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  Soarer Central * Transmission * Auto not pulling? * Archive through August 02, 2007 Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Hayden Miller
Tinkerer
QLD
Soarer TT

Posts: 29
Reg: 02-2006

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Friday, June 09, 2006 - 08:38 am, by:  Hayden Miller (Zero) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey guys.... i seem to be having all sorts of problems with my auto box in my 91 TT.

To begin with im getting the "ect / od off" error code turning on after 3 minuets of driving.
However more concerning is that when im stationary and i move the selector into drive the car doesn’t begin to roll itself forward, this has only started to occur recently and doesn’t happen all the time however i fear its a sign of something pretty bad. If it does pull its self forward its at a really slow rate. Reverse is fine however.

I have done a transmission flush which seemed to smooth the shifting out a bit however the problem still remains.

I should also note... whilst its probably un-related on the odd occasion recently, early in the morning while the car is still cold I drive to the round-about at the top of my hill and the car cuts out.... it basically just stalls, it doesn’t choke and splutter, it just turns off... could this have anything to do with it?

Any ideas?
Daniel Clarke
TryHard
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 277
Reg: 03-2006

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Friday, June 09, 2006 - 10:47 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

These motors dont like to be run whillst too cold. ALways best to warm them up as they have a fail safe in the ecu that when the temperature is till cold, if the ecu detects too much boost while cold, it will cut out ( Correct me if im wrong someone as this is what iw as told, not that i have experienced it) Its a failsafe to stop extreme wear and tear on an unwarmed up engine.
Hayden Miller
Tinkerer
QLD
Soarer TT

Posts: 35
Reg: 02-2006

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Friday, June 09, 2006 - 12:47 pm, by:  Hayden Miller (Zero) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

good point daniel... altho i do give it a minute or so before i drive off and even then i dont take it over 2500rpm till the temp gauge hits half way. how long is a good warm up?

anyone have any ideas regarding my first problem?
Ryan Rankovic
DieHard
Victoria
Soarer TT GT-TL

Posts: 632
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, June 09, 2006 - 01:08 pm, by:  Ryan Rankovic (Ryan1j) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

if the car doesn't roll forward, maybe adjust the accelerator cable?
Brendon Watt
Tinkerer
Qld
UZZ32 and TT

Posts: 16
Reg: 08-2005

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Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 08:28 am, by:  Brendon Watt (Brendonwatt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do the transmission error test and see what codes you get. Maybe a solenoid has stopped working and its not going into 1st gear?
Mark Paddick
Goo Roo
ACT
UZZ31 V8 Soarer , JZZ30 TT Soarer

Posts: 2445
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 07:54 pm, by:  Mark Paddick (Sparks) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Almost certainly a faulty solenoid. The flashing O/D off light is the classic indication of this.

Not sure about boost limiting when cold but the ECU will hold the auto in lower gears longer and prevent O/D engagement when cold.
Vinh Bui
TryHard
NSW
94 UZZ31 (V8) / 96 JZZ30 (TT)

Posts: 455
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 08:39 pm, by:  Vinh Bui (Hyudsjk) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Is it safe to just keep the revs under 2000rpm when the engine is still cold? Sometimes I don't have time to warm up the engine, so I just drive heaps slow til the gauge hits halfway. Even then, I give it an extra 10 minutes or so before I start driving normally.
Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
I have LESS Soarers than Hayden :-(

Posts: 3830
Reg: 05-2005

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Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 09:00 pm, by:  Don Bagnall (Baggs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Perfectly safe Vinh
Callum Finch
Goo Roo
WA
Soarer TT

Posts: 1369
Reg: 09-2005

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Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 09:02 pm, by:  Callum Finch (Sigeneat) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thats what i do every day Vinh.

I have been doing it since i bought the car and all seems sweet so far. I usually dont touch the pedal; just let the idle do its work =P
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
GT4.0 V8

Posts: 4927
Reg: 11-2004

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Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 12:44 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It's probably better to be driving quietly than sitting idling, as the gearbox, diff, and other moving parts also start to warm up.

Depending on what you mean by driving normally, but just fitting in with the traffic should be fine.
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 1095
Reg: 10-2005

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Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 06:54 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No point in idling a modern car in the morning to warm it up. It's a waste of fuel and as Peter says, it does nothing for the drivetrain. Just take it easy - you won't be doing any damage if you stay under 3000 rpm and drive smoothly.
Cihan Aday
DieHard
Victoria
JZZ30

Posts: 938
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 09:58 pm, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just let idle for about 40 seconds or so until the idle drops to 1000rpm, then let it roll down the street (its a hill) and drive below 3000 until i get to uni which is 5kms away. Gets to half way mark by then.
Vinh Bui
TryHard
NSW
94 UZZ31 (V8) / 96 JZZ30 (TT)

Posts: 483
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 03:45 pm, by:  Vinh Bui (Hyudsjk) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well I just normally drive it without letting it come on boost. My eyes always on the boost gauge when I'm driving in the morning. I see my idiot friends with their s14's hitting 4000rpm when they just got into the car, lol.
Matt Bennett
Newbie
WA
UZZ32 Active V8

Posts: 2
Reg: 07-2006

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Friday, July 28, 2006 - 11:41 am, by:  Matt Bennett (Bobsled) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi,

Your first problem, the ECT error message is only a faulty solenoid. I'm guessing when you hit the OD button the message goes away? if so.. that's a pretty obvious indication (which is good news !)

Second problem, when you say turns off, does this include your dash etc? or does it flick into "charge" ?
Kevin la Terra
TryHard
victoria
soarer GTTL

Posts: 196
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, July 28, 2006 - 06:14 pm, by:  Kevin la Terra (Trdpsi) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had this problem for months and months. I took it to my mechanic and he told me it was a falty solinoid. But after he had the car for a while he noticed it was slipping slightly. (see i never noticed it was slipping cos it was like that when i brought the car) He then said cos your car is slipping the ECU is picking this up then bringing on this ECT error code. He was right cos after a good thrashing for a while second gear was slipping its arse of.
also my O/D light was flashing.
Well thats my story lol I hope everything works out
Brett Moloney
TryHard
Queensland
UZZ31

Posts: 238
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, July 28, 2006 - 08:32 pm, by:  Brett Moloney (Lxsv8) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mine had the ECT error on the dash with the o/d light flashing and it ended up being a faulty capacitor in the ECU - go figure
Hayden Miller
Tinkerer
QLD
Soarer TT

Posts: 50
Reg: 02-2006

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Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 06:20 am, by:  Hayden Miller (Zero) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks for the feed back guys! whats involved with changing a faulty soleniod?
Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
I have LESS Soarers than Hayden :-(

Posts: 4353
Reg: 05-2005

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Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 12:21 pm, by:  Don Bagnall (Baggs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Not a hell of a lot as I recall Hayden, one of the simpler jobby's on a Soarer
Trent Osborne
Tinkerer
florida
sc300 na.sc400tt

Posts: 11
Reg: 11-2006

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Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 02:31 am, by:  Trent Osborne (Sc250tt) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

any updateds on the transmission issues ?i just sneaked out my office and did a quick diagnostic and it came up with a faulty no 1 solenoid code 62 .
Brian Timms
Tinkerer
New South Wales
180sx DET

Posts: 53
Reg: 12-2006

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Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 01:39 pm, by:  Brian Timms (Turbo_brian) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Don, can you ellaborate slightly on this "involvement in Solenoid replacing"?

B.
Darryn Dewar
DieHard
Gisborne
UZZ30 Soarer

Posts: 560
Reg: 09-2005

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Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 02:23 pm, by:  Darryn Dewar (Mrphreak) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Drain transmission, remove pan, remove strainer, unplug solenoid, remove solenoid, replace solenoid, plug in solenoid, replace strainer, replace pan, fill transmission.

I may have skipped something, but that's about the gist of it.
Don Bagnall
Moderator
New Zealand
I have WAY less Soarers than Hayden :-(

Posts: 5613
Reg: 05-2005

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Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 05:00 pm, by:  Don Bagnall (Baggs) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Brian Timms wrote on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 01:39 pm:

Don, can you ellaborate slightly on this "involvement in Solenoid replacing"?



NO!.........don't want to, can't make me!
Upload
Steve Anthony De Vos
TryHard
vic
1JZGTE tt

Posts: 196
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, August 01, 2007 - 05:51 pm, by:  Steve Anthony De Vos (Sdr) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

anyone know the part number or the price of a solenoid would be? is there any difference between tt and V8?
Ben Kelly
TryHard
Lidcombe
v8

Posts: 111
Reg: 08-2005

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Wednesday, August 01, 2007 - 08:39 pm, by:  Ben Kelly (Ace) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

dont know if this helps but if your car isnt properly grounded (an extra cable from the battery seems to fix) it might cut out completely when a lot of electricals are running (maybe in the morning when you might have demisters, heater/fan going?)
Adam Lonergan
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ32

Posts: 529
Reg: 08-2005

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Thursday, August 02, 2007 - 09:39 am, by:  Adam Lonergan (Alchemistal) Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Steve, I think S&L are replacing my solenoids today. If they do I'll PM you the price they charged me as a guide.

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