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John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 267
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, May 18, 2012 - 12:25 am, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had to change my diff in my 32 when I bought it, it had blown but could still be driven slow. I got a good condition 31 diff, which is the same as far as I know. If anyone wants my old diff for parts you are welcome to have it for free, if you just want to pay the freight.

I have 2 issues:
1. I put WD 40 on the bolts and then remembered reading a post that someone's axle bolts came out and wondered if I should be taking the bolts out and cleaning up with break clean and putting lock tite on them? Please give me your thoughts on this.
2. The normal procedure when you take the drive shafts off is to mark them for reassembly but obviously when you are putting a second hand diff in you can't do that so how much of a problem might that present with regard to imbalance and what is the remedy?
3. What is a good diff oil and should I put any additives in to prolong life and smoothness?
When I was putting the diff in it was raining and I had the end plate off and a little rain, just some drizzle got in to the diff oil. Should I drop the oil and put fresh in or can it handle a few drops of water? The oil that was in it had been changed just before I got it.

Thanks for you opinions. Cheers John
Jamie Richards
TryHard
St.john's
v8

Posts: 194
Reg: 06-2009

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Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 02:50 am, by:  Jamie Richards (Nwb40gt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Whenever getting used parts that use oil, it's always a good idea to put in fresh oil
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

Posts: 3515
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 08:55 am, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ahh, fun times changing a '32 diff.

No need for loctite, will make it very very difficult to remove again if needed. Just clean the threads and torque them to factory specs and it will be fine. Infact just follow the manual for everything and you'll be fine. Contrary to popular belief, the engineers at Toyota did know what they were doing.

No Issue with Imbalance, they can go back on any way.

I use castrol SAF-XA in my diffs. Very good, full synthetic diff oil, not had any issues.

A bit of drizzle won't matter, it will evaporate when the diff gets up to operating temp.
Shane Haverkamp
DieHard
nsw
soarer TT

Posts: 791
Reg: 10-2007

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Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 03:29 pm, by:  Shane Haverkamp (Havabeer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

there's no reason you should have to remove the WD-40 lubricating a bolt will just help you reach a tension with less force and the WD will help prevent corrosion in the threads making it easier to undo next time.

a threaded joint will actually only make about 25% metal to metal contact when put together. the rest is basically just an air gap. so putting a lubricant on the threads will actually fill in all the peaks and hollows giving 100% total contact (this is what loctite does except it's anaerobic polymer and goes hard with out the presence of air and locks the bolt in place)

the lubricant will actually help you over come the friction cause by the 25% metal contact upon installation and hence why its easier to reach a desired torque with less effort (roughly 10% less) but either which way either lubed or un lubed you still have the same amount of torque on a bolt, which is the force that is needed to over come to come loose.
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 269
Reg: 02-2010

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Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 06:57 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Dan, I appreciate your continual input, yes it was a challenge to get the new diff in with the rear steer, not much room for a 12 mil allan key, so I bought a bit for a socket and shortened it and put it in my snug 3/8" drive ratchet. I had to cut a piece out of my sparewheel well to move the rack away from the bolts far enough. I epoxied it back later. I couldn't separate one of the tie rod ball joints on the left hand end of the rack so it was a real wrestle to move the rack away enough to to get to the bolts but I did eventually succeed. Great sighs of relief and shouts of joy!!

Thanks Shane for the explanation as I thought something like that would be the case when I used the WD but didn't have all that explanation, then the doubt came after reading that someone's bolts came out. Thanks, I will just torque them to 64 ft lbs.

Cheers John
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12339
Reg: 11-2004

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Friday, May 25, 2012 - 04:59 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Dan McColl wrote on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 08:55 am:

A bit of drizzle won't matter, it will evaporate when the diff gets up to operating temp.


As a diff is pretty much a closed system, won't it just condense again when it cools, possibly causing some surface rust?
John Stafford
TryHard
Qld.
Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8 and a UZZ32 # 514

Posts: 270
Reg: 02-2010

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Friday, May 25, 2012 - 06:24 pm, by:  John Stafford (Johng12) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Peter,
I loosened the top full hole ready to check out changing the oil, I forgot about it while I went on with something else, and when I came back to it I found that the diff had been overfilled and some had leaked out on the floor and there was no water in the spill. If there had been any it would be on the bottom, right? So I will drain the oil and see if there is any water in it and if not I will put the old oil back in but if there is water there I will either suck it out with a syringe or put new oil in it.

I did the drive shaft bolts us with a torque wrench and was surprised at how much tension they took to get to spec of 64 ft lbs. I had them no where near that tight with my normal 1/2" drive ratchet.

By the way, I have found that my sinking suspension is partly due to lack of nitrogen in my left rear accumulator, which upon doing Peter Scott's test, dribbled out only 70mls of fluid.

I may need to get a new accumulator off Peter Taplin but need to get mine pressured up to see just how long it takes to loose that pressure. I have not been able to find anyone near me yet who can do the nitrogen fill up on my schrader valves, any suggestions north of Brisbane?
Dan McColl
Goo Roo
Victoria (The Nazi State)
Pretty Red Thing and The Black Rattler

Posts: 3546
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, May 25, 2012 - 09:09 pm, by:  Dan McColl (Hoon) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Peter Nitschke wrote on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 04:59 pm:

As a diff is pretty much a closed system, won't it just condense again when it cools, possibly causing some surface rust?


It's vented, so assuming the vent is not blocked then the evaporated water should make its way out the vent.

As the diff heats up and cools the air inside expands and contracts, the vent allows for this without blowing out seals.
Peter Nitschke
Junk Filterer
South Australia
UZZ30 UZZ31

Posts: 12345
Reg: 11-2004

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Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 12:07 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for that Dan. :-)

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