Thursday, April 16, 2015 - 08:46 am, by: Kevin Sherwood(Nossi)
Thanks , Boris , i won't be fitting it myself , the aircon guy will doing it , im just sourcing the part for him .... when he tested the system the compressor was leaking all over the place ..
No, I used to run a parts business and have worked in the past on many Soarers. I learned how to fix my own A/C after getting sick of misinformation and being ripped off.
North of river, can post if you prefer that.
John Stafford DieHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, 11 second XR6T
Saturday, December 26, 2015 - 01:55 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Hey Boris, You have been a help to many on this forum, maybe you can help me with a problem that I have? Over a period of a number of months I noticed that I would get that hot feeling coming from my air con only to see that the light on the top left was flashing, indicating that my air con was not working. I would turn it off (top left button) and then turn it on again by pushing the auto air button on the right hand side and it would work but the condition worstened until it now does not work at all. I turn it off as before but when I turn it on it tries to work, loading up the motor at idle, but then the light just flashes again and no cold air.
Can you tell me what is going wrong? I asked an air con guy, who had no time to help me, and he said that it was likely something electrical rather than a lack of gas, which I suggested. What do you think?
I noticed what seemed to be some compressor die and oil around the switch on the underside of the compressor where the 2 grey wires go in. Does this mean anything? Where might it be leaking from and what should I do? I have a couple of used compressors, from when I was fixing my 32, which have those switches that I could use if that is the problem. When my 32 unit was not working I bought a new Denso from the U.S. and changed the rear body to fix my 32.
Should I just buy a new compressor or is there more to it than that?
Thanks for any help.
John Stafford DieHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, 11 second XR6T
Saturday, December 26, 2015 - 03:17 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Upon searching the net further I found the following: Blinking light on air con on 31. There is no relay connection being detected which "charges" the compressor(blow cold air) You may have a bad magnetic clutch relay or You may have bad or old wiring. Test this hypothesis by connecting a temporary lead (12 gauge wire with an alligator clip on each end). Run this wire from the positive side of the car battery and attach it to terminal 3 of the magnetic clutch relay. The relay should be the only connection of wiring you see right there above the compressor. Before doing this make sure there is freeon in that baby and turn the A/C on full power. Be sure that the negative side of the battery is grounded, also be careful of the drive belt with your piggy back wire.
also:
There is this thing called a compressor lock sensor which causes the A/C button to blink if: your engine rpm is higher then like 450 or something. and the timing between the compressor and engine is rpm is off.
So what you could do is adjust the tension on the drive belt to put them back in sync(take a crow bar to the tensioner have a friend help!)
Also the Compressor lock sensor could be faulty that thing is right next to the relay clutch and is only a two terminal connection where as the Magnetic Relay clutch is 4 terminals
The magnetic relay clutch is located at Relay Block 2 which is under the hood to your right (if you are standing in front of the car) with two screws that keep it closed.
Sooooo........... I followed the instructions and put power to the single connection from the clutch (Bypassing the relay I suppose) and turned the air con on full and it worked but there was a noise in the compressor that did not sound healthy. Sounds like the compressor needs replacing, not the relay, as the relay would cut the compressor out if there was something wrong, right?
Sunday, December 27, 2015 - 09:06 am, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
That was a very simple answer. Maybe too simple for me Do you mean replace the drier as well as the compressor or that the noise is because of the failure in the drier?
Monday, December 28, 2015 - 03:45 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
rapid cycling of compressor clutch most likely caused by failed reciever/drier.
Green dye from sensor at bottom of the compressor is either leaky compressor speed sensor O-ring or leaky shaft seal.
Noise from compressor is because of wear.
New compressor, drier and you need to balance the system oil out correctly by measuring the amount of oil from old compressor and measuring oil from the new compressor.
Any issues that currently exist that caused any failure will cause that failure again, so for long reliability you need to :
- Check and rectify every leak - Ensure system has correct amount of oil for health of new compressor - Check operation of LP, MP and HP switches and corresponding fans. - Check pressures, temps and performance test.
John Stafford DieHard Qld. Soarer UZZ31 GT-L V8, 11 second XR6T
Monday, December 28, 2015 - 05:23 pm, by: John Stafford(Johng12)
Thanks Boris, I have ordered a new compressor and receiver/dryer, will take about a week to come. I would love to get Hichill in the system like I had put in the new compressor that I fitted to the 32 that I had but am having trouble getting someone to do that, hearing that the crook big companies have made it illegal and slimed those who use it, saying that it is dangerous
If you can clarify a couple of issues below that would be great:
"You need to balance the system oil out correctly by measuring the amount of oil from old compressor and measuring oil from the new compressor." Not sure how this can be done as the system has already leaked some of that oil out. Shouldn't there just be a set amount of oil in the refrigerant when it is put in along with die to check for leaks? All the old has to be evacuated first, so is there a way to separate the oil out of the refrigerant and weigh it???
You need to : "Check operation of LP, MP and HP switches and corresponding fans." What are these? Low, medium and high pressure? Corresponding fans must only be the main fan that is an oil filled unit standard for the 31s? My temp is always on normal and the engine does not get hot.
Monday, December 28, 2015 - 08:27 pm, by: Boris Siljanoski(Z2tt)
It's a difficult process to understand to balance the oil out if the compressor has nothing in it then you know you are generally low on oil, if you can drain a decent amount of oil out of it you know it has not been running dry and you add or subtract oil based on what you find.
Yes those are the switches in Soarers with hydrualic powered fans the engine fan ECU will ramp up the speed as required if everything works properly.
If you have been running R134a and continue to run it you have to flush all the oil out and replace with compatible oil, or double up and add new oil.
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