Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 10:54 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
The bloody obvious guide to engine removal...
Step 1) Pull everything attaching engine to car off, noting carefully where everything goes, then leave it too long before putting the engine back in and forget.
Step 2) Pull bonnet off and cover paint with something to protect it from being damaged when the engine swings around wildly or drops on the hoist (happens every time to me) Old towels give you a false sense of security.
Step 2a) Curse as bonnet is blown over by wind where you carefully leaned it up against the wall. Wonder how much a respray will cost...
Step 3) Attach engine hoist to engine and hoist away - keep pumping that handle, 'cause the last person who hired it used it to lift a house and its buggered. Consider buying your own engine hoist.
Step 4) Note that you should really learn how to tie some proper knots and pray that it doesnt slip any more, while inspecting the shredded towel, scratched paint and creases created as you moved the engine away from the car
Step 5) Lower the engine onto old bricks/bits of timber positioned to stop it rolling onto its side.
Step 6) Roll engine back to upright after it has rolled onto its side
Step 7) Clean up mess (this is the bit that takes the longest)
Putting the engine back in is just the reverse, only you have a step 8, which is taking it to someone who knows what they are doing as the bloody thing just won't start.
Hehehehe, sounds like you're talking from experience there Matthew
Seriously if you have to ask a general question like that maybe you shouldn't be doing that yourself... but generally you have to unplug everything that connects it to the car etc... you don;t need to pull off the turbos though, they come out with the engine...
Aaron Casey TryHard nsw '94 jzz30 gttl, vk, pimped mini
Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 04:32 pm, by: Damien Barnes(Barned01)
i'm happy to help you pull it out, just don't expect me to be there when you want to put it back in in fact, i am doing just that very thing with a mate at the moment in his JZA70 process is right though (having own engine crane makes the job much easier, not worrying about car paint easier still ) if you can run your hand around your engine without it hitting a pipe, wire, brace or whatever that connects to the car then you are ready to take it out. Things to undo: wiring loom from firewall heater hoses a/c cross member bolts (if it is like a jza70 then you can get to them from underneath through a strategically placed hole in the crossmember) various sender wires and grounding wires brake booster hoses accelerator cable (cc cable also) coolant and intercooler pipes generally start from one corner of the engine/bay and work around till you get back to that point removing things along the way. LABEL EVERYTHING (with masking tape is fine) then repeat process for gearbox if it is coming out in one hit (easier usually) including a few wires, tailshft, shift selector, possible fluid lines, xmember bolts (one of the last things to do as it supports the gearbox in place so these are removed when the engine is coming out) then with various jacks and stands and cranes, lift front of car up slightly to get better leverage on gearbox and engine, secure engine and start hoisting away while moving forward. Bob is my uncle
Monday, February 05, 2007 - 04:17 pm, by: Shaun Stephenson(Neonasty)
Im planning on doing this sometime too. Id love to pull out the entire engine when I eventually get around to a turbo swap.
I thought it'd be easier to do all the regular seals and change the turbos etc with the whole thing out. I dont need ot to drive everyday, so I figured doing it right, the first time.