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Robert Hayden
Moderator
Victoria
5 x 1991 UZZ32, 1991 UZZ32 Supercharged, 1994 UZZ32, 2 x UCF11 Celsior 1990, 2 x Ferrari Testarossa, Range Rover Vogue SE.

Posts: 959
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 09:51 am, by:  Robert Hayden (The_boss) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A lot of the 91 - 93 V8 Soarers are starting to develop water leaking issues.

on the drivers side of the engine, towards the front and under the exhaust manifold there is a metal coverplate that enters directly into the water gallery on the engine block.

It is held in place by two 12mm nuts and comes off quite easily. There is no actual seal behind it, only Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket) type material.

Over the years this FIPG is now starting to give up the ghost and create water leaking issues.

Very hard to see, particularly on a UZZ32, where it is partially obscured by the hydraulic pump, but definately worth checking out.

Symptoms:

Gurgling or 'rushing' water sounds in your heater box, particularly on start up.

Low water bling message appearing often on dashboard.

Milky white coloured spray being blown down under the car. This comes from the red Toyota coolant drying and leaving a white powdery residue on the metal under the car.

Any one with an alternator or power steering issue on a V8, and certainly any 32 owners that need to have the active pmp serviced really need to look at resealing this little bugger.

Imagine spending 11 hours to R and R the active pump and then next month getting a water leak!! You would want to kick your own backside if you had neglected or was not aware of the potential problems that this little fella can cause.

Here's pics of a particularly bad leak. (On one of my actives). The pink coloured powder is the dried Toyota red coolant.


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Robert Hayden
Moderator
Victoria
5 x 1991 UZZ32, 1991 UZZ32 Supercharged, 1994 UZZ32, 2 x UCF11 Celsior 1990, 2 x Ferrari Testarossa, Range Rover Vogue SE.

Posts: 960
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 09:55 am, by:  Robert Hayden (The_boss) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Now here's a question for the mechanical boffins out there...Neil and others.

Should this metal plate be cleaned up and simply refitted using another layer of FIPG or tripple bond?

Or is there a better way?

Would it not be better to get a small length of oil and heat resistent rubber sheeting about 2mm thick and actually manufacturer (cut out) a 'proper' gasket for this plate.

The plate itself appears to be strong, and I just wonder if it wouldn't be better to pull down on a proper formed rubber gasket and sandwich this against the block to create a better seal.

Opinions please?
Neil Griffiths
Trader
NSW
212Kw @ 8psi MANUAL Super Charged UZZ31 :-)

Posts: 3148
Reg: 07-2005

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Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 03:38 pm, by:  Neil Griffiths (Aussiesc) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The distance between the bolts will not have enough force to clamp down on a gasket of sorts.

( Otherwise Toyota would have done it )

Use sealer ONLY.

Dont try to be clever, and have to repair it latter on.

You will find the ones that leak are the cars who's cooling system has not been maintained.

This will start PRIOR to the new owners maintanance.

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