
Reg: 07-2005
|
Best of luck Shane!
Other tips I can spare you are:
Hold your tongue in the right place
Swearing helps... A lot...
If you feel the need to kick or punch the car, you won't figure out the problem. Best to go and have a sit down, a cold drink and a smoke. When you come back, I will bet you figure it out quickly (Whatever the problem may be). Basically, your brain stops working properly wen you are mad.
Good luck! |
Neil Griffiths
Trader
NSW
212Kw @ 8psi MANUAL Super Charged UZZ31
Posts: 3598
Reg: 07-2005
|
Also easier if you lower the rear of the Trans |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1430
Reg: 07-2005
|
Yeah, Neil, had done that one. It was the lack of a uni-socket that proved to be the main source of my troubles. Amazing how easily a job can be done with the right tools
On the plus side, I have now extended my toolbox to include a 2-foot and 3-foot extender bar, a stubby 1/2" ratchet, and a uni-socket.
Clutch is out, and looked like this:
I'd say she's got a bit hot... |
Troy Tappenden
TryHard
WA
JZZ30 (TT)
Posts: 393
Reg: 07-2005
|
From this angle it doesn't look like the clutch pads are terribly worn, but, yes, it does look like there has been some slipping and it has got a tad hot  |
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland
jzs147 92 / 95 jzz31 98' / jzz30 ute92' / uzz30 93'/ 2 X uzz31 92' s
Posts: 1835
Reg: 07-2005
|
Shane;
No worries mate
i learnt from the great man him self.
it makes life so easy when you have a 3 footer.heheheheheheh |
Neil Griffiths
Trader
NSW
212Kw @ 8psi MANUAL Super Charged UZZ31
Posts: 3605
Reg: 07-2005
|
Spend the $$ and get these from Snap On
14mm on its own Uni and a 17mm on its own Uni both is 3/8".
BLACK 4 Foot Extension 3/8" Male 1/2" Female
Looks like 2 factors there.
Low Clamping Pressure in the Pressure plate.
Driver riding the clutch. |
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland
jzs147 92 / 95 jzz31 98' / jzz30 ute92' / uzz30 93'/ 2 X uzz31 92' s
Posts: 1839
Reg: 07-2005
|
hahahahaha
4 foot long and 1/8" of play  |
Shane Ilich
Goo Roo
W.A.
Manual Single T
Posts: 1431
Reg: 07-2005
|
Yeah, Neil, Ross at Autoclutch said although the pressure plate HAD been modified, it was still only clamping at around 1700 - for my sort of power (~350rwhp) he would prefer to have it clamping at 2000 minimum. He's currently respringing it to be up around the 2200 mark. |
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