Monday, February 27, 2006 - 09:41 am, by: Hanré Van Rensburg(Silent_knight)
Hi guys,
Though I'd ask here before I attempt it myself. I have removed many a gearbox in a Supra. All *A70 Supras but I've never done it in a Z30 Soarer.
I've got a JZZ30.
What is the easiest way to take it out or anyone have any tips/tricks they'd like to share?
From just looking at the engine it doesn't look like I'll be able to get a spanner in from the top behind the motor to get to the top bellhousing bolts...am I correct in assuming this?
So I was probably thinking that I'll need a couple of rather large extensions and tackle it from under the car and remove it that way.
If anyone has done this before which I'm sure you have would you be so kind as to share how you went around doing and what worked for you?
Monday, February 27, 2006 - 12:25 pm, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
I have a 1jz corona but my method was going to be loosen engine mounts lift engine a little and then take off gearbox x member and angle everything downward. I was then going to use long extensions on a ratchet to get to the bellhousing bolts. That was the plan anyway and my tunnel is smaller than a jzz30 one
Monday, February 27, 2006 - 05:33 pm, by: Ben Socratous(Socrates)
HA! 1jz in a corona, so I'm not crazy then... I've owned 2 previously and had thought about that many times, only till i realised how much rust there was in both shells
Nice to see someone has done it, that would have to be the worlds ultimate sleeper, unless you count that dodgy old late 70's volvo getting round here with a toojay?!?
Monday, February 27, 2006 - 08:02 pm, by: Andrew Meiers(Acmtt)
To remove the gearbox firstly disconnect the shifter mechanism. This means some interior trims will have to be removed. Then undo the tailshaft , its often easiest to take the exhaust off to do this. Drain the auto for fluid before undoing the crossmember. Undo the crossmember to allow the engine to sag onto the engine mounts and allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Stuff a rag in the dust cover at the rear of the auto, to stop leakage onto your head. Now remove the bellhousing bolts on the underside of the engine first. Leave the two middle bolts in, but loose for the time being. When you remove the starter motor bolts hold the starter to avoid dropping it onto something it can short out to. Or remove the battery terminals before starting. With a couple of long extensions you can locate the top rear bellhousing bolts with your socket. You may need to use a universal bit as well. It takes two long and one short extension bars at least to access these bolts. Remove the loom, auto kickdown cable, speedo drive . At the rear of the engine there is a rubber grommet to the auto. Remove it with a srewdriver and undo the 6 or 8 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flex plate. Position a transmission stand under the auto and slide the box out, remember its heavy so take care to not drop it.
Unbolt the flex plate, you mave have to stop the engine fromn turning over with a screwdriver wedged against the block or through the holes in the flex plate.
Take a close look at the position of the seal. Remove the rear main seal carefully with a small screwdriver and clean the seal area. Seal costs about $65 so be careful when you put the new one in that you have it well coated with the Toyota oil sealant and only put it in flush with the block. Where it was in other words.
Insert the spigot bearing into the end of the crankshaft. Bolt up the flywheel with new bolts, $12 each so its a small price to pay. Torque the bolts up to the specified torque setting. Put the clutch and pressure plate onto the gearbox and slide it in (the side with the protuding springs faces the rear of the car on the clutch) and pressure plate and align then tighten to specified torque. Bolt up the bellhousing and starter motor. Bolt up the presure plate to required torque. Bolt up the crossmember and tailshaft. . Now is a good time to put the speedo drive back in. Then put the shifter in and interior back in place, you will need the rubber boots, insulators to stop the hot air travelling into the car.
Put the slave cylinder in and bolt the master into it and pedals. Run the hard lines to the clutch and fill the master with clutch fluid. Get your mate to help you to bleed the clutch. Fill the reservoir and hold open the bleed nipple. Insert a length of clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and the other end into a bottle. This way you can see when the air bubbles stop coming through. When it begins to flow out close it off. Open the bleeder and have your mate depress the pedal and hold it in while you close off the bleeder. Lift the pedal and repeat this step until the fluid has no bubbles in the clear hose. Close it firm and take it for a test drive......well almost. You had better fill the gearbox with the appropriate oil through the bung in the side.
It won't start because the neutral start switch needs to be fused. There is a plug from the auto that needs to be connected to allow it to start.
Reverse lights are well worth connecting now also.
Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:27 am, by: Shane Ilich(Ferret)
Andrew Meiers wrote on Monday, February 27, 2006 - 08:02 pm:
Then put the shifter in and interior back in place, you will need the rubber boots, insulators to stop the hot air travelling into the car.
andrew - dont spose you have any part numbers for these insulators?? or is it just gonna be easiest for me to head to Clarke Rubber, and by some insulating rubber (heatproof) to seal the tranny tunnel and stop the constant flow of hot air onto my left thigh
Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 05:09 pm, by: Shane Ilich(Ferret)
yeah, might give them a go.
New Town Toyota in Vic Park are useless. I walked in there with a printout straight off the parts cd, had a diagram of the gearshifter, the part number for the shifter surround, even the trim code written on it. The guy at the counter tells me he needs my VIN number and engine number to look up the part. i ask why, when i've already got the part number there, all i want to know is how much. tells me thats how their parts system operates for the imports. i tell him he's wrong, cos i have access to the parts system, hence how i came to have that printout. i also explain to him that my VIN number etc will be useless, cos that'll tell him i've got an auto, and i want the manual gearshift surround. he just looks at me, then says i'll need the VIN off the car the manual g/box come from. i told him that was a jza80 supra, so that'd be useless as well. he just looked at me again, and then said he couldnt help me.
Previous
