Wednesday, November 26, 2014 - 11:17 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
I replaced the TX valve recently and the A/C was really cold.
It is now not "cold". I reset the ECU's and read the codes. they were 11 and 21(solar sensor). After driving the car with A/C on i rechecked teh codes. They are now 11 (in vehicle temp sensor cct), 21,( that is ok car is in the shade) and 23 (pressure switch)
Does 23 mean low gas? Is the 11 error the temp sensor under the steering wheel, or the temp sensor on the rhs of the condensor unit the tx valve attaches to?
Wednesday, November 26, 2014 - 02:26 pm, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
further to the above, the compressor clutch is not pulling in.
I think low gas, but no visible leaks. I have searched, but cannot confirm a fuse. Is there a fuse to check, or is it back to the regas guy to check for gas?
Saturday, November 29, 2014 - 05:53 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
Hi Tom.
Code 11 is for the circuit for the sensor that monitors the cabin temperature inside vehicle, it would be the one near kick panel.
High and low pressure switches are on the Liquid line, they should be a combination switch of Low, Medium, and High. Low and high cut are for compressor cut-out and Medium is for fan activation at roughly 250 PSI.
If the compressor doesn't even come on at all, only after you check the static pressures, then you can proceed to jump the LP and HP sections of the switch to rule this out as a fault.
Next trace A/C Clutch trigger wire to connector near fusebox and back probe it to check if it's getting power to rule out compressor clutch coil fault.
Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 12:09 pm, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
hi Boris where exactly is the sensor that gives the code 11. There is one behind the little vent in the panel above the drivers left knee. There was also 1 on the opposite side of the condensor unit to the TX valve. I have now confirmed the system is low on gas. no visible leaks at the firewall or the TX valve sensor, or around the consensor. I will access the TX valve and see if the leak is in that area. It is very small as it took 3 wks to show.
Sunday, November 30, 2014 - 06:50 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
Yes that will be the one in the panel near the left knee that is described in Code 11. An error in this circuit may not necessarily cause the compressor to cut out.
3 Weeks until compressor stopped cycling is not a small leak.
Tuesday, December 02, 2014 - 06:53 pm, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
hi boris , with this type of leak , do you think it should be visible? i have pulled out the glove box etc and have full view of the tx valve and connections. I cannot see any leak. Cannot see any leak at the fire wall connections or where the tx valve plugs into one of the lines . no visible leak at the compressor.
Tuesday, December 02, 2014 - 08:58 pm, by: Peter Williams(Skeeta)
Had my air con regassed a couple of years ago, when the heater core was changed, lost the gas over about a month. After a lot of checking it was one of the rubber hoses had deteriorated and become porous, replaced the hose with a new one (from Castle Hill Toyota) and all good.
Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 01:16 am, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
It may be visible depending where it is, if it's only one single leak and not a multiple amount of leaks.
Evaporator leaks are hard to find, you need to leave the car unused for 2 days then turn on the fan on low speed, all vents off except closest to evaporator then 1 to 2 seconds after fan turn on you should smell the refrigerant.
Wednesday, December 03, 2014 - 07:45 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
peter, could you detect the oil/dye on the rubber hose, or did you just change it because you couldnt find a leak any where else? do you remember which hose( i would guess on the high pressure side)
Monday, December 08, 2014 - 01:20 pm, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
the leak appears to be between the compressor and the plate that the hoses attach to. There is a rectanglar O ring between them. Will check it out tomorrow.
Saturday, January 31, 2015 - 10:12 am, by: Tom Richards(Tomr)
update, replaced the seal between the compressor and the mounting plate, leak fixed.
Both the heater and A/C did not have a smooth temp control. both worked on max, but when backed off temp control was intermittent/varied. Replaced the ambient temp sensor (this sensor was error 11) and everything works perfectly now.
Doing a resistance measurement on the old thermostat, the R was varying all over the place. The new one had a steady 1560 Ohms.
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