Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 11:51 pm, by: Peter Suridge(Toyostar)
Hi guys, I have another small problem... Story goes... I am in the middle of replacing my water pump which is all well and good, pretty straight forward... I am at the stage now where i need to take my crank pulley and harmonic balancer off. Now my problem is this.
After getting the Crank to TDC and marking the points on both the cam gears and timing belt i proceeded to try and crack the bolt for the pulley, only to find a bolt which i earlier had undone and loosely replaced, (as to not forget where it had come from) had come loose, dropped down into the lower belt cover area and wedged in and snapped the timing belt possibly chipping one of the teeth on the crank timing belt gear.
After doing this and letting off a bit of steam by yelling at the car and tools...(we've all done it) i again took to the computer and our great forums here at Soarer central in search of the "Proper" way to get that damned bolt off. I found this http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14262 posted on this forum earlier this month...which somehow, doing my initial research, had failed to even notice.
In it, it says to put the 22mm Socket on the bolt, attach a breaker bar and some strong piping, rest it up against the chassis of the car and turn the engine over to try and crack the bolt. Which is a bloody ingenious idea!
Now would i still be able to do this considering i have no belt to run the cams (which shouldn't really matter considering it's a non-interference engine), and no radiator hooked up?
I mean if it's only cranking the engine for a split second, it's shouldn't really matter...should it?
Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 09:06 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I'd recommend you rest it on the ground rather than the chassis, especially if its never been off before. I ended up having to use a 1 meter extension on the breaker bar before the starter had enough torque to crack the bolt, and even then it put a hole in the concrete.
Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 04:36 pm, by: Damien Barnes(Barned01)
T'was me that wrote that
When I was doing that I was assured the heads were non interference heads thus i could turn the cams independent of the crank and the valves would not foul.
so you should be alright, just use the breaker bar on the crank, crank the engine over (i removed the spark plug leads to stop it from firing from memory), and see how you go. It might not crack on first shot, but hopefully it will still crack on the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th etc. And for the record i have no dents in my car using the chassis as my breaking point...but then I also suspect it had already had done a 100k service at some stage so might not have been done to full tightened specs of some rediculous NM amount.
Friday, February 16, 2007 - 06:29 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Dennis Weglehner wrote on Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 09:38 am:
Long strong breaker bar and a big hammer.
Thats a good method for a manual, but doesn't usually work to well for an auto, unless you manage to lock it up somehow.
I think its about 280N/M, which is something like 70 - 80KG at 1 meter on a breaker bar - not that much, but it doesnt take into account binding. When they are assembled in the factory, they use a small amount of grease on the thread, which eventually dries up leading to thread bind - thus actual breaking torque to get the bolt out again can be (and almost always is) much, much higher.
When doing it back up again, I used the "she's about right there" method as I couldnt find a torque wrench that went high enough...
Friday, February 16, 2007 - 08:23 am, by: Shaun Stephenson(Neonasty)
I also use the 'thats tight enough' method. I usually use that method and havnt had any problems yet.
I use the chassis rail for undoing the bolt. It works a treat. Just make sure that the pipe is against the chassis and not 20 CMs away or it will scare the hell out of you! Have a rag on the pipe so as not to damage the paint too!
Friday, February 16, 2007 - 05:25 pm, by: Danny Dinh(Xtc)
The bolt should have been loosen up before you remove anything. I used a 3/4 inch air gun and it works fine. other method is to use a specific tool (designed to crack the bolt) use this with a hammer, works every time.
Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 10:24 pm, by: Danny Dinh(Xtc)
Everyone has different approach. It might be best for you but not for me. I don't want to put stress on the starter motor and avoid any accidents or mishaps.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 07:16 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
I think if you have a good rattle gun and compressor, obviously thats the way to go, though you'll most likely have to take the radiator out on most cars.
Pretty safe on the starter motor, its only for an instant so its not like its going to overheat.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 08:56 am, by: Marius Hainal(Torque)
You don't need to take radiator out on the TT, plenty of space. I didn't. And the starter motor is the best way to remove the nut for a "do it yourself" job at home. OF course if you have special tools, then knock yourself out, but if you don't...
There is no stress on the starter motor, as it has enough torque to strip that nut, not only remove it.
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