Saturday, October 17, 2009 - 10:45 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
hehe she's my baby
now tho i have a strange problem that has popped up.. i cant seem to get my keys out of the ignition!! i can only get it to the second acc position and thats it! wont go any further and wont come out until i pull a terminal off the battery.. what can cause this anyone?? also just had to pull my carpc out as it didnt power up at all during this whole process of trying to get my key back. as soon as it was out tho it powered up no problem. i have sealed all positive and neutral power connections so theres no rubbing on anything..
but yeah mainly how the hell do i get my key back without disconnecting the battery??
Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 12:09 am, by: David Grima(Maltezr)
Walter good to see the progress you have done on your Soarer mate. I haven't been back to reading this thread for a while now since you started. That key thing happened to me once about a year ago or so, It was bloody frustrating not being able to get it out, but after about 10 or so minutes it finally came out, WEIRD??? Are you saying you had to disconnect the battery terminal to get it out? Also that boost gauge you have looks sweet, what brand is it?
Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 12:18 am, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
yeah i finally got it out. but i had to disconnect the battery to do so, disconnect, flick the key back to start then off and out. but as soon as i connected it back up again it would do the same thing. until i left the battery disconnected for a while. connected it after 20 mins. and all is fine.. very weird indeed.
the boost gauge is a brand called metec digital one stepper motor gauge, the boost sensor/sender is mounted on the brake booster signal wires coming in through hole in firewall on drivers side up to boost gauge. it works pretty well but theres a few milliseconds delay in response.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 12:33 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
thats what i was thinking. but i did put it into gear and back to park numerous times and it still didnt budge! fiddled with the switches down there and found that when i depress the brake pedal sometimes the little latch wouldnt let go... so i reckon you could be spot on there peter.
i am yet to get under the car and check all chassis ground spots and such. have to give the underside a once over. cant expect everything to still be tight after 15 years.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 09:47 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Try putting it into park while the engine is running, then pushing forward on the selector until you hear a click (do not depress the selector button on top of the selector stick while you push it forward or it won't work) - now you should be able to switch off and remove your key - it sounds like the switch has shifted. Had this happen in my car and it was a couple of weeks before I could fix it, but this trick worked every time. Of course it could be an electrical break or something else.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 11:11 pm, by: Aaron Casey(Blownminiturbo)
coming along well walter hadnt seen pics for a while looking much better good to see you are putting in some hard yards to bring her back to her former glory
Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 06:29 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
update. the key thing was the shift selector. only happens when i have the surround off so it doesnt fully click into P position. lol sorted.
now i think my alternator is dead. symptoms... full charged battery.. stick it in. start, leave running for an hour or so. kill it. then thats it wont turn over. theres nothing drawing on it when the car is off as it holds the same charge for days. but when i start her and run it then turn it off and try to start it again i get nothing. until it dies right down and the starter motor starts clicking....
Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 12:13 am, by: James Livas(Falcon)
Definitely sounds like the alternator. Try running a multimeter over the battery while the car is running. You should get a reading of around 14 volts.
Another thing to test is will the car start again after it has cooled down? If it does, then theres a possibility of starter motor cables running too close to hot engine parts. (not sure if this can ever really be an issue on the Soarer, as the exhaust is on the opposite side)
Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 06:03 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
On the selector problem, check your engine mounts too, I discovered my engine mount lower left hand nut had dissapeared on Saturday after investigating an annoying vibration that had started up!
Unfortunately because of some surgery this weekend was the first time I had been able to get under the car to investigate, so it had been going on for several weeks.
Replaced the missing nut and washer and now my transmission selection is much improved also, in fact I probably didn't need to adjust it in the first place, if the mount had been the problem all along - I guess the whole thing was just a bit skewed with the nut not being there to hold the left side of the engine down. Still got an an annoying vibration at idle though its much improved. I'll have to take another look this weekend.
Could the starting issue be solenoid related? Perhaps its sticking when it gets hot?
Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:56 am, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
multimeter reads 12.3 volts when car is running. tested at the battery posts.
i wish you a speedy recovery matthew. i checked the engine mounts and they are sweet. the starter kicks no worries when theree a freshly charged battery in there.
Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 10:13 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Yeah, I'm all better now, more or less - will take a few more weeks for the incision to fully heal up, but I can move around properly now anyway. If only cars healed themselves!
Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 03:03 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
thats good. from the sounds of it you had a knee operation??
how grand it would be if the nano tech was out for car's to repair themselves. i'm sure it is. its not too hard to turn carbon matter into steel and various metals. its all about the number of atoms in a molecule. but controlling the nano bots to stop building molecules.. and controlling their direction and when they need to terminate themselves......
question... if i get a 90 amp alternator of perhaps a 100amp alternator would i need to revise some of the wiring in my car to handle the current load?
Friday, November 06, 2009 - 06:11 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
No, I had a Pilonidal Sinus sliding flap repair Look it up if you are curios but be warned its pretty gross! Basically meant I couldn't sit for about a week, or bend much for about two weeks as they had cut an 8 inch chunk out of my butt, hence not being able to get down onto the floor of the garage to check out the underside of the car.
Hmm, you could have a car that sucked up all the other cars around it via nanobots - and end up with some kind of unstoppable hedgemonising supercar....
I think all would be well with a larger alternator, as ampage is a measure of maximum load capacity, not how much load is actually applied to the wires - electrical devices attached to a circut will only draw as many amps as they need. Obviously if you attach high draw devices to existing wiring, like say adding in a huge amp on the factory amp wiring, you might have some issues, but at that point you should be putting new wiring in.
Friday, November 06, 2009 - 05:44 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
hahaha that does sound gross. i'll hold back on looking it up for now
cheers for clearing that up too. i know that devices will only draw as much as they need. but my electrician housemate was saying silly things. such as run two alternators or dual batteries lol. i have uprated quite a number of cars alternators before with no problems. just nothing as electrically complex as the soarer tho. its not really that complex. just sounds flashy when i say it
Friday, November 06, 2009 - 11:00 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
did the trc and ect switches red the other day as well. managed to get the red led's in the original bulb holders and have a resistor for the led without anything fouling.
Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 05:39 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
haha cheers. has to be done as im finding more and more dead bulbs. doing the on off and a/c knobs lighting next. then the trim bit under the dash cluster. so freakin dark in my cabin at night with all those dead lights!