Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:24 am, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
soon as i sort out alternator troubles. i think its the alternator. but im starting to think its the battery. discharging too quickly when just sitting there. when its in the car i can drive for 40mins. but out of the car it discharges within 5 mins. from full charge to cant even crank the starter lowness. i would come around today but i dont want to end up stranded halfway to yours.
Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:52 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
my thoughts exactly. i put another battery in today just to eliminate the problem and it got drained just as quick. hopefully the one i have lined up is going to be in good condition.
Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 01:22 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
can anyone help me out with a soarer jzz30 body wiring diagram? my trc, ect, temp and volume, lights have gone out and i cant seem to find out how to bring them back. i clumsily had the headlights on while installing leds into the temp control knob thing. was using a screwdriver to place led into slots and when i locked them in the screwdriver arc'd for a split second across the led terminals. any way of gettin my lights to come back??
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 - 01:07 am, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
oh also forgot to add, ive got voice recognition working well i can use it to dictate emails. open web browsing, open applications and media. such as messenger and winamp etc.. dictation works quite well surprisingly. and it specifically tracks one voice. good for a rowdy car. lol
Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 03:41 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
ok i did my own 'dodgy fix' for my starter motor. by dodgy i mean i didnt have a spot welder to fuse the copper brush tails to the cradle and body of the sarter. but anyway here goes my starter motor rebuild for $0
pic 1: here it is the dirty old starter motor that has been giving me headaches for the past three or four weeks. dirty and bashed from all the bashings ive given it to start!
pic 2: remove the bolt that attaches this copper braid to the body of the starters plunger/ throw out solenoid
pic 3: once you have undone the two main long bolts that hold that sarters body together you can begin to pull it apart and lay out the parts like so. the three little gears are the planetary gears that sit inside a plastic ring gear on the front bit of the starters body.
pic 4: notice how brown the copper contacts are at the bottom of this bit.
pic 5: check out the gunk!! this is all that was making my starter motor work! once i cleaned out this powdery carbon/ copper brush material my starter motor would not fire up at all. which means that everytime i gave it a bash to kick before. all i was doing was loosening some of this material and it would make contact between the brush and the stator.
pic 6: this is after a quick clean using wax and grease remover. dont forget that all of the moving parts are covered by a conductive grease. i removed all of that and just soaked everyting with silicone spray.
pic 7: this is the cradle that holds your brushes in the starter body. to remove you need to undo two screws at the bottom of the starter body, i have already cut the copper braid for two of the brushes that attach to the body in this pic, thankfully the other two are attached to the cradle and still had plenty of meat left
pic 8: this is just a pic of the starters main body all cleaned and siliconed up you can see at the bottom where the brush cradle is how only two of the brushes are still protruding. seems to be a coomon thing with starters as the other dead rb25 donor starter had the same problem. contacts at 180 deg from each other means that the stater would never get past the 90 deg mark when attempting to kick it. and so it would just squeal horribly when it sat in between the two good terminals.
pic 9: the bottom cap of the starter where the brush cradle screws onto. ive given a good clean as well.
pic 10: good as new! i wire brushed the copper contacts and bam! she looks new
pic 11: this is the front part of the starter main body, it holds the sliding geared sleeve that allows your solenoid to throw out the starter gear the main shaft is driven by the panetary gear set behind it.
pic 12: here is the rear of the front main part, inside this plastic ring gear sits the three little tiny gears, they attch to the three protrusions that you see and this whole assembly is then driven by the main gear on the stator. again soak this all in silicone spray.
pic 13: here is the brush cradle again but this time with two brushes i have replaced using ones from the dead rb25 starter. as i mentioned before same problem with the rb starter two worn brushes. which gave me two good brushes to use i cut the braid and cut myself some small slits of stainless sheet and used these to crimp the copper braids together from the brushes to the starter body. works extremely well and it aint going nowheres!
pic 14: here is another view of attached brushes. NOTE! the rb25 starter brushes were not the same height width or thickness as the 1jz ones. but since they are only a copper/ carbon composite it was easy enough to file them down to the correct size so they would sit in their respective slots also notice the bash marks on the starter motor body, lol,
pic 15: this is the snout of the starter where the plunger solenoid sits, just gave it a quick clean as well.
pic 16: and finally the rebuilt starter ready to go back in! much cleaner and once it starts like a possesed demon! as soon as the ignition key hits the start position, its all business starts so good i rekon i could drive the car just off the stater motor! sometimes it sounds like the engine has to catch up to the starter! lol
as a disclaimer this is only a rough guide to get you out of trouble, i do not recommend doing this unless your willing to do so. but all in all, if you've pulled apart 9volt motors as a kid then this is piss easy stuff.
Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 06:06 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
here is the new cradle i ordered from the uk. brushes are nice and fat. i also ordered a spare set of brushes. i also installed my emanage blue today with no hiccups. along with cam's shift box onto a t-16 harness with an emanage ultimate loom wired in. a little bit of work and i converted it to a t-13 style harness and for use with the emanage blue. got carried away and forgot to take pics. lol
Monday, May 17, 2010 - 03:07 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
just tested the car after installing the emanage blue and cams shift box. car pulls a little harder with the emanage on zero's and idle is much more steady. cam's shift box works like a dream! i haven't got a switch wired in for overdrive, i must do that soon as it seems by default without the switch when i select D it automatically goes to overdrive. the shift times from 1st to 2nd to drive is unreal! loving it! now i just need to back it up with a rebuilt valve body
thanks again cam. its been a fw months since i purchased the box off you but now it's in it works superbly! and i can select auto or manual on the fly.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 12:48 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
ok today i replaced the fluro tube in my dash with a 30cm ccfl tube from jaycar. (you buy them as a pair with inverter) i broke 2 while doing this as i didnt trim enough of the rubber from the stops from the original tube.
ok pics. pulled apart dash and stripped it down to bits. saw that the matt black finish was in need of attention so i sprayed it.
here is the ccfl tube one still in its plastic casing above it just for reference.
you can see how much overhang there is on each end. doesnt really matter as long as you trim enough off the rubber caps that were there holding the original tube in place. open out both holes in the rubber, then trim about 3-4mm off the flat side of the rubber so the ccfl tube sits as low as possible.
after sussing out where to put the inverter the ccfl tubes came with i deceided to check to see if the onboard inverter on the dash was good enough to power the ccfl tube... much tomy delight it is! startin from the top of the plug pins 1 should go to one of the ccfl tubes wires. then 5 and 7 to the other wire. doesnt matter which way around you have the ccfl wires.
and here is the finished product... this is using a UV ccfl. looks nice at night. cant see during the day. i have since replaced it with another blue one. (i broke 2 blue ones doing this... good thing they only cost me 8 bucks a pair at jaycar)
Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 01:18 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
here it is with cleaned glass. cleaned plastic veiwing pane (scratches from previous owner) and the blue 30 cm ccfl from jaycar.
next is to replace the caps as my speedo and other lcd bits are blinking on cold days. ive got myself 16v 10uF SMD caps from jaycar for $1.80 a pack of ten. hopefully those are the only ones i need to replace.