Monday, October 30, 2006 - 08:59 pm, by: Will Adams(Draco)
It has been written about a few times, but I have not found a definitive answer for this. Sorry for covering this again.
How do you tell if you have got steel-wheels or standard ceramics? From previous threads it has been suggested that the turbo spools slightly later. With this spooling, is this on a flat surface with no load?
I have my boost gauge and can't keep an eye on it while driving and testing this procedure.
I have also read that you would need to take the entire thing apart to check the blades. This sounds like a nasty and very long procedure to go through (I have seen the instructions on removing the turbos). There was also a mention of removing one pipe supposedly then using a magnet to check, but never saw anything more of this (and besides it was only for the front turbo not the rear).
Of course, the other options that other people have suggested is to wind the boost up and see if they break. This unfortunately (although it would be fun) is not an option and can't aford the potential expense to rebuild them.
Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:06 pm, by: Ben Daniel(Lexustt)
You have basically covered every option there is, I dont have steel wheels myself but have been told they spool up a little later. Basically all your stuck with is the tedious task of taking off all your piping, front turbo and standard dump to have a look. Steel wheels will look like... well... steel ?? Ceramic's are a yellow colour (well at least mine are)
If you are going to take everything off you may as well do dumps while your at it.
Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:30 pm, by: Bill Bogiatzis(Boggie23)
Hey Will.
If you are getting positive boost at say 1500rpm to anything lower then you have ceramics. If it is around the 2500rpm or there about they are steel.
You should be able to feel it without any instruments. If it is responsive and rockets once you plant the accelerator then you have ceramics. If it accelerates normal and then nothing for a second or two and then you hear the turbos then they are probably steel.
Just remember Instant boost under any load is ceramics and lag whatsoever means they are not stock.
They don’t really sound different so i don’t know if you can pick it up audibly. I always thought my ceramics sounded more like a JET then my steelies. Go figure.
Also another thing I have figured out is that in my car it is imposible to chirp the tyres on take off. As before if I planted it (say 75% throttle) it would loose traction in first then chirp into second. Now it doesnt do anything. It feels like a slug. Might need a shift kit, boost controller, boost it to 16psi, and get a stally and possibly exhaust. Then hopefully I might be able to chirp it.
Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:48 pm, by: Will Adams(Draco)
Bill I have always been under the assumption that the stock point that the stock turbos come on at are around 2800rpms? I assume this is when you are on
Tuesday, October 31, 2006 - 09:27 am, by: Will Adams(Draco)
This morning on the way to work, I decided to plant it from the lights. Not fully to the floor, but enough to make the revs climb quickly. I noticed from take off, and trying to keep an eye on the road and the gauge that the boost gauge gets to the "0" reading and starts going into the positives around 2200rpms.
Cihan thanks for the explanation around the load vs higher gear.
Yep no worries, though might take a couple of weeks, waiting on a dump pipe at the moment... I'd like this to hurry up, as driving my gf's Festiva for the last 3 weeks I'm having withdrawal symptoms lol!
Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 05:52 pm, by: Will Adams(Draco)
Braden Murdoch wrote on Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 03:32 pm:
2200RPM for ceramics sounds about right. My steelies are on 0 at 2500.
Braden what gear is this in, etc. etc.?
Gregg Holden wrote on Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 03:08 pm:
You could always wind up the boost to 18psi and see if little ceramic bits come flying out your exhaust...
Now you know I can't do that, as that will put me out of pocket and at the moment can not afford to replace them or the engine. Saving, saving, saving. No deliberate sabotage..........
Monday, November 06, 2006 - 04:38 pm, by: Bill Bogiatzis(Boggie23)
In first gear you should be getting boost at around 1300-1700 rpm. So off the lights when you mash it you should notice boost straight away.
While when you are in a steel wheeled one off the lights you mash it, you take off and then at around 2500 rpm you start to get boost. So by the time your ceramics are hitting about 9psi of boost or so your steelies will be waking up.
I guess you wont be able to tell without driving one for so long then it sh1ts itself and then you have to rebuild and have the other one which you are disappointed with, until you get the exhaust, piggy back, shift kit, intercooler, boost control running 16+psi and tune it to about 280 ponies at the wheels.
Monday, November 06, 2006 - 05:05 pm, by: Damian Ware(Frozenpod)
Bill I doubt you will find a TT with boost at 1300rpm.
I have driven a lot of TT and most have boost on stock twins at about 2200 to 2500rpm.
Mine had boost about about 2200rpm in first if you floor it off the line and boost at about 1900 to 2000rpm in normal driving.
I have driven a couple of TT with steel wheels and there was an extra .5 to 1sec delay it was noticable and it really changed the driving in traffic situations. It gave me the ••••••
With a good set of twins and correct tunning I have seen a TT that had boost at 1700 to 1800rpm and full boost at 3000rpm. There was a lot of expense put into this car to achieve this great result but I think it was well worth the effort.
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