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Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
"1JZ Surgeon"
JZZ30

Posts: 1429
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, October 23, 2006 - 11:31 pm, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Shimmed actuators and modified valve body pressure.

http://jkwebdesign.net/lsocbb/viewtopic.php?t=1915&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

All thats required is two 21mm diameter metal shims with 6-10mm thickness depending on how hard you want the shift.
The valve body pressure can literally be 'turned' up.
Shouldn't take more than 2 hours with a hoist..

I'll be attempting this myself soon.

Cheers,
Cihan.
Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
"1JZ Surgeon"
JZZ30

Posts: 1430
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, October 23, 2006 - 11:36 pm, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Reflections;
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655&page=1&pp=25
Clayton Webb
TryHard
South Australia
'31 V8

Posts: 419
Reg: 09-2005

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Monday, October 23, 2006 - 11:53 pm, by:  Clayton Webb (Clackers) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Nice Find mate. Do you think this is the same one that MV automatics do?
Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
"1JZ Surgeon"
JZZ30

Posts: 1437
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Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 12:25 am, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Doubt it Clayton, MV's probably rework the valvebody physically. I can't say its any better than the shift kit outlined here, and i can't say its not as effective either.

The nicest response i heard regarding this mod was that the shifts were so 'quick' under part throttle that you can't feel them. Thats using 6mm shims on top of the accumulator springs and increasing the base pressure as outlined. When you go foot to the floor it still chirps. Not much else to ask for really.

Reverse is still soft, as is 3rd to OD :-)
Makes it an excellent compromise between performance, auto integrity and comfort. Sounds too good to be true actually, the shift kitted soarers ive been in have always felt a little 'excessive' under daily driving.

---
My (stupid) theory is, if you have to explain to the misses why something feels broken or weired, it means you haven't modified or set it up properly.
They see right through our testosterone driven reasoning for everything .
Robert Petrovski
TryHard
Qld
Soarer TT

Posts: 250
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 05:04 pm, by:  Robert Petrovski (Robche) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have tried this and it does nothing. Not worth the effort. The only difference is it shifts a bit harder at part throttle. At full throttle still pops and farts. No chirping wheels. I used 10mm shims.
Thads Cooke
TryHard
Auckland
Twin Turbo Aristo jzs147

Posts: 127
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 05:47 pm, by:  Thads Cooke (Thadz) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am about to try this mod myself and have heard that it works very well (and not just from the us and uk sites).

My old TT also had a bad popping problem during high throttle shifts and I wonder if perhaps this is being caused by another problem, which no amount of shimming will fix? like maybe a lazy shift solenoid or general wear and tear which is causing the trans to take longer to shift, regardless of the state of the accumulators?

Either way, sorry to hear it didn't work out! The main thing is though: did it do any harm? or just no real improvement?
Brett Harrison
TryHard
QLD
JZZ30

Posts: 123
Reg: 09-2005

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Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 06:19 pm, by:  Brett Harrison (Bretto) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

No no, its perfectly normal for car to pop between gears, and the way toyota wanted it. Reduce shift shock. saves you destroying differentials for starters. I doubt this mod would be very effective, things that are simple and cheap always come at a cost, I'm sure MV wouldn't go to the trouble of a full valve body rework if it was so easy.
Andy Bathie
Newbie
None
Soarer TT

Posts: 2
Reg: 11-2005

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 01:02 am, by:  Andy Bathie (Andy_no_knee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did this mod first and fitted the MV 1.5 shift kit after to see the difference.

Basically there was none that I could see.

So I'm now running with the MV shift kit and 10mm spacers in the shifter spring holes. It is a bit of a dash cracker when it changes, and on WOT it will still fart a bit.

I hope that the shift kit from MV means that there is less chance of the tranny going blat when I give the car a thrashing, as I'm getting close to the power limit on the box.

Single kit (HKS 30307s)with 375rwbhp, looking at about 450 at the engine, the turbo max is around 480bhp (according to the diagram from Manny).

Thinking about manualising the box, maybe with the MV kit, or the Suprastick. Just reading up a lot on here at the moment.

Is there a MV website giving all the details and cost of their box as I'm in the UK and phone is a pain?

Ta very muchly!

PS the popping the the ecu retarding the ignition to create a smooth change, it is a Lexus. The only real way to get rid of it is to bin the ecu......
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
GT4.0 V8

Posts: 6201
Reg: 11-2004

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 04:59 am, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

MV do not have a website.
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland
jzz30 ute / uzz30/ 2 X uzz31

Posts: 1400
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 06:54 am, by:  Lew Radbourn (Marlew) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andy;
MV's
used to have only two kits available.
stage 1 and 2
After talking to Mike
i asked for some thing that will hold the clutch packs tighter so then the 1.5 kit was born
that was back several years ago
since then mike has been able to achieve a valve body that responds to throttle position.
this kit is what we all get now
as far as i know the stage one has been dropped off the list and we all get stage 1.5 with the throttle bit.
the stage 2 is a dash cracking chiropractor sort of change
and even Mike doesn't recommend it for street use
and the tranny should have been beefed up before fitting (just so it lasts a lot longer)

The poping is the retarding of the timing
toyota has done this as a safety measure when changing between gears (safety for engine and trans)
don't forget thay were also designing these cars as a luxo car not a track car.
they were trying to achieve a smooth transition between the gears
so we couldn't even notice the gears were changing at all....
Andy Bathie
Newbie
None
Soarer TT Single conversion

Posts: 3
Reg: 11-2005

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 08:19 am, by:  Andy Bathie (Andy_no_knee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Lew Radbourn wrote on Friday, October 27, 2006 - 06:54 am:

the stage 2 is a dash cracking chiropractor sort of change




Ahh, mine isnt that harsh.

Al 555 sorted mine out when he bought his about a year ago (through you possibly) and I know mine was supposed to be stronger/harsher/1.5 compared to his as it cost more.(?)
Lew Radbourn
Trader
Queensland
jzz30 ute / uzz30/ 2 X uzz31

Posts: 1403
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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 10:23 am, by:  Lew Radbourn (Marlew) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andy
Now i know.
nar mate that cost more because of the Valve body
could not be returned to MV's
it was a cost thing of shipping it back again
Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
"1JZ Surgeon"
JZZ30

Posts: 1441
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 11:51 am, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Robert Petrovski wrote on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 05:04 pm:

I have tried this and it does nothing. Not worth the effort. The only difference is it shifts a bit harder at part throttle. At full throttle still pops and farts. No chirping wheels. I used 10mm shims.



Rob, my understanding is that the accumulators need to be able to hold pressure or they damper the shifts regardless of the shims.
Its understandable that buggered seals won't help shifts as expected at full throttle when pressure is highest.

Upload

These black seals were worn out, we pulled these accumulators off a friends car and the two seals on each accumulator were flush with the outer casing and basically not doing anything. They were replaced by Kewish and we were informed that its common on boxes that have done over 170,000kms or have had poor servicing intervals.

--
These accumulators were modified by Kewish as part of their stage 1.5 shift kit which includes physical valve body modification to elevate pressure. Its mentioned on supra forums by the tranny expert there, that shimming and elevated valvebody pressure goes hand in hand when concerning transmission life. I'd say that general wear and tear can be eliminated by shimming to reduce damping, and actual power holding ability of the box can be increase by increasing gear change fluid pressure, the extent of pressure increase depends on what you want to achieve. You can increase it a little bit by screwing up the pressure by provided means, or you can modify the valvebody like MV and Kewish do.

Makes sense to me?
Robert Petrovski
TryHard
Qld
Soarer TT

Posts: 251
Reg: 07-2005

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Friday, October 27, 2006 - 06:10 pm, by:  Robert Petrovski (Robche) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I did change the seals when I had mine out and upped the pressure on the valve body by turning the screw. Don't get me wrong there is a difference to shift times at full throttle but still the time is too long hence the ignition retarding. I think the pressure required to shift gears instantly is only achievable by machining the valve body as MV do
Cihan Aday
Goo Roo
"1JZ Surgeon"
JZZ30

Posts: 1444
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, October 28, 2006 - 12:36 pm, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Rob i see what your saying. I've got no doubt that the valve body work done by these trans workshops is justifiable.

I've noticed that kewish kits effect the lockup pressure also, it engages harder in third and forth. Thats a sure sign that theres a physical change and somethings peaking in that valve body.

Im planning on getting my transmission guy to do this mod for me next auto service, if there's some noticeable change i'll be happy. The cars creeping above that 300rwhp margin and the auto isn't going to like this for much longer.

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