Monday, September 19, 2016 - 11:51 am, by: Mitch Templar(Ra23celica)
Hi all, I need some help please. I'm trying to remove the auto trans from my 1JZ Soarer, and I just can't get access to the top two bolts, from underneath or above. Any suggestions please? Second question - are there better solutions for the metal coolant line pipes that run from the trans to the radiator? The previous owner cut one when he welded a bigger exhaust in, and fixed it with hose, clamps and gaffa tape... Thanks. Mitch.
Monday, September 19, 2016 - 04:53 pm, by: Blake Gloyn(Blakenz)
lower the rear of the trans, so the engine and trans tilts on an angle. then borrow your mates longest extension to add to your socket set's extension bars, and reach up to those top two bolts. i suggest leave a couple of lower bolts in loosely , and then undo the lower ones last. Make sure you have a trans hoist or similar, as it is very heavy , cos trans plus torque convertor plus fluid weighs plenty.
Monday, September 19, 2016 - 05:25 pm, by: Mitch Templar(Ra23celica)
Thanks Blake, I had not thought about doing it this way. My only idea so far was to chain the engine to my lifting crane and then drop the cross member enough to get in to those bolts. The fun will start when I try to line it all up again and turn the torque convertor twice (2 full revolutions) to get it all to slot back in together. Cheers, Mitch.
Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 07:32 pm, by: Blake Gloyn(Blakenz)
never heard of having to turn the torque convertor twice. What i do is put it on the spline, and make sure you get the three movements you need 1. onto the first spline. 2. onto the second spline. 3. slotting the notches on the convertor onto the tabs on the oil pump drive. Then tie the convertor firmly in place, and lift the trans back up to motor, with convertor already in place. to get the engine to tilt up at the front enough, you will likely want to undo radiator hoses and air intake pipes/intercooler piping maybe. loosen off engine mount bolts too if required. have also pulled motor and trans out as one, out the front(need to remove bonnet obviously, and have an endless chain to lift the weight. And one time my mechanics undid the cross member and trans cross member, and then lifted the car on the hoist, effectively leaving the motor/trans combo sitting on the ground.
Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 08:51 am, by: Mitch Templar(Ra23celica)
Thanks Blake, This is excellent advice. As you can tell I have not done this before so I have been trying to gather as much information as possible, and some of it may not have been right. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge here. I will put a note back here when I get to the other end of this adventure. Thanks again, Mitch.
Tuesday, September 27, 2016 - 12:30 pm, by: Mitch Templar(Ra23celica)
Just an update for anyone who follows me down this dark path. I have the old trans out and the new one lined up to go back in. Mongrel of a job. Some tips: Undo the air intake and intercooler hoses. Disconnect the starter motor and catch it when you undo the second bolt. Fix the burnt and heat damaged parts of the loom / electrical harness that runs down to your transmission sensors. Have plenty of rags handy because you can never drain out all of the old transmission fluid. I used two long 1/2 inch drive extension bars to get me 875mm out the back of the trans to undo the top two 17mm bolts, after taking the g/box crossmember off. And most importantly, use a height adjustable tranny trolley (this is not what they call the floats they use in the Sydney G & L Mardi Gras). Mine has wheels and a lifting deck that takes the weight of the trans while you muck around getting the bolts out. Then, if your car is high enough off the ground, the trolley just rolls right out. Simple, right?
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