Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 12:09 pm, by: Phil Stuart(Ericdog)
Hi Guys,
Have done a little searching here for a similar problem, but mainly find that people experience this type of thing after doing other changes to their car.
Basically, if I do a gentle start from standing, all seems fine, it changes to 2nd at reasonably normal revs. However, if I want to do a bit of a "put the boot in" start from standing, it will rev right out to ~6000 RPM, hesitates slightly, then seems to slowly "droop" into 2nd. The rest of the gears and changes are fine (2nd 3rd + O/D).
The interesting thing is that when its revving out in 1st, there isn't a great deal of boost (maybe 2 to 4 PSI) and none of that usual "force you back in your seat" that my last soarer, and this one had earlier on when I bought it.
Its almost like the gearbox is slipping in 1st (and not transferring all of the engines power to the load (rear wheels)), but its fine in all other gears. For info, and as a reference, it used to easily do rear wheel spin when taking off with "the boot in". There is no hope of it doing that now.
Mine is a fully standard 91TT (121000km), standard 10PSI boost, although, it does have an exhaust leak where the pipe just enters the first (larger) catalytic converter. A whole new exhaust system is being fitted tomorrow (Friday 07/12/07)
I notice that the transmission fluid level is quite high when checked cold.
while I'm an electronics specialist, and am ok with mechanical things, I haven't played with auto gearboxes...
Any constructive ideas as to what may be going on? Is it worth changing the transmission fluid?
Just for interests sake, I had the car put on a dyno, and it peaked 145kW at 88KPH at 5000 RPM and the guy running the dyno said that it was the second car that he had done that wanted to jump off the dyno ! The idea of the dyno test was so I can go back after doing some work (first, new exhaust, then boost to 14PSI with a zener across the MAP sensor and then an FMIC (http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkrcooler.htm.), if they are any good.
It makes you think that auto gearboxes are lossy creatures, considering that the motor (according to specs I found on this site) is producing 205kW, 60 is being lost somewhere, provided that engine and "at the road" kW aren't like car audio watts, and totally ambiguous!!!.
Thursday, December 06, 2007 - 08:00 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
I would suggest doing a transmission service. Drop old fluid, do a flush and install new fluid to the correct level.. I have heard that overfilling these boxes can be detrimental ( something about too much oil retaining heat in the pan).
Could also be linked to the exhaust leak. I would update after the exhaust is done.
Friday, December 07, 2007 - 03:50 pm, by: Braden Murdoch(Ribfeast)
Pull the codes on the ECU and see if it has logged a code. Definitely do a flush. Make sure you check the trans fluid level with the car in park, engine idling, and warmed up (5-10km drive).
Dyno it in 3rd if it wants to jump off, WOT at 115kph.
Phil Stuart Tinkerer NSW Soarer 1x TT JZZ30, 1 x RAV4 and a pork chop
Thursday, January 17, 2008 - 01:18 pm, by: Phil Stuart(Ericdog)
Thanks for the pointers guys.
I've had the new exhaust replaced, and raised the boost to about 13-14PSI, now its 165kW. I noticed that this time they dyno'ed it, they did it with the o/d off (3rd as Braden suggests)
I will now do a transmission flush. I understand that you need about 12 litres of fluid to do it?
As far as the new fluid is concerned, I read that you should use "toyota type IV".. Is that just a toyota rating, or a fluid that I have to buy from a toyota place? Are there suitable quality fluids available from places such as repco etc?
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