Monday, July 12, 2010 - 07:48 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
I wanted to firm up my gear lever shift feel and thought i could just replace the bush like in this pic
But mine is a 94 model, and looks like this one..
Where the hell is the bush?
2nd is a real dog to get when cold, but gets better as it warms up, but still pretty notchy... As far as I know it has the redline lightweight shock proof in it already..
The clutch comes out pretty late too... Could this case any of the symptoms?
Monday, July 12, 2010 - 08:48 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
if the redline has been in there for quite some time, it has the GL5 type oil in it. Alot of people have been having problems with the shockproof glazing up the synchros and causing crap changes. If you want to use redline use the MT90 as its GL4 type oil and dosnt create the same problems that the shockproof does.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 06:11 am, by: Matt Petersen(Mattmannz)
Check for play in the entire rear shift lever housing. There are three bushes that hold the assembly against the gearbox and these do wear over time and create a bit of play.
I had a machinist spin up some brass bushes and it's nice and solid now.
Matt.
Tai Johnsen DieHard QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 10:09 am, by: Jeff Bedsor(Jeff_bedsor)
As Scott said, get rid of the Redline, it can "go off" after 10,000 k's or less. I switched to Motul when I had my WRX and had no further problems with notchy changes.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 12:22 pm, by: James Harris(Haro)
what the sh1t!?!? I didnt realise you were/are back in the game Tai !
Nice work brother! Im still lingering around (clearly) even thought I had a GT Starlet now haha.
Check the events section - QLD Cruise coming up ! I have been eyeing off a Red VVTi 98 Manual in NSW for a couple of weeks now.... but its SOO FAAAARR AWWAAAAAYY
Maybe ill just buy a Volvo C70 Convertible haha
Tai Johnsen DieHard QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 12:58 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Thanks for the info Matt and Jeff..
James mate! Yeah, I decided to convert to the TT dark side and ditch the automagic I've only been back a few weeks.. I'm living up in Kingaroy for the moment (peanut country) at a motorbike shop.
Nice work on the starlet! I have seen one do a 10sec pass at Willowbank
Go the red rocket man! I bought mine from Melb so quit ya whinging
Tai Johnsen DieHard QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 01:38 pm, by: Damian Ware(Frozenpod)
Jeff Bedsor wrote on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 10:09 am:
As Scott said, get rid of the Redline, it can "go off" after 10,000 k's or less. I switched to Motul when I had my WRX and had no further problems with notchy changes.
I have heard this a few times but I have also heard bucket loads of reports that say otherwise.
Redline claim the LWSP will last for 200,000km. LWSP is thinner than MTL90 from the redlines specs.
LWSP should prevent glazing of the synchros, in my experience the thinner the oil the better in terms of shift quality and not glazing synchros but too thin and it will not provide enough lubrication for bearings and the gear set.
If that happens in reality I don't know I haven't had any personal experience with LWSP.
One of the best manuals I have driven used ATF it was used for 6 track days per year for 2 years and still drove very well before being replaced.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 02:11 pm, by: Jeff Bedsor(Jeff_bedsor)
Everyone raves about the redline LWSP, I know from my own experience and that of many of the local WRX guys that it fails and the shifts go notchy again after about 10,000K's. You pay something like $170 for 4 litres of the stuff and it doesn't last 10,000 km's, not good. Many instances were reported to the distributors and nothing was done. Do a search on Rexnet if you want some further info/ proof.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010 - 05:50 pm, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
Nah, not much geeking at all these days I am hoping to become an aircraft maintenance engineer for QANTAS in the near future, so it's just an in-between job for me...
Don't let an LSD hold you back from a vvt manual dude!!
I just got back from doing an ECU reset...
I did it on my V8 and honestly didn't notice any difference at all... Not so with the TT gotta hang on now!
Tai Johnsen DieHard QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Sunday, September 05, 2010 - 11:41 pm, by: Costa Tsimiklis(Driftshop)
Redline heavy shock proof here, has been in the car for over 25,000kms.
Only grip, its a bit notchy 1-2 and 2-1 for the first 5 mins if its driven straight from cold. Other than that..... best gear box oil for high powered soarers and especially with a 94 style box with remote shifter - very easy to fast shift gears up and down once the GB oil is warm.
MT90 is great as well, but does not offer the performance protection as shock proof does.
Tai Johnsen DieHard QLD JZZ30 Pov Manual LSD & black!
Tuesday, September 07, 2010 - 09:54 am, by: Tai Johnsen(Privatejohnsen)
OK, so i replaced 33575A and B and it did seem to make a little difference to the shifter play, but not much... should I change this one next?
I notice the same cold issues you have Costa but mine continues to give grief 1-2 feeling "notchy" and 2-3 trying to "kick" the lever when shifting up into 3rd..
Costa Tsimiklis Goo Roo Victoria 386.2 rwkw Soon T51R or GT4094
Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 01:52 am, by: Costa Tsimiklis(Driftshop)
The situation with the Redline Shock Proof oils is that they have solid particles suspended in the oil. Sometimes these particles can get stuck in the needle rollers and/or synchro hub surfaces where it it connected on the gear. The synchro works by braking its speed due to its conical design and matching the speed of the other gear for a smooth change.
Redline when cold is always a bit notchy, goes away when the temp gets to half.
I would recommend filling the gearbox with diesel or kero, and run it through the gears on jack stands/hoist. Flush it a few times, then add in a running in engine oil. Run it again and then drain. Add the oil you want if it is a special blend. If the oil is not special , you can skip the running in oil part and just add in the general oil after all the diesel or kero is out.
Blowing compressed air in the gearbox can also dry it out quicker, but do not pressurize the box as it will make the front/rear seals leak.
Failing that, our synchros could just be f.ucked and no oil will fix that :/
Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 09:55 pm, by: Matt Newman(Soarersrock)
Tazo when i got my r154 checked and rebuilt the owner of the very reputable shop recommended a 75w 90 mineral oil for it. and suggested not to use synthetic oil when i asked about them.
Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 11:22 pm, by: Shane Haverkamp(Havabeer)
i would have thought "knothcy" shifts would be more a mechanical problem (bearing wear) more then anything, aka something an oil or oil additive can't solve.
i know for a fact my first gear takes off and knotces and shakes all over the place most likely due to a thrust washer failure commmon among R154's
realistically i'd drain about 500ml if not all the fluid out and look at it, if there's shiny gold looking flakes in it at all it means your gears and bearings are wearing which is something no matter what you add to your oil you can't fix with out physically changing the bearings and gears.
if you want to look up why gear changes should be smooth look at the "oil wedge principal" and go from there
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I've only been back a few weeks.. I'm living up in Kingaroy for the moment (peanut country) at a motorbike shop. 
gotta hang on now!
