Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 08:18 am, by: James Paton(Mys013)
Ive had this annoying issue since I have owned the car and it is really bothering me now. When the car is cold and I go to start it for the first time, it will crank and crank and refuse to start, the next turn of the key it will crank and start no worries(although sometimes rough). This will happen without fail, the car will only start first go when it is warm.
What I usually do when it is cold is turn the key and let it crank for a split second and then off and then start it again and it will kick over.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 12:30 pm, by: Matt Shields(Smokeyvip)
when you do get it going when cold, does it idle up over 1k? or does it stay low, around 600?
if it doesn't get over 1k then i'd be looking for a cold start valve blockage. that being said, i dont even know if the 1uzfe uses a cold start or if its done through the throttle butterfly. if so, clean your throttle body.
another thing to try, is turn the key to acc for a little while, and let the fuel pump prime - you'll hear it whirr, then stop. then turn the key. also try a little throttle opening to try 'catch' it when u turn the key - but that's not a solution to whatever is causing the problem just a way around it.
the fact that it's starting fine when warm makes me think firstly cold start system....could be sticking shut. but the fact that its starting second time every time when cold, makes me think fuel. investigate and put findings up for others.
1. Check valve in fuel pump not working causing fuel to leak back into the tank. Try replace the fuel pump. From what I understand it's ok for the pressure to drop, but as long as there is still fuel present in the line it's ok as pressure is restored once you crank.
2. Maybe there could be a restriction in the fuel filter causing problems, try replace the fuel filter.
3. The cold start injector could be leaking fuel into the manifold slowly. To check this take it out, turn the car on for a while then turn it off, you can then watch for signs of fuel.
4. Fuel Pressure Regulator.
5. Injectors leaking fuel over night, clean injectors.
6. It could be a possibility that valve stem seals are leaky, causing oil to pool up into the cylinder and when started it may have a hard time starting.
7. Maybe the fuel pump ECU, I remember people having problems with starting the car while it's warm, what about cold?
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 - 07:13 am, by: James Paton(Mys013)
Hey guys... thanks for the responses.
It does idle up to 1k+ after it has been started. Throttle body has been pulled off and cleaned thoroughly.
Petrol cap has been replaced and it does release pressure when filling up at the station.
One thing I havent touched yet is the fuel pump, it was on my mind as a cause. Fuel filter was changed about a month ago. Never thought about FPR. Injectors have been removed and cleaned a few months ago. Will check out the other options listed... its starting to get annoying now.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 - 10:59 am, by: David Barnes(Toyota_celsior)
Every celsior I have own has had start stumble, Cleaning the idle control valve always helps. But never eliminated the problem.
Still remove and clean idle control valve.
Also soarer boys get this problem all the time, fuel pump ecu plays up, can be tells if thats the problem by bridging some terminals in the diagnosis port. (not sure which one, quick seach on this site would tell you) But that is not a fix, just a way to tell if its not working as it should, you will still require a replacement fuel pump ecu for saftey reasons.
Just my 2 cents worth. My celsior had the exact same problem, drove me crazy for 2 months. In fact, I read this thread looking for help. I tried every suggestion. A quick diagnostic showed code 12. Rpm signal 1. Checked my cam position sensor and found a bare wire. Wrapped it in electrical tape, starts up perfectly now. Even on a cold morning! Worth checking.
Sunday, July 11, 2010 - 10:47 am, by: Ben Rowe(Blinga)
I've had issues like that. Need a boot of gas to get it to fire over. The bearings in the idle bypass valves were seized in the normal idle position. Where as cold start the valve opens that fraction more for higher idle say round 1k.. Pull the unit apart and press off the old bearings replace with new. The bearings only cost about $3.50 each. Just take em into a bearing shop they are a common size. When you re install the idle bypass make sure its fully open. use plenty of anti seize on it and it should work a treat. Cheaper than sourcing another unit. Easy fix to do.