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Boris Siljanoski
DieHard
Western Australia
Soarer GZ20 TT

Posts: 726
Reg: 11-2007

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Friday, April 02, 2010 - 08:36 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Great, Good luck fitting the AU's, let us know how you go about it.
Mike Beck
Goo Roo
New Zealand
325i Coupe

Posts: 4454
Reg: 11-2005

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 04:35 am, by:  Mike Beck (Gold_40gt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


David Vaughan wrote on Friday, April 02, 2010 - 05:23 pm:

Matt, you have no idea what you are talking about, and I mean that in the nicest possible way.






Deary me.

I am with David on this one.
Anthony Matthews
TryHard
Western Australia
Soarer GT Limited V8

Posts: 148
Reg: 04-2006

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 10:59 am, by:  Anthony Matthews (Gajet) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Toyota DNA + Ford DNA = Red headed step child??

I mean...good luck. Sounds like an interesting project.
Can't say there's much that I think an AU Ford Falcon motor could improve on a 1UZ, but an interesting medical experiment none the less
Cihan Aday
Moderator
etuner.com.au
JZZ30

Posts: 3213
Reg: 07-2005

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 01:56 pm, by:  Cihan Aday (Cihan) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Man i hate it when electric fans kick in. If you do it, use a variable controller or something to keep it nice at least.
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 67
Reg: 01-2010

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 05:44 pm, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeh righto, this place is like walking into a morgue. so much negativity and nay-saying.

i was going to post an update with pics, considering i've nearly knocked this over in an afternoon - just some minor wiring left to do. but doesn't seem like anyone is remotely interested anyway, so if anyone is curious about doing a similar mod in the future, feel free to PM me.

and cihan, a variable controller with digital readout is being used. just need to work out the best way to tap in for a reading. there is a brass fitting that can go into the bottom of the radiator, but i need to find out what removing that is going to do. anyone know of any blanks places in the water system? otherwise it will be a temp probe under the radiator hose.
Mike Beck
Goo Roo
New Zealand
325i Coupe

Posts: 4459
Reg: 11-2005

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 06:14 pm, by:  Mike Beck (Gold_40gt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Matt Shields wrote on Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 05:44 pm:

yeh righto, this place is like walking into a morgue. so much negativity and nay-saying.




Welcome to Soarer Central :-)
Boris Siljanoski
DieHard
Western Australia
Soarer GZ20 TT

Posts: 730
Reg: 11-2007

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 07:04 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You'll always get that, we can't all agree on the same thing.
Rich O'neil
DieHard
Queensland
90 Celsior

Posts: 562
Reg: 05-2006

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 07:09 pm, by:  Rich O'neil (Kiwiinaus) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

As to the pump not running you can just use a shorter belt .
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 68
Reg: 01-2010

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Saturday, April 03, 2010 - 07:34 pm, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i dont need to worry about that, ls400 does not have the hydraulic driven system. it is a basic viscous coupling. belt runs as per normal, but only difference is it's no longer turning a dirty great fan that weighs about 8-10kg.

and again, if anyone knows of a good place to tap a sensor in. i'm thinking i can also use the ecu temp sensor in the top of the water pump.....? that will send a decreasing voltage signal as temp increases with resistance?
Aaron Mead
Goo Roo
NT
Celsior 1UZ-FE Mines, JZZ30 1.5JZ-GTE To4z

Posts: 2866
Reg: 03-2006

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Sunday, April 04, 2010 - 03:02 pm, by:  Aaron Mead (Aaron) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

you could buy one of those inline radiator hose 'probe' joiners. Basically you cut a radiator hose, and this part goes in between them, secured by hose clamps on both sides. It has threaded and plugged holse to take a number of sensors.
SOmething like this (they come in various sizes)


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Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1228
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 05, 2010 - 10:08 am, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I haven't read anything here since the first post, but you are a fool if you decide to remove the hydro fan and replace it with AU thermo's.

As good as AU thermos are (I use them on pretty much every engine conversion I do), the hydrofan will sh!t on them from a great height.

Just source the required parts and replace it.

You'll be lucky to get change from $300-$400 for a thermo fan conversion.
Rich O'neil
DieHard
Queensland
90 Celsior

Posts: 563
Reg: 05-2006

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Monday, April 05, 2010 - 11:28 am, by:  Rich O'neil (Kiwiinaus) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew like I was you are confused , he has a LS400 not a Celsior therefore he does not have the hydraulic system , just an engine driven fan with a viscous type clutch , so he is probably better off with thermo's !!
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1229
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 05, 2010 - 04:51 pm, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ahh, I saw the word 'hydraulic' in the first sentence and missed the word 'clutch'

I still think you are crazy to change to thermo's, mainly for the $$ value this time.

A second hand viscous clutch from a 1JZGTE would be like $50, versus $250ish to convert to thermo's.

30 mins work compared to about 4-6hrs.

Unbolt old clutch, unbolt fan from clutch, bolt new clutch to fan, bolt clutch to car. beer.
vs
unbolt old clutch, remove everything to get to radiator, drain coolant, unbolt everything attached to radiator, remove radiator, bolt pulley back on with washers as spacers, put radiator on bench, remove shroud, put AU shroud on radiator, trim where necessary, fab up something to bolt AU shroud to radiator, fit radiator back in car, remove bolt on top of thermostat housing, drill/tap hole for thermofan switch sensor, fit sensor, find IG+12V wire, fit relay, fit fuse, wire up thermos to battery/trigger/IG/earth, fill with coolant, test, hope, win. beer.

Seems like a no brainer.

Unless you want the challenge, in which case, go for your life.
David Vaughan
Goo Roo
Relaxed
IS300

Posts: 4887
Reg: 07-2005

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Monday, April 05, 2010 - 07:18 pm, by:  David Vaughan (Davidv) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You have to understand Matt's point of view, Andrew. Karl Mohr was lost pages ago and even Newton is going down.

Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 69
Reg: 01-2010

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Monday, April 05, 2010 - 09:49 pm, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

all done and dusted guys.

very pleased with the result.

ended up using a joiner as pictured above, but in anodized black, so not so ricey.

wiring took the most time, mainly because i wanted it all hidden, but also because of the massive intial draw on the thermos i had to use some pretty serious hardware. not helped by the fact that the control box of the digital controller could only withstand 20Amps, so i had to use it as a trigger only for a 40Amp relay and wire from there. tested with the A/C running, stereo up, and HID's on, the thermo's kicking in didn't phase the alternator at all. 100amp alternator is up to the job it seems.
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 70
Reg: 01-2010

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 08:08 am, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

baptism of fire, drove it to work today, 70km trip 90% highway, 10% stop start traffic. The car seemed to sit around 93degrees going up to 97ish at stages.

I had the controller setup low for safety sake, switching the fans on at 98 degrees and cooling back to 90.

my question i guess now is what is the ideal operating temp? if i set the fans to come on at say 105, cooling back to 93?? any other opinions?

(the way the controller works is once a set temp is hit, it cools back 8 degrees from that point)
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1230
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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 09:01 am, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've always had my thermo's come on at 95 and off at 90.

The car should sit around 85-88 cruising on the open road.

IMO anything over 100 is getting too hot
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1231
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 09:09 am, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I've used the TFS106 in every thermofan conversion
http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2014
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 71
Reg: 01-2010

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 09:55 am, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ok thanks for that.

some research from coolant companies has said that most engines are being designed for an ideal operating temp of 215F, so about 101 degrees. argument being that it allows the engine to get hot enough to boil any water from the oil, but that the oils are good enough quality to withstand the heat.

so i'm going to set it for 102 and cool it back to 94. see how it behaves.

also did a coolant change, very quickly - and my christ - i felt ashamed for my car, the previous owner had clearly neglected that area of servicing. my old man walked past and saw the buckets of old water and said 'oh, are you changing the oil?' thats how dark and dirty the water was! just did a quick 50/50 mix using off the shelf stuff as the car will need the water pump done in the next couple of months.
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1232
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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 10:33 am, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If the ideal temp was 101degC then the thermostat would be set at about 98degC.

Generally the coolant (while cruising) will sit about 3-5degC above the thermostat opening temperature, which is 82degC.

You should also only use Toyota Red for the coolant.
50/50 mix with distilled water.
David Barnes
TryHard
Qld
Celsior V8

Posts: 440
Reg: 06-2008

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 12:15 pm, by:  David Barnes (Toyota_celsior) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Prices on thermo conversions seem a bit expensive on this thread.

Just converted my mates 1j z20 soarer to au thermos,

The fans cost $60 from the wreakers (if you must have brand new then its only $115) and a controller cost $15

Not sure where these figures of $250+ are comming from.

Au thermos sound like crap and put a heap of load of the alternator, but they do a good job, Better then stock?? doubt it, but if they do the job and cheaper to replace and easyer then stock, then do it.

Too many haters on this forum. And for people who think people other manfacturers parts on a toyota is wrong, Do you seriously think Toyota makes all the parts on these cars? Of corse not haha.
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 73
Reg: 01-2010

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 12:45 pm, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yeah, dave, all my costs basically came from the controller and associated wiring.

costs were basically:

au fans $100 (cheapest i could find new on ebay was $170 del)
digital controller $160
thermo sensor housing $30
40 amp glass fuse holder (had to use a stereo one) $20
and then about 40 bucks for a 40amp relay, 50amp wiring and all the connectors and terminals.

so i admit, it wasn't cheap, and could definitely be done cheaper but i have a nasty affliction with my car, where i can't sleep properly if i know something has been done on the cheap.


that being said, coolant was just a temporary. i will definitely be getting genuine coolant put in as timing belt and water pump is being done at toyota.

in terms of noise, to be honest, they cannot be heard from in the cabin - i kept putting my window down at the lights to check if they were working or not and even then had a hard time. and compared to my clutch fan seized on and running flat out, they are 10 times quieter!

also the throttle response is noticeably better, admittedly i had a few days of the clutch fan seized on which was absoloutley murdering performance, but now it feels much nicer again.

just hurts a bit, if it wasn't broken there is no way i would have fixed/replaced it. that money could have got me my new exhaust and i would MUCH prefer that sound. so yeah.....cars....why must we love them so!
David Barnes
TryHard
Qld
Celsior V8

Posts: 441
Reg: 06-2008

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 01:27 pm, by:  David Barnes (Toyota_celsior) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

$160 for a fan controller! :S Wowsa :S bit prices for what is $1 worth of electronic parts.

The controller kits I get are $15 and come with all the required sensors relays and fuses.
Matt Shields
Tinkerer
VIC
V8

Posts: 75
Reg: 01-2010

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 01:38 pm, by:  Matt Shields (Smokeyvip) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

well where were you at the start of this thread with that info

i investigated plenty of options from as expensive as the spal units at over 250 bucks, down to the jaycar sensor kit for 24, to the more mechanical methods of tridon thermo switches, and even pick-a-part stuff like magna switches.

spal was too much, and didnt even give you any display info.

davies craig stuff was given the black ball by a mate who has been through two failures, also pretty ancient technology and looks pretty messy in the engine bay.

tridon switch would have been good, but i didn't know of anywhere other than the factory locations (radiator ortop of thermostat housing) to tap one in, and i couldnt get confirmation of what was safe to replace without upsetting something else.

in the end, this was the most reliable and confident way for me to do it. but its a nifty little gadget - in cabin display, monitors the temp live and obviously can adjust the settings. tell you what though, i had heaaaps of fun running the wiring through the grommet in the firewall and down through the dash!

also monitors voltage and gives a warning if the alternator is overcharging or undercharging, which is good peace of mind with the hit to the elctrical system the thermos give when they come on.
Boris Siljanoski
DieHard
Western Australia
Soarer GZ20 TT

Posts: 743
Reg: 11-2007

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 01:42 pm, by:  Boris Siljanoski (Z2tt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good Work.
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1233
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 01:56 pm, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


David Barnes wrote on Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 12:15 pm:

Not sure where these figures of $250+ are comming from.



Because thats what genuine Bosch ones cost (RRP is about $250)

The cheap Chinese imported ones are the ones you are speaking of.

(unless they've DRASTICALLY been reduced in price in the last couple of years)
Andrew Ferres
Goo Roo
WA
'90 C-F Celsior V8, '84 Soarer V8

Posts: 1234
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 02:02 pm, by:  Andrew Ferres (Peewee) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Here is where I put mine.


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