Friday, July 31, 2009 - 07:11 pm, by: Brent Stewart(Bsm2122)
I am not too sure if this a transmission related issue but when i floor the car fully it goes alright until I hit about 4500 rpm and the car struggles. At about 6000rpm its just hitting the rev limiter and not changing gear for about 2 seconds. This is through all the gears but only on full throtle. I actually recorded my best 1-100 at about 3/4 throttle. From 1000-2000rpm and 4500-6000rpm the car is reving really rough. Does anybody know what is wrong Thanks
Friday, July 31, 2009 - 07:37 pm, by: Andrew Duaso(Andrewd)
is the AFM plugged in?
i've been running around for a few days now with it disconnected and occasionally at wot it dosent really like shifting! but based on my g testing it's 0.5sec 0-100km/h faster
Saturday, August 01, 2009 - 03:28 am, by: Jamie Richards(Nwb40gt)
you should clean your AFM & check spark plugs, my car did that once at 2500 to 4000 it would misfire clean the AFM & clean fuel injectors works better than ever now
Sunday, August 02, 2009 - 08:25 am, by: Adam Foster(Adam)
i had similar to this. and this is what one of the guys suggested read this.
Roger Costello Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2005 - 10:45 pm:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi, One possible cause is carbon build up in the combustion chamber. The 91 Lexus LS400's had problems with this to the extent some had the heads modified by Lexus dealers to lower compression. There is an effective cure that I have used successfully on 3 different 1UZFE's. This really works and no I do not work for Caltex.
Buy 2 bottles of Caltex Techron 5000. (not 1000!) it should cost about $11 a bottle, keep looking till you find a Caltex station that stocks it. Add both bottles to a near empty tank and fill up with BP Ultimate or Caltex PULP. Drive normally (expect some/lots of smoke on acceleration initially) until the tank is below 20 litres and then remove the battery leads or relevant fuses for about 10 min's then reconnect. After you have reset the clock take it for a brisk drive. You should have no pinging and a lot more power after the ECU retunes the engine. This is because you've removed the carbon deposits in the combustion chambers and all over the back of the valves along with properly cleaning the injectors. The difference is remarkable and readily apparent within 20 - 40 KM of adding the Techron 5000 to the tank. The ECU reset is to maximize the benefits on timing.
The first time I did this I was stunned as it seriously felt like a new engine. I have tried most of the different magic potions on the market and the cocktail in Techron 5000 seems the most effective. It was developed by Chevron in the US to meet Californian legislated requirements to remove inlet valve deposits. There has been a fair bit of independent scientific testing with many types of engines and it really does work. It is proprietary to Chevron/Caltex and not available from other Australian sources other than in Caltex Vortex at less than 10% of the concentration you get with 2 bottles in one tank. The reason for two bottles and a full tank is that the normal ratio is about 1 bottle to 40 liters. While this will clean most of the carbon 60 or seventy liters worth at that concentration will leave your engine absolutely pristine. I add a bottle every two or three tanks and it stays like new.
If you still have problems with pinging think about ignition leads next. After removing the covers over the leads on each rocker cover have a look under the bonnet at night in a dark spot. If you have a bit of a blue purple ignition lead light show going on (not uncommon) the resistance of the leads may be fine but the insulation is breaking down leading to slight crossfire/misfire problems. I favour the OEM leads purchased through a Toyota dealer for around $400. Many other good leads are available but the Toyota OEM's come with all the plastic bits brackets and spacers that get old and brittle. I hope this helps.