Friday, January 13, 2006 - 01:03 pm, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
Mark are you sure about those stall figures for the v8 and TT? The TT seems a bit high?
Considering the most the stock converter can be modded to without changing housings is 2800rpm.
To test what the stall is, roll along at 10-15kms and then mash the throttle and see what rpm it "flashes" too.
My 1jz auto with stock stall will actually only go to 1900rpm before it starts wheel spinning because it is putting the power to the wheels fairly hard. Whereas my friend in his jzz30 reckons he can get it close to 3000rpm?
Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 10:19 am, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
It's all in the method you use to measure it and what diff and tyres you have when stalling it up. Technically 'flash' and 'stall' speeds are different but all the places that do rebuilding quote stall. There was a discussion on this topic a while ago. Search should find it.
Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 10:21 am, by: Benjamin Burgess(Jampac)
Just got off the phone with Michael at mv autos and stall is higher than flash on the TT, but other way around for the v8's stall convertors. 2000-2200 is around the standard flash, and about 2600-2800 is stall on a standard TT. This however depends on your setup as it can vary a lot from car to car. My one was about 2800rpm on the stall when I had stock turbos.
Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 04:29 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
*gets out a shovel*
I was out with my mechanic today and we (well, i did all the work! ;D ) installed a stage 1 shift kit from MV Automatics.
Shifts great, quite a big difference in the direction i was after!
We have hit a snag though. There are a fair few differences to when the gear changes are made which were not expected.
The transmission holds each gear longer than it did with the stock valve body. For example it revs up around the 7000rpm mark in second when under full throttle (reaching ~120kph ish).
Also, when cruising along the FWY at 100kph, the engine used to sit around the 2200rpm mark with the torque converter locked (ie, Shift goes: 1st -> 2nd -> 3rd -> OD -> Lockup). Now, it sits around the 2800rpm or beyond mark. It is definately engaging OD as there is a shift from 3rd -> OD, and when turning OD off it kicks down to 3rd, however the torque converter does not seem to want to lockup, even under the slightest of feather touch on the throttle whilst cruising (Something it used to do!)
We played with the kickdown cable to see if that was having an influence but no change at all.
The gearbox works fine. With the old valve body in its impeccable. With the new valve body in its iffy!
Joe (Mechanic) is going to give Mike a call @ MV tomorrow and querey him on what might be going on. Hopefully it is not a manufacture issue and the pan doesnt need to be dropped again -.-'' (We did it without a hoist, never again!).
I wouldnt think that the stage 1 shift kit would be designed to change the range at which the gears change or cause anything similar to what we are experiencing to happen, as a design feature.
If there are any theories on what might be the culprit im all ears!
Cheeeeeeers.
**EDIT** One thing we also noticed was the replacement valve body had a different part number on it to the stock valve body that was in my gearbox. Could that neccessarily be a problem? One would think MV Automatics know which parts to use, right? =P
Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 06:12 pm, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
Do both valve bodies look the same? The TT valve body has a few tubes hanging out of it, v8's don't.
Did the shift kit come with solenoids or did you transfer them over from your original valve body? If it came with solenoids, check the lockup solenoid.
Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 08:04 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
Yeah they looked the same, even went on with no worries =P No bits left over. Solenoids where not replaced.
There are 3 right? 2 on one side and then another on its own. All of them plugged into the valve body and the wires run up into the gearbox assembley. All the cylinders (4 of them from memory?) were back in place with their springs. Filter back on the bottom and thats it!
Joe has done a fair few valve body shift kits before so i wouldnt think he would miss something. Then again, mistakes happen ;)
I did an ECU reset this afternoon hoping that resetting all the gearbox doodads would clear it up, no change.
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 08:48 am, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
Yep. No fix ='(
**EDIT** Just received the call from Joe. Mike says that the issue will lie with the solenoid. Two most likely causes; 1) The O ring on the solenoid has been damaged and is not sealing properly 2) The solenoid has been disturbed into not working when we had it disconnected. Damn cars and their "EVERYTHING MUST BREAK!" philosophy!
Unfortunately it means the pan will have to be dropped again to be sure. On the plus side, the pan only takes a few mins to drop =P
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 04:06 pm, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
When you say you didn't replace the solenoids, do you mean that the shift kit came with solenoids or did you take them off your old valve body and put them on the shift kitted body?
There are 4 solenoids. MV auto should be able to get you a spare of another valve body.
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 - 08:02 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
The valve body didnt come with replacement solenoids.
Had transmission expert who Joe recommended have a gander at it today after work. He says that we would have had to been very rough with everything to cause any damage to the O rings or solenoid, which we werent. He says that the most likely issue is there is something not quite right with the valve body, however opening it up is a costly and potentially fatal process to the kit in the first place.
Then we had a long discussion about how lockup is bad anyway >.> Aparantly its quite detrimental to a transmission over time, due to the harmonics of the engine causing vibrations through the crank shaft when the torque converter is locked up. Having the torque converter not lockup aparantly will extend the life of a gearbox (and the engine) significantly.
At this stage im going to leave it i think. I'm not having any problems with the transmission shifting etc, its working like clockwork. The cost of having to pull it all out again to find the actual cause of the change, and then repair it (which would potentially void warranty on the shift kit and could unleash more issues) greatly outweighs any fuel economy i may have lost =P
Neil Griffiths Trader NSW I have MORE Soarers than Hayden :-)
Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 06:03 am, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
I'd take it out and send it back to MV to look at. For a piece of mind, get michael to supply you 4 solenoids when he sends you a replacement shift kit.
Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 03:09 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
Thanks yall for your assistance.
I dont think i will bother with it though. Everything else is working and an experienced tranny guy says that its more of a good thing than bad.
The cost of having to remove it and replace with the old valve body, sending it back, getting a replacement and then 4 solenoids and installign that all again... i will be looking at $400ish and a whole lot of time to do it. Just to get back lockup, which isnt that big a deal really....
Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 10:41 pm, by: Callum Finch(Sigeneat)
Sorry to beat this thread into the ground even further.. but i thought i would grab it while its hot ;D
Just tonight sitting at the drive through at Red Rooter (i had a craving for a Flayva!! =D ) i was playing with my knob. Hot chick was serving me =D
...Shifter knob that is...
Anyway; as i was cycling between mainly D and R from N, i could hear noises coming from what sounded like my transmission from outside the car. Ie, window was down and i could hear it, if window was up i wouldnt be able to. The noise was akin to someone taking a seringe and sucking something up in it. That very sensual sucking noise =P
I never noticed it before i had the new valve body in, although on my previous gearbox the solenoids were a little noisy. Is this sound likely to be the solenoids again? *shrugs* Would it be a bad noise? Or something to be expected with the different stage kit thingy.
I'd ask my mechanic but he is up in Kalbarry or something fishing for the next 2 weeks. =(