Monday, September 19, 2005 - 08:18 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
There are always questions popping up regarding aftermarket parts and so forth. It takes alot of questioning before you feel comfortable handing over hundreds of dollars to change something your not positive will have an effect on performance. I was in this boat, and its taken a while to get a straight forward path that makes sense. I hope to add to this guide as work on my car progresses, and others from this forum make amendments. The following was taken and adapted from a post in the mechanical section. I'd like to thank Morgan Cross, Rob Andreacchio, Gareth Richards and Emanuel Spinola for their input.
Intake - BFI Turbo back exhaust FMIC JDM Supra 440cc injectors Apexi SAFC-II 0.7mm Gap Spark Plugs Shift Kit up to 220rwkw @ ~15psi
Dump pipes Electronic Boost Controller Exhaust Camgear (Intake also, if Manual) 2JZ MAP sensor or Fuel Cut Defender up to 240rwkw @~18psi
Neils Steel wheel/Hi flows US Supra 550cc injectors up to 270rwkw @~20psi
ATS hi flow HKS T3Gs GCG hybrids CDI ignition HKS Camshafts (254/264/272) Fuel Pump 650cc injectors 270 to 320rwkw @~21psi
Friday, January 27, 2006 - 11:54 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Okay, ive been looking into ECU upgrade paths for auto 1JZ's and the greddy emanage blue looks like a worthy contender for tuneability.
Prices are as low as $450 for the base unit with main harness, and about $560 express delivered with ignition and injector harnesses. This is all you need to have a solution that not only allows adjustment of fuel mixtures as the S-AFC unit does, but also allows adjustment of ignition advance and retard allowing you to make the most of the mods you've performed. The greddy allows adjustment of fuel and ignition via 16x16 grid maps, where fuel and ignition advance can be incremented or decremented in one percent steps verse the throttle position at custom RPM intervals. This means fuel savings across the board and potentially more power across the board - not simply when under full throttle. The SAFC units dont allow such detailed adjustments (only 8x2 points in 500rpm increments).
Another plus is the ability to clamp MAP sensor signal voltage at a maximum value below the ecu boost cut threshhold. This means removal of boost cut indefinitely. The greddy also provides a sub fuel map that can be used to compensate for additional boost over this threshhold. Your tuner can richen up this part of the map for added protection against leaning out during boost spikes, or simply to allow you to run above 1bar safely.
Another useful feature is being able to set your own RPM limiter. The factory rev limiter can be "shadowed" or "skipped" allowing operation to say 8200rpm or whatever is considered useful with your level of mods.
All of the above parameters and functions can be activated, monitored in realtime and logged on your laptop computer by buying the USB to Emanage cable and software package. This is often reffered to as the "support tool". Ive found that the software is readily available legally, updated and all, from the internet.. im pretty sure its legal as help groups and yahoo support groups are distributing it openly. All you would then need to do is get your hands on a cable (which is expensive, and custom made for the emanage), there are copies circulating out there on ebay and the like.
Overall i consider it a nifty little unit thats easy to self-install, and even self-tune fuel wise on a laptop if you have access to a wideband, and know what your doing
There are members who have installed this unit with good results.
KNOWN ISSUES; - Ignition related failures when tuned using the ignition harness. Cause? ive read that it was related to the first few revisions of the emanage firmware (v1.1-), and that the issue was resolved in later revisions. (any comments are welcome)
POSSIBLE FIXES; - Firmware update, quick and simple done before installation and tune takes place.
TUNING OPTIONS; Most shops that tune imports will be able to install and tune the greddy emanage on a 1JZ soarer as its listed as fully compadible on the greddy site.
SIMPLY - EXPECTED RESULTS; Just trimming off fuel at WOT alone will definitely yield good results. Dyno proven to be as effective as 13-15rwkw in the higher RPM range on a mildly modified 1JZ. Ignition tuning is mainly effective/safe under lower boost conditions, hence lower RPM's. We all know that the 2500cc 1J lacks low end beef in a car this size, ignition advance and a fuel trim has been proven to achieve better response and more torque before the transition to positive manifold pressure takes place. That means cleaner acceleration off the line and better pull in that grey area before boost kicks in.
--------- I will post my results with the unit as the come
If ive misinformed anyone please point it out! And dont be afraid to share your experiences please!
Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:15 am, by: Shane Ilich(Ferret)
so how does the emanage compare to the power fc?
i like the appeal of the plug'n'play properties of the power fc - no extra loom required, just plugs straight onto the existing loom (as i understand it) and replaces the stock ecu.
reason i ask, is im currently in the market for a decent ecu, and am evaluating my options
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 09:18 am, by: Benjamin Burgess(Jampac)
Today I'll talk about the PowerMOD ECU, how it works, what features it has and how its been for me on my auto soarer.
Prices for these units fitted and tuned are around the $1600-$2000 mark. The price depends highly on the dealer you goto and how many units they sell. Redcliffe dyno centre is one dealer I'm aware that moves a lot of these units fitted to Ford XR6 turbos and XR8's. For Sydney siders, Unigroup engineering is an authorized dealer of the PowerMOD ECU. The distributer and developer of the unit is located at DNA Motorsport at whetherill park. This ECU has been wholly developed in Australia so good to support an Aussie made product that works.
The maps on the PowerMod are 17x17 for ignition and 17x17 for Fuel. Increments are every 500rpm up to 10,000rpm. Now the advantage of this unit is fuel and ignition timing changes are totally independent. Now for the novice this probably doesn't make much sense, now what it means is that if the fueling is changed to say take out fuel, then the changes are not going to cause an increase in ignition timing. This may sound a bit weird but you'll find that any unit that uses the MAF or MAP sensor to bend the signal will have this issue (I'll not say the names but its all the "cheaper" interceptors around). Now what this problem can lead to is the eventual running out of ignition timing points especially on a highly modified 1jz or 1uz, making the unit completely useless. The reason why PowerMOD doesn't have this problem is due to the way it intercepts the signals from the factory ecu/sensors. PowerMOD also comes fitted with its own +22psi (relative) MAP sensor built into the unit, so there is no need to purchase 18psi 2jz map sensors or Q45 MAF's for VVTI engines.
As explained above, due to this PowerMod is able to drive both High and Low impedance injectors of just about any size. The unit also doesn't affect standard knock sensor operations (so you'll be ok if you get a bad batch of fuel), and all existing features of the factory ecu should be retained including aircon operation, cold start, idle control, and automatic transmission operation. There is a built in overboost ignition cut so if over boost occurs on a cold night you'll not damage your engine or turbo(s). A replug connector can be used if you wish to quickly remove the unit, reverting back to factory operation (assuming options aren't installed that could affect this).
PowerMOD is able to clamp the MAP sensor signal or MAF on a V8 so fuel cut doesn't occur. Engine redline can be increased by using a special mode called fueler mode that basically bypasses the factory ecu for all fueling above a certain RPM were it governs the fuel and the rpm cut.
You can monitor everything thats going on in realtime if you have the PowerMod software and a laptop, however from last I was told, no customers, unless your special are allowed to have the software as it then enables them to modify the tune which can lead to nasty things happening and the tuner is blamed.
There is addons for this unit which include a ability to use GM based 3bar absolute map sensors (thats +30psi relative), Launch control, Electronic boost solenoid controller (software is able to drive haltech solenoids that are about $120), Two auxiliary function outputs, Nitrous wet and dry system control including additional fuel mapping for dry system, RPM activated solenoid control, Gear change shift light, intercooler spray and extra fuel pump enable.
The disadvantages of the unit that I have found include the need for 2 working cam angle sensors. The factory ecu only needs one cam angle sensor functioning to work. If you have one of the sensors fail then it causes random engine cutouts to occurs when PowerMod is connected. It can sometimes mask factory ecu fault codes, mostly of ignition or general electrical system error. PowerMOD is also unable to do speed cut, so you'll need a speed cut defender or better still an Apexi RSM. Other than this you'll not even notice your car has an aftermarket computer on it other than the massive increase in power. As an example I had my near factory (only a pod filter) soarer tuned with the PowerMod, an initially it was making about 156rwkw on around 10psi of boost. After tuning was done and boost increased to 13psi, power was 192rwkw. From memory it made about 172rwkw on the same boost level as the 156rwkw figure, giving an increase of about 16rwkw with just fuel trimming.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 10:45 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Benjamin, would you happen to know how the PowerMOD does its fuel and ignition 'fudging'? The greddy intercepts and alters the TPS + MAP signals to derive the desired operating conditions, as you pointed out.
Im curious as to how else its done!
So basically the only advantage of the emanage at this stage is cost, and self tunability with the ability to change settings and maps to suit your current driving style status. The greddy should be able to run a GM map sensor with just a tune to suit. I think it might even have a conversion tool so all the trim/advance percentages are automatically set to handle the new resolution. I know for certain this is the case when fitting larger injectors, no tuning required!
Cheers mate. Cihan.
PS. Ive read (Neil.G i think) that 1JZ knock sensors only operate from 1800 - 5600 rpm.. so we might want to be careful when self tuning with a knocklight or the like hehe.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 11:42 am, by: Benjamin Burgess(Jampac)
PowerMOD modifies the fuel by directly altering the injector duty cycle. It can do this due to having its own injector drivers on the ECU, and due to this can drive high and low impedance injectors. The MAP sensor is clamped and its use with TPS is complicated in the scheme of things which I probably shouldn't go into due to legal reasons, but needless to say, its a very unique way of doing it and of course leads to no fuel/ignition related modification problems that usually occur on interceptors.
The ignition timing is modified off the base ecu timing, so if the ecu retards so does the PowerMOD (difficult to tell when this occurs as you'd need a timing gun while doing a power run on the dyno). Its not HARD ignition as some people call it (ie full ecu type ignition timing), more SOFT ignition timing. There are pros and cons to both methods, depending on your desired use for the vehicle.
Retuning after dropping in a big set of injectors is just a matter of calculating the percentage flow change and inputing this value.
The best way of thinking of PowerMod is a full ecu thats not quiet a full ecu and an interceptor thats not quiet an interceptor. Its mixes both types together attempting to take the best of both worlds. In my opinion its the ecu of choice on an auto soarer if you plan to keep the auto auto but want over 300rwkw on a daily driver that can still run a 11 or even better at the strip.
I know of one vehicle thats running 9's that has one fitted and a 500hp NA (was a 4.1L this one) porsche rsr that has one.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 12:03 pm, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
On the topic of changing map sensors. My wolf 3d v4 has a 2.5 bar map sensor inbuilt and I have a GM 3 bar map which will be wired soon.
All I did was calculate what each load value represented in psi for the 2.5 bar and 3 bar. Copied the data from the current map into excel, and copied most data into the new map. There was only one section that was half way between psi points on the 2.5 bar map.
So in theory it should run exactly the same as before. And now I can tune to 23psi or so and still have a safety margin above that if it overboosts.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 05:40 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Sounds like a very good unit Probably worth it over the emanage if your aiming for 270rwkw+.
The emanage does modify injector pulse width, i will confirm this.
If i had the money id go for the PowerMOD definately, although i like the fact i can log everything in realtime and play it back from my laptop when ever i want.. then make adjustments accordingly in my own time.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 07:18 pm, by: Ben Vandie(Vandie)
So If I wanted to go down the path of a large single (well say a T-78), then the PowerMod ECU would be the best option for an Auto? thankyou very much for this awesome info!
Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 08:22 am, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
although i like the fact i can log everything in realtime and play it back from my laptop when ever i want.. then make adjustments accordingly in my own time.
That is what I currently do with my wideband and will be able to do very soon with the Wolf. It is going to make tuning A LOT easier!
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 09:16 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Ahh yes on that note a little update, i installed the Greddy emanage last night, just the basic loom, no ignition or injector harness.
Now running 15psi with no boost/fuel cut issues, leaning out upto 15% (using RPM references and simple ratios calculations on a calculator) over the stock fuel map based on a few dyno printouts i have.
The Emanage clamps MAP sensor voltage to 5.00 volts automatically (no laptop required), effectively a fuel cut defender. I also connected the grey wire to the ECU throttle position sensor input, even though its not specifified anywhere in the emanage installation booklet. From what i can read and gather, only the emanage ultimate harness is meant to have the grey TPS connector installed with the default harness.. Not sure about that one, but everything is working fine and im happy with the results so far.
I will have the support tool along with the ignition and injector harness up and running when i get an data cable...
I used the following settings with the three adjustment rotary knobs; 7, 4 and 0 in order. This specifies number of cylinders, Map sensor and ignition type (i think).
1st gear wheelspins until gearchange without stalling on 235mm falken 326's, dont seem like a good tyre. Looking at some preceda's or neo's all round
Cheers, Cihan.
ps. cant wait until i get a FMIC, redo my CAI and get ignition and fuel fully tuned The car has really come alive with only dump back exhaust, EBC and emanage. Stock cooler takes a fair bit of putting about to heatsoak too far with this colder weather, also something to consider.
Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 08:27 am, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
Sounds good Cihan. So the emanage is something that someone with moderate knowlodge of how it all works could install?
I am not very confident with wiring and that is why I am getting a pro to do my wolf for ignition timing.
If your emanage has the stock 1jz map in it, what are the rpm and load increments? Ie. My wolf currently goes up to 1.5bar which = 107 load. Rpm is easiest to do in 500rpm intervals. Just wondering if you could do a print screen on the ignition map and post it up so that I can input it into my wolf. I have the base map from wolf but I think it is VERY base so would like to start with a stock map if possible.
Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 11:10 am, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Yes definately, if you know your stuff its easy to install. You dont really need to know much, if anything as its all presented to you in diagrams and instructions. The only thing is troubleshooting, its alot easier when you know a little about how the engine reacts to various sensors not being connected etc.
I dont think the greddy or any other piggyback computer can actually read the static ignition or fuel maps and display the outputs, they only alter timing in degree increments and fuel in percentage increments. I will confirm this with you once i have the other harnesses installed and the data tool installed, i maybe wrong.
The WOLF is standalone, so id imagine you would start off with a heavily 'retarded' map before you start the car and increment them until it drives okay and idles the way you want. I would be sure to get it tuned to an AF ratio of about 12.3:1 or slightly higher and use ignition timing to counter knock, rather than thethe more common method of running overly rich (~11:1) and not altering timing much. You'll make more power, save fuel and not overload the engine. You'll gain alot of low-midrange power by tuning timing as the stock map is setup for the tiny stockies.
Try driving without any of the turbo piping etc connected to the TB, it drives fine until ~2500rpm and bogs down suddenly. Im guessing this is timing related where its retarded expecting boost (timing map is pretty much staic, unlike the boost map which is altered according to MAP sensor input) - possibly whats causing issues with your large turbo spooling consistanly enough to make the topend your expecting.
Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 11:22 am, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
The wolf base map I have just looked REALLY base. Looks like it is about a quarter done. I also have a map in there now which is tuned for a turbo mx5 so the same basic principles apply.
The wolf isn’t doing timing yet so that is still the big issue to get sorted. Will be very soon though. I have new coil packs and just need the correct length leads and it will be off to the sparky.
Yeah, I know the stock 1jz map is not ideal for my turbo but it should be “ok” or at least better than the base map I assume. I may try loading the base map in and see how it goes compared to the mx5 map (which looks conservative 11deg advance once on boost)
I have a guy putting my jaycar super ear kit together for me as I found out that it is beyond my electrical skills so that should be done in about a week or so. Then get this ignition sorted and start some tuning.
I am aiming for 11.8:1 a/f on boost and we will see what sort of timing it can run safely with 98 octane, then 100 octane and then 100 plus 30% toluene.
Wednesday, February 08, 2006 - 02:39 pm, by: Michael Banazis(Banazis)
I've enjoyed reading this thread so- lots of good info
One question I have is how the emanage compares to the emanage ultimate? I've read the sales spiels but I would like to know what all the mumbo-jumbo actually means in the real world!
Using the Ultimate, you can lean out the air fuel ratio without altering the MAP sensor signal to the ECU.
You dont just splice into the three injector wires from the ECU, you completely cut and resolder them - the emanage ultimate controls the injectors.
Also, the Ultimate does temperature correction, coolant temp etc.
Not much of a difference for sub 250rwkw cars. Above this, running the Blue emanage can get a little hairy if you dont know the tuning tricks, and there are a few.
Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 06:56 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
A little update, Ive got the emanage blue hooked up doing full ignition and fuel. Ive spent a lot of time tuning it and making it feel just right.
So far, running ~14.3psi, injector duty cycle hits 82% under wide open throttle at 5,000rpm.
So, im at about 215rwkw at with 14 something psi Maybe more. Looks like its nearing time for 440's.
Timing has made a lovely difference to drivability and response, no bogging off the line; just rapid acceleration and minimised difference between boost and no boost. I've also spent a few hours taking and making log files of daily driving and partial boost situations. I've used them to make timing and fuelling adjustments carefully. A few degree's where it matters means the difference between unlocking the torque converter or powering up the hill with the converter locked.
Also been experimenting with some high rpm ignition retard when there is no throttle application. Second gear for example, take it to 80kph and let go. It engine brakes and slows the car down. Taking out the right amount of timing stops this happening. Not sure how useful it is, but it may help carry more speed through a corner and keep the arse end from pulling out.
Sunday, November 19, 2006 - 10:42 am, by: Chris Davey(Chris_davey)
The intake cam has the tabs for the cam position sensor. If the ecu detects that the cam has been moved in relation to the crank then it goes into limp mode.
Monday, November 20, 2006 - 11:57 am, by: Marc Vipond(04awe)
JUN units unfortunately have a little too much lift at 9.3mm and will necessitate the purchase of new valve springs. HKS 264 inlet and exhaust is probably the most sensible upgrade for a balance of driveablility/power/money.
Oh nah Im actually asking about the cam gears, like this: http://store.titanmotorsports.com/gr2jcamge.html Im just wondering if all aftermarket cam gear will physically fit up against the stock ones (if your only going to change the exhaust cam gear only), like will they be the same size, with the same amount of teeth, etc?
Monday, November 27, 2006 - 12:28 pm, by: Toan Nguyen(Soarer_gt)
Hey Cihan.
The engine braking when you lift off in 2nd is the stock BOV not opening enough and getting compressor surge. Either that or the air hits the front turbo and surges it before it gets to the bov. I had this problem when I started getting a bit more power. Chris C has this exact same problem at the moment.
I only fixed it recently with a Blitz BOV I bought on the forums. Placed it between the front turbo and the cooler (I had a suspicion the stockie was failing to exhaust all the pressure). And problem is solved. The stock BOV location is crap, and the hole from the cooler pipe to the stock bov is only 1/4" or something.
Worth a try. I'm in Springvale South if you wanna test my BOV theory on your car.
Saturday, December 30, 2006 - 04:37 pm, by: Mark Dempsey(1jzpwa)
Hey guys as you can see im new here, I'll start off by saying i've got a 1994 Soarer TT. I'm starting to get to the stage where i want to start modifying her (had it for 2 months now) first thing i want done is a 1.5 shift from MV autos. I had always planned turbo-back exhaust and front mount after it, but now that im considering the benefits of a single turbo conversion, i don't really want to have everything set up for a twin system and then have more expenses if somewhere down the track i do intend on going single.
Basically my first question is what apart from the shift kit and maybe an e-manage or apexi avc-r that will improve performance but not effect a twin or single setup?
Am i making any sense whatsoever?
Ben Socratous Goo Roo SA I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!
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