Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 01:29 am, by: Rik Garth(Nakedfaerie)
My problems are all linked I think. Most of the time the O/D OFF yellow light on the dash is blinking. Now 2 problems with the transmission. 1, it doesn't take off when in Drive. I have to put it in first then when I'm moving go to Drive. 2, It doesn't want to change out of First when in Drive. If I go to L (first) then manually go to 2 (second) it will change but if its in Drive it doens't want to change to 2nd.
I did have the transmission serviced about 3 months ago and it helped for about 1 hour.
Do I need a new transmission? Is it in need of a computer reset? Trying to find the cheapest way to fix this as I'm always broke with very limited budget.
Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 06:20 am, by: Peter Williams(Skeeta)
Could be main ECU, it also controls auto transmission. It can have similar symptoms when the ECU goes into limp mode. Have you had the capacitors changed in the ECU?
Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 05:57 pm, by: Rik Garth(Nakedfaerie)
Thanks for the quick replies guys. I did what it says in that transmission diags and got an error 62 So it looks like a few solenoids need replacing.
First I reset the ECU and it was a little better. The OD OFF stopped flashing and it took off in Drive but it still didn't like to change from 1st to 2nd without easing off the accelerator.
I'm glad it's not a full transmission that needs replacing which is what I was told when I got the transmission serviced but he's not a Soarer guy so he didn't know about these tests and how to check them.
Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 07:31 pm, by: Ryan McDonough(Ryan)
I got the same error, but it was still the ecu, changed it for another and the problem went away. Put the broken ecu into the other car, and it now had the gearbox problem.
Costs nothing to swap them over. If you cannot get one to swap it over let me know, I have a working spare.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013 - 06:21 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
You have to find out what is the problem first, it can either be Faulty Solenoid, Bad Solenoid Solder Joint on Solenoid, Earth Problem, Wiring Fault.... I've seen all of these situations happen
Example, let's say you are getting Error with Solenoid 1 :
Drain Transmission Fluid and Remove Transmission sump to gain access to Solenoids :
Step 1. --------------
With Solenoid wire unplugged. Measure Resistance from ECU Harness "S1" to Solenoid wire at the valve body.
Low Resistance = PASS - GOTO STEP 2
Abnormally High Resistance - Wiring Fault, Check harnesses along bellhousing and related plugs and wires for frays or damage, corrosion.
Step 2 ----------------
With Solenoid wire plugged in, Measure Resistance from ECU Harness "S1" to Chassis Ground
Resistance should be about 10-15 Ohms.
Resistance within Spec = Faulty ECU, Change ECU or check/replace Capacitors.
Resistance out of Spec = Goto Step 3
Step 3. ---------------
Remove Solenoid from Valve body and measure resistance. Should be about 10-15 Ohms
10-15 Ohms = Poor Grounding to Valve Body previously, If has black coating, sand down black coating around the bolt/washer hole and the mounting bracket
Out of Spec = Add Solder to the solder joint on the outside of the solenoid then re-test resistance.
No Change = Faulty Solenoid, Replace.
Sometimes the problem can be Intermittent, making it very hard to find the problem. E.G if it only happens when the car warms up a bit or with Vibration.
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