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Luke Wright
Tinkerer
qld
tt

Posts: 9
Reg: 08-2008

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Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 07:43 pm, by:  Luke Wright (Shaved666) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey guys gonna put a r154 box in my 91 auto tt next weekend and was wondering if im gonna run into any problems. any info would help.
cheers
luke
Ben Socratous
Goo Roo
SA
I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!

Posts: 1817
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, September 15, 2008 - 06:57 am, by:  Ben Socratous (Socrates) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You have all the parts then? You need the box, hydraulics and pedals obviously, but also the front half of the tail shaft is a different size too. There is also something about the neutral start switch needing to be bypassed so you can start the car. I'll be using a manual ecu so hopefully I wont have any dramas like that.

I'm doing this in 3 weeks time, let me know how you go!
Andrew Meiers
DieHard
Victoria
TT

Posts: 879
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, September 15, 2008 - 05:28 pm, by:  Andrew Meiers (Acmtt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben you will still need to do the neutral start switch bridge, unless you swap to a manual loom.
Reverse lights will also have to be spliced into the auto loom.

Luke, you will have to cut a new shifter hole in the trans tunnel, approx 50mm in front of the auto hole. So be prepared to silicone and plate over the auto hole.
You will need a manual ecu to remove the dash warnings from not having the auto. Your cruise control will need a switch to disengage from the clutch pedal.
A new rear main seal is advised when you are doing this as a preventative measure. Replacing the rear gearbox seal is also advised. Check that the manual gearbox has a speed signal sender on it to plug into. Otherwise you will not have a speedo, the auto one does not fit.
Luke Wright
Tinkerer
qld
tt

Posts: 10
Reg: 08-2008

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Monday, September 15, 2008 - 07:17 pm, by:  Luke Wright (Shaved666) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yea got everything except the ecu but ill go back and get it. if i remember ill take some photos along the way for you ben. thanks for all that andrew it will help alot and save alot of time knowing all that theirs more in it than i thought but if it was easy i guess it wouldnt be fun.
cheers
Ben Socratous
Goo Roo
SA
I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!

Posts: 1818
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, September 15, 2008 - 07:43 pm, by:  Ben Socratous (Socrates) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cheers Andrew.
Luke Wright
Tinkerer
qld
tt

Posts: 12
Reg: 08-2008

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Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 11:10 pm, by:  Luke Wright (Shaved666) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey ben didnt get a chance do do the gearbox this weekend. but i did find this. it might help.


To remove the gearbox firstly disconnect the shifter mechanism. This means some interior trims will have to be removed.
Then undo the tailshaft , its often easiest to take the exhaust off to do this. Drain the auto for fluid before undoing the crossmember. Undo the crossmember to allow the engine to sag onto the engine mounts and allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Stuff a rag in the dust cover at the rear of the auto, to stop leakage onto your head. Now remove the bellhousing bolts on the underside of the engine first. Leave the two middle bolts in, but loose for the time being. When you remove the starter motor bolts hold the starter to avoid dropping it onto something it can short out to. Or remove the battery terminals before starting.
With a couple of long extensions you can locate the top rear bellhousing bolts with your socket. You may need to use a universal bit as well. It takes two long and one short extension bars at least to access these bolts.
Remove the loom, auto kickdown cable, speedo drive .
At the rear of the engine there is a rubber grommet to the auto. Remove it with a srewdriver and undo the 6 or 8 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate.
Position a transmission stand under the auto and slide the box out, remember its heavy so take care to not drop it.

Unbolt the flex plate, you mave have to stop the engine fromn turning over with a screwdriver wedged against the block or through the holes in the flex plate.
Cut a hole for the new shifter location, mound on the floor 50 mm in front of auto hole. Silicone and pop rivet a steel plate over the auto shifter hole.
Take a close look at the position of the rear seal.
Remove the rear main seal carefully with a small scredriver and clean the seal area. Seal costs about $56 so be careful when you put the new one in that you have it well coated with the Toyota oil sealant and only put it in flush with the block. Where it was in other words.

Insert the spigot bearing into the end of the crankshaft. Bolt up the flywheel with new bolts, $12 each so its a small price to pay. Torque the bolts up to the specified torque setting. Position the clutch plate (the side with the protuding springs faces the rear of the car) pressure plate onto the input shaft and align gearbox onto the engine. Tighten the bellhousing bolts and then tighten the pressure plate to flwheel to specified torque.
Bolt up the crossmember and tailshaft. Now is a good time to put the speedo sender unit back on. Connect up abs sensor (if you have it) Then put the shifter in and interior back in place, you will need the rubber boots, insulators to stop the hot air travelling into the car.

Insert clutch fork.
Put the slave cylinder in and bolt the master into it and pedals. Run the hard lines to the clutch and fill the master with clutch fluid. Get your mate to help you to bleed the clutch.
Fill the reservoir and hold open the bleed nipple. Insert a length of clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and the other end into a bottle. This way you can see when the air bubbles stop coming through. When it begins to flow out close it off. Open the bleeder and have your mate depress the pedal and hold it in while you close off the bleeder. Lift the pedal and repeat this step until the fluid has no bubbles in the clear hose. Close it firm and take it for a test drive......well almost. You had better fill the gearbox with the appropriate oil through the bung in the side.

It won't start because the neutral start switch needs to be fused. There is a plug from the auto that needs to be connected to allow it to start.

Reverse lights are well worth connecting now also.

Then drive it!

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