Tuesday, December 26, 2006 - 04:58 pm, by: Sean Yost(Crazystitch)
Hey everyone, After searching high and low for the HKS T3G turbos, i came across this from Greddy... http://www.nengun.com/forced-induction/trust-greddy/turbo-kit-supra I am seriously considering it but wondering too what other upgrades i would be needing before such a big install... EBC, Injectors, Fuel Pump, some sort of piggyback ecu, or stand alone one....
So far i have the intercooler sorted, i am kinda leaning towards the Greddy e01 EBC (oh how i like that YELLOW "overtaking scramble boost button"), with the Greddy e-manage ultimate, or would the power FC suffice. I am not planning on running much boost maybe 14psi at the most till i can afford an LSD and some serious suspension upgrades as well as brakes etc...but basically just for the bolt on could everything handle that kinda of boost standard with the above mentioned EBC and ECU? I am thinking too of getting a set of Lews dumps depending on if the kit comes with them...still waiting to hear from nengun about it.... Any help would be greatly appreciated
These make some good power for a lesser price of the greddy ones. Also bolt up to your existing pipework. AND looks exactly like the factory fit so no problems from the BOYS IN BLUE.
And on the Diff thing??? Why change turbos and eat a stock diff? My car makes 195rwkw and I ate my Stock diff! What would you do if you spent all your money on this turbo kit and installed it only to take off down the road ( running some lowish 14psi, which would still make 230rwkw or more) and kill your stock diff? Park it in the garage until you could save up and pay the $1350+ for another one?
The stock turbos can flow quite well with all the Mods you have mentioned. Even the EBAY Steel Wheelies are a good option.
Your looking at JUST $4500 for a turbo kit. Ecu + injectors another $1200 or so. Then Dump Pipe to suit, maybe $1000. $1350+ for a LSD.
I think you have forgotten about the Gearbox too mate. Your looking at $650-$700 for a Shift kit fitted. AND also IF these turbos are more LAGGY than stock ones,(which they will be), Then your looking at a Stall convertor as well. Another $800-$1200 depending on your application.
200+rwkw will kill a stock auto box over time(depending on driving). A Stock box with a shift kit will handle 260rwkw ( as MV Auttomatics has told many soarer folk).
I dont know your budget but i would suggest looking into it some more. It aint as easy as just buying turbos and going from there.
I would suggest doing a Greddy Emanage ECU, Dump pipes + exhaust, Boost to 14psi or 15psi, Shift Kit + an LSD. This package should be good for 220+rwkw and low 13 to high 12 second 1/4 mile times.
IF you then get bored, Change to a bigger turbo kit!
Tuesday, December 26, 2006 - 06:22 pm, by: Sean Yost(Crazystitch)
Cheers Daniel, Its all those little things that you don't know about that make all the diff. Your suggestions sounds like something to definitely consider...the plan is to have a consistant 250kw at the wheels, but everything as reliable as possible. As for application drifting is kinda where i am at but something that would be able to tackle, track, drift, drag, and daily driving is my ultimate goal with the car. As far as the AT i am planning a manual conversion in the next year or so, but if the AT will handle 250rwkw then why change it just yet....
Tuesday, December 26, 2006 - 06:52 pm, by: Sean Yost(Crazystitch)
Well after a little thought... If decide to go with the 220+rwkw package thats about 5k+ to about 7k. More than likely i will get bored with that as i have an inate desire for more power and speed....so i figure if i just go with the big package detuned i only have to spend say about 10k versus 5-7k twice....once for the 220kw and then again for MORE.... so back to to the original questions....
Tuesday, December 26, 2006 - 10:01 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
BTW Sean, My power estimates were conservative if you would like to say that.
I know Cihan has seen almost 230rwkw with JUST a Filter, Greddy Emanage ECU, Minor exhaust mods, FMIC and running stock dump pipes.
If your car is stock and putting out like 150rwkw at the moment, 220+ is a BIG difference.
I can understand you wanting to do the Turbo and all, but dont forget, you will need all of those mods i mentioned + the different turbo kit. Add into that additional pipework and you will acheive your goals
Hope this helps you along the way mate. Sounds like your going to be building one hell of a tough ride
Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - 12:01 pm, by: Sean Yost(Crazystitch)
cheers for that daniel. well the plan is to build something pretty tough. I am guessing its going to take ALOT of time and i plan to do as much as possible of my own. Money well thats just something i would rather not think about, but after seeing all these skylines and 180sx's s13's etc down here in tassie i wanted to build something original and something that would give 90% of them a run for their money but also just quietly cruise around unsuspecting. how much boost was Cihan running to get the 230rwkw? is that with stock turbos or with the steel wheeled ones? Fingers crossed in due time all will come together Will keep you all posted
Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - 08:57 pm, by: Aaron Mead(Aaron)
The REAL cost of my single conversion, the prices I paid for it:
Haltech ECU : $1922 Wiring : $800 Dyno time so far : $900 GT3540,flange, clamp, del : $1942 Trust S/H manifold, inc mod : $480 Trust S/H 44mm Gate,new seal : $400 Dump and gate fabrication : $500 Bosch 044 external deliv : $288 Bosch 040 internal deliv : $265 Surge Tank (in boot, custom) : $133 Fuel Hoses, tank, rail, return : $159 Speedflow fittings for fuel : $364 Oil cooler, fitted : $618 Trans cooler, fitted : $197 Removal of turbos, change of oils, change of coolant, removal and reinstall of exhaust components, inc fitting new manifold and oil lines, labour only : $0 (Did those bits myself) Oil feed and return fabrication: $228 Water line fab and material : $175
Stuff that was already done on the car that helps support the extra power and would be what I'd do anyway.
1.5MV shift kit, installed : $650 440cc injectors, installed, S/H : $900 (a big labour job for many people, I assumed you'd pick em up for aroujnd $300, then cleaning, then o-rings, maybe new connectors too, then labour to put em in. Of course if you've got factory items now, and want 300rwkw at least, tehn buy Sard 800cc, about $700 delivered
Also had a HKS front mount and piping kit installed on the car when i bought it, among many other excellent and tasteful modifications. Say $1200 installed if you buy second hand.
On top of that, some finishing items, like HKS camgears, Greddy catch can, Greddy radiastor pipe (killed mine), HKS timing belt. $765 delivered all new from japan.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - 09:53 pm, by: Aaron Mead(Aaron)
I think theres nothing wrong with using a few secondhand items, specially things like manifolds, wastegates and injectors, as long as new o-rings, cleaning and bench flow testing are carried out, can save consideable cost.
Serioulsy though, the ECU and wiring can be the biggest expense for no HP gain, but are essential. Do it first though, its essential to have a good working base before splashing on teh turbo kit.
FUEL SYSTEM (injectors, pumps, surge, fittings) TRANSMISSION (rebuild? shift kit? manual clutch?) CONTROL (ecu, piggybacks, full house)
When these are sorted, you can go and splash on a big HKS T04Z, manifold, gates, lines, plumbing etc.
With turbos, TRUST/GREDDY t78, t88, td06H and t67 are light switch operation. GREAT BIG BAGS of power. Instantly. Also cheaper to rebuild, they are non ball bearing core.
HKS make ball bearing turbos unlike TRUST, but have great progressive power and awesome response. With HKS made by garrett, and being ball bearing, they are very expensive to repair. Jai just destroyed a 13b turbo, and lunched the GT3540R turbo on it. $1460 to repair from G.C.G. inc delivery. Not bad for a $1800 turbo!
The engine itself, can handle stacks of power, an auto trans HAS BEEN KNOWN to handle up to 300rwkw, but somone did say that Mike from MV Auto's reckons 265rwkw is the limit for safe daily operation of the standard A340E auto. Get a cooler as well, and a shift kit to ease the heat/slip operation of the naturally smooth Soarer A340E auto.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - 09:58 pm, by: Aaron Mead(Aaron)
My car was tuned with 242rwkw with the ceramic twins making 17pounds.
They (well the rear one) died on 15p.s.i. on a dyno run after a very hard few months of tuning, dynoing and driving like Aaron.
As maurice said, he's sticking with his street legal twins. Probably a good thing down mexico way too. Dont have that problem here.
As the saying goes, you gotta pay to play. Speed costs a lot of money, how fast do you want to go etc... etc..
Some say upgrading brakes is essential. Its not, unless you want to track race. And supra 4 pot front and 2 pot rears can replace the slide caliper 2 pot fronts and 1 pot rears on factory Soarers. A good upgrade. You'd need new rotors all round to upgrade to these brakes. Get new lines too while you are at it. Finding wheels to fit the monster calipers can be challenging, but supra 17" factory items can be had for $660.