Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 09:01 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
well ive gone and given the old girl some drift damage tonight at archy front drivers side quarter and heaqlight smashed up, mostly cosmetic but the alternator is now playing up and wont give me enough amps to even run my abs while thermo's are on and the headlights refuse to come on. hmmm.... hence the drift damage. abs wasnt working and locked up both fronts slid into wall after missing the handbrake lever. wooops!! oh well. anyone gettin rid of a drivers side quarter for dirt cheap? lol.
Saturday, October 30, 2010 - 10:25 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
pic of damage. doesnt look so bad. but upon closer inspection. alloy reinforcement beam was snapped, headlight frame surround was bent, stock ic popped off its allow mounting tabs,
all fixed up today total cost was 300 for all the bits that needed replacing.
95 foggies fit into the 91 front bar and same with the grille.
got these on friday as well, might look into putting them on parhaps tomorrow...
indicator lights. curved and quite solid
unpainted primered shell. cut out is perfect.
lights slip in no problem. will have to use some 3m auto tape or perhaphs even araldite these on.
rear of lights are flat, should clear mirror electrics no problems
ends of lights protrude a fair way out from the original mirror contour, should be able to see these from behind.. just.
Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 06:33 pm, by: Rob Rojo(Rob_tt)
Its a bit hard to see from the photos but you said the 95 grille fit straight in, if it was a 91 model the 95 grille wouldn't go in as the 91 has a fixed grille already there.
Friday, November 26, 2010 - 02:06 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
totally off topic but relevant nonetheless. finished helping my mate with his xr6 turbo last weekend. sent it to the tuners, mate requested 400 hp to get used to, got 396.1rwhp on 11psi tuner commented on how neat and also how easy everything was to tune not bad for a backyard job! GT42R with 45mm ext wastegate. custom intercooler and piping, custom stainless manifold. custom full stainless 316 exh, 3 inch off the turbo to 3.5 inch and super smooth wastegate merge
all this because my mate got sick of taking his car to ford to get a new turbo every 6 months, they never listened to him when he requested bigger oil lines. so with absolutely no knowledge on anything of this sort i directed the purchasing and fabrication of parts, also had to modify the stock engine mount to allow for the wastegate. all this for.... wait for it..... $8000!!! 600hp is only a flash tune away best bang for your buck ever!!! the things we do aye! lol
custom surge tank. twin 040 pumps. 65lbs inj, etc etc.
Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 10:46 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
walter the XR6 turbo death is caused by a little screen filter in the oil feed to the turbo, its a common problem and there was a recall to fit the revised filter. Its there to stop any crud getting to the turbo bearings, but over time blocks up badly and starves the turbo
All can be solved with the revised filter or removing it all together with the use of custom lines as you said LOL
They should have known about this at ford as it was a recall
Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 11:12 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
they are stupid, we found a nice 10 inch 3/8 snap on extension bar in the cold side of the intercooler as well. wasn't any of ours as we used kingchrome gear.
a nice find but a massive shock to find it where it was. not the first instance ive heard of/ dealt with involving ford dealerships
Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 10:18 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
geez............ thats dodgy. As a mechanic it annoys the living crap out of me when my name gets tarnished by the multitude of careless and just outright arrogant mechanics out there. Il be the first to say im not the best out there, but i take care and pride in what i do lol. Theres some dodgy fellas out there
Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 01:28 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
ok so for today i decided to install my recently acquired 2jz injectors. it has taken me 3 hours from staring at the engine to going for a drive
tools used were, bull nose pliers, 10mm socket and extension on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, 12mm socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. small flathead screwdriver. that's it. simple job with a lot of sticking the tongue out in all directions to try and squeeze my massive (hardly asian) hands down the tight spots. 3 bits of skin missing from knuckles, washed off with metho and all is sweet
now for the fuel pump.. i might leave that for another day, perhaps tomorrow. or later if i get bored.
Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 02:57 am, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
fuel pump was BS easy. why did i put it off! lol now it seems tho that my car is starving for air. as soon as i give it WOT it doesn't pull as hard as 3/4 or half throttle. i might be reaching the capacity of the stock airbox me thinks..
also i have acquired myself a pair of 1kd-ftv turbo's part number 17201-30110 these are VNT turbo's and are electronically controlled. also they are steel wheeled my problem, i would ask your help in gettin around, is using the factory system to work on a soarer. it has a 2 pin motor to control it. power/ ground one way it opens. ground/ power it shuts. i will be trying out a pwm to see if i can control it using duty cycle, hopefully i can set a 0% as a positive voltage. if i can do that then i can use the EMB two sub-injector pwm signals to control the VNT actuation via pressure vs rpm maps (i know the EMB doesn't set a positive value to drive the sub-inj, sends out a max of -7v) i need to be able to reverse the polarity at a set rpm so that i may use the positive value on the maps as a positive value to the actuator. and make it move the other direction
to do this i am thinking of using a 12vdc reversing relay http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_24450.asp and another standard relay to act as the on/ off switch using the EMB's vtec output. switching it off at the same rpm point the sub-inj map hits 100% on accel, (100% = -7v = fully closed) so vtec map set to pressure vs rpm 1000 2000 3000 4000 2.00 OFF OFF OFF OFF 3.00 ON ON ON ON 4.00 ON ON ON OFF
these settings would allow the actuator to be in the fully open position when idling, or on very light loads, with the sub-inj value at 100%, but as soon as the pressure sensor senses a rise in pressure that corresponds to the Vtec output coming ON at a value of 3 on the pressure side and at the 1000rpm mark, the ON value triggers the relay to switch the reversing relay so that now the 100% valua on the sub0inj map shuts the VNT actuator allowing for a quicker spool. and gradually tapering off towarrds the high pressure/ med rpm mark to allow the exhaust pressure to be released and utilize the full breathing capability of the turbo.
any thoughts on gettin this system to work are muchly appreciated
Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 07:12 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
tested pwm output of emanage. all good. i can get it to open slowly by using a value of 50% or under. and 100% opens it fast. gotta set the value accordingly on the extra injection maps, 12v bi-polar relay testing using the vtec ouput will be next
also decided to lean my fuel maps out a little and add positive values to the airflow map as boost and revs increase. i have it at -5 on idle.( -10 and it drops to around 400rpm idle. ) and instead of having a max value of 40% on the fuel map. i took it back down to 15% interpolated from 15% at 5v vs 7000rpm to 0% at 2.5v vs 2800rpm. these settings have fixed the flat spot i was feeling after 5000rpm on WOT, overfuelling up high. i have also installed the hks evc6 with a correction value of -15 as boost was spiking to 20psi when it was set on 17psi. a lot smoother now. but i feel that it pulled just as hard with the stock injectors and fuel pump...time to get rid of restrictions! i have totally gone backwards about this whole thing by doing boost, tuning, fuel. but i wanted to find stock limits, now for a dyno figure and to fabricate dumps, exhaust, FMIC piping, then another dyno figure, re-tune and dyno figure again
Friday, April 15, 2011 - 10:09 pm, by: Richard West(Omen666)
Dude it so does! Did Ensor make your case Walter? Ahaha It looks sweet hey this is my favourite Carpc build I have seen. Btw Walter I didn't get enough time this morning to plug in the EMB so I will give you a full report tomorrow
Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 10:48 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Walter Gillmore wrote on Friday, April 15, 2011 - 10:43 pm:
Sci-Fi series from the late 70's/early 80's - Blakes 7 was the name of the show. Second season they find this super computer called ORAC, basically an all-knowing sarcastic AI built in a plastic fishbowl with flashing lights. It was a great TV series - ended badly for the heroes though.
Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 01:45 pm, by: Richard West(Omen666)
Ahaha my dad was a big fan of Blake 7, I used to watch it with him as a kid, I bet if I watched it now I would cringe! I can't wait to see that turbo set up completed.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 07:40 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
few other things i did, used flexible strip white leds for the auto selector indicator, i simply removed one bulb from its holder, undo the contact pins from the holder, and strip and thread the led strip light wires into the holder and re-inserted. much brighter now
here is an is300 e-shift steering wheel with cruise control i got from the US, used the hornpad from the one i bought off these forums, modified the pin arrangement and cut the cruise on/off switch power wire (was spliced into the cruise lever power wire) and ran it to it's own power as is on the jzz30.
Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:22 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
ok so i have bought and purchased a set of steel wheel turbo's that were for sale on here not too long ago.. i am severely kicking myself for trusting these units knowing the hands they have been through. 'rebuilt' 40000k ago yet when i pre oiled them to install into my car, i set them aside and removed the turbo's from my engine. i returned to the steel wheeled ones i paid a ridiculous amount of money for... @#%$in oil out of the front compressor housing and rear turbine housing of BOTH turbo's!! rebuilt my ass. apparently they were sitting for 3 months, i don't know of any oil seal deteriorating in that time whilst still wet and lubricated. but anyway. i've decided to swallow my pride and accept the fact i was an idiot for trusting other people. the person i bought them from has said they will be depositing $300 back into my account which is nice.... but still that means i have effectively paid $550 after the $300 cash back for busted steel wheel turbo's.......... someone please justify this price to me... i'm finding it rather hard to swallow.
ok now for pics. i decided to run these turbo's anyway as my rear one was dead and was already past the halfway point of removing the stock turbo's before i found this out. i just have to suffer through a cloud of white smoke everytime i'm sitting at the lights or in my driveway... AWESOME!! :/
this pic shows the steel wheel in the foreground and my old ceramic boosted to 20psi in the background. notice how wet and oily the area behind he turbine is on the steel wheeled compared to the bone dryness of my old ceramics. this is only from oil being ut in the cartridge before install. i did not wet this myself. i pulled them apart once i saw the oil start pouring out. and sure enough. it was coming from the rear seal and the fron seal!! @$#%#$! argh!
this shows the pool of oil that built up from just sitting attached to the engine and oil pumped through it by disconnecting the ignition module and cranking the engine for a minute or two. notice the streak where i wiped my finger to show the depth of the oil that pooled in about 5 mins.. SICK
Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:35 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
i am about to try my luck again with another set.. this time purchased for $100 stock ceramics. will be purchasing this weekend. stupid i know but i just need the smoke to stop!!
ok enough of the ranting on and venting etc. another side project that saw some progress today is my twin vn turbo setup. i have acquired a few DPDT relays so the electronics part will be next to tackle. but i have gotten a bit further now that i have a set of stock manifolds spare.
these are the stock manifolds that i ported, opened them right out
Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 08:46 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
pulled my steel wheeled vn turbo's apart today.. so i could position them correctly for 1j use and also to visually inspect them. i tell you what. these are in way better condition than the busted ass steel wheel ct12a's that i paid $850 for! and i paid less than an 8th of the price for the both of these units! Exclamation mark!!
vn turbo exhaust turban lol. stainless so good to go with the heat of a petrol engine. also both oil and water cooled ball bearing cartridges XD
vn turbo rear housing. much much beefier than the ct12a's
vn turbo variable vane assembly.. the main body and the vanes are stainless, so can handle the heat, but the actual actuator ring is steel from inspection. might have to machine one from high grade stainless if they melt! lol. vanes fully closed
Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 09:03 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
vn turbo actuator ring assembly.
vn turbo's rotated and mounted on ported 1jz manifolds XD
another angle with a pair of native white gum trees in the background.
and again a different angle showing the compressor exits
things left to do are.. 1. wire in the relay and emanage setup to get the vnt's functioning. 2. determine whether the vnt's in the fully open position will pass enough gases to delete the need of an external wastegate. 2a. fabricate external wastegate onto stock manifolds. (nickel rod welding and a sh1t load of peening, cast iron see) 3. mount onto engine and fabricate oil and water lines. 4. fabricate dump pipe 5. oil turbo's and start engine, check for leakage, smoke, weird sh1t in general. 6. drive and tune using emanage and carpc 7. report back and post results
Dan McColl Goo Roo Victoria (The Nazi State) Pretty Red Thing and The Black Beast
Friday, July 15, 2011 - 03:15 pm, by: Walter Gillmore(Cl33pa)
i know right! the steelies cost me 850.. busted, supposed to be gettin 300 back from the dude. off these forums too.. le sigh the rebuild kits cost 100 a pop. but thats not my main worry, the cost of balancing and finding a company that will vsr balance these turbo's that i would have rebuilt. problem.. no one wants to balance cartridges that they haven't rebuilt and charged a for themselves... GAY!!! so unless i'm willing to fork out a lot of cash just to have these in good running order... there is no point. i just wasted 550, provided he does give me my 300 back! i would much rather spend that cash going single FFS! and to think that the vn turbo's were $100 for both!!!! furious isn't the right word...
cheers for the comments guys
if anyone knows of anywhere that will rebuild these for a decent price, please let me know. as i will get them REBUILT and sell them for a reasonable price.
also removed my 'stock exhaust' today, rattly cat started to annoy me. and it got loud! once removed and a closer inspection of the redback cat revealed a dodgy job. bird poo welds, from stock 2.5 inch downpipe, someone has welded a section of.. stink ass 1.75 inch pipe into the stock front pipe and into the little redback cat that would be pushing 2 inches!!! bloddy hell! poor car, has been boosting to 20psi with a 1.75 inch restriction in the exhaust! once i fabricate mine, i reckon there will be at least 20kw unleashed! twin dumps into 4 inch downpipe to 4 inch cat and splits into twin 3 inch im done abusing this car by stretching the stock limits... actually less than stock with that restriction! time for some more TLC enough with the fuel and boosting, time to let this baby breathe! so zorst and IC next.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31