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Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1726
Reg: 03-2006

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 07:29 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How the hell can you remove 2 of the Nuts let alone the studs?
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1727
Reg: 03-2006

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 07:30 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Anyways, Car is back together minus a down pipe and is not connected to an exhaust!

It started though, nice n loud! Need to try and get it somewhere to get a down pipe made to fit it now though :-(

And then i will be able to pressure everything up and make sure there are no leaks!

P.s. The new DUmps look awsome on the car though:-)
Mustafa Akgul
Goo Roo
NSW
JZZ30-GTTL

Posts: 1064
Reg: 07-2005

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 07:45 pm, by:  Mustafa Akgul (Muzzy) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Daniel Clarke wrote on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 07:29 pm:

How the hell can you remove 2 of the Nuts let alone the studs




lock two nuts together stud will then come out.:-)

its easy to remove dump pipe without removing turbo`s..
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 1732
Reg: 03-2006

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Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 06:53 am, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It seems, The Studs that were in my Turbos were different from the factory ones, plus 1 was already broken so the rear turbo was only using 3 nuts/bolts to hold it on.

Im guessing that mine have been changed before possibly. otherwise, why would the turbo have a broken missing stud?

So the studs on mine were very short, only really short enough that there was no overhanging thread with the standard dumps. The NEW dumps have a slightly thinner Flange, so more thread is available.
Nickel Quimada
TryHard
Western Australia
GT-T

Posts: 256
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 10:54 am, by:  Nickel Quimada (Pinoy) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The 2 brackets ,1 under each turbo. Do these HAVE to be refitted? Or have people been fine leaving them out. Asking only because the back bracket cant be mounted and cant find the front bracket.
Charlie Ters
TryHard
nsw
'Single' biggest mistake :-)

Posts: 339
Reg: 01-2007

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Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 10:59 am, by:  Charlie Ters (Ul05st) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Nickel Quimada wrote on Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 10:54 am:

The 2 brackets ,1 under each turbo. Do these HAVE to be refitted? Or have people been fine leaving them out. Asking only because the back bracket cant be mounted and cant find the front bracket.




hahaha. good luck getting that one on.... i had the same bloody problem, i think the point of it is to relieve the manifold from a bit of the weight, but i cant see no harm in leaving it of, as long as every other bracket goes on......

good luck :-)
Nickel Quimada
TryHard
Western Australia
GT-T

Posts: 257
Reg: 04-2006

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Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 11:56 am, by:  Nickel Quimada (Pinoy) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks mate. I got the front bracket on now. But no way the back can get on. Hope it will be fine.
Jeff Smith
Goo Roo
NSW
GT30/37r Single T

Posts: 2216
Reg: 07-2005

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Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 01:29 pm, by:  Jeff Smith (Mozzie) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I never had a drama getting both brackets on....
You place it on the turbo 1st then screw in the bolt to the block...The biggest drama for me was the oil feed/oil drain fitting without bending the feed line or snapping the drain on the front turbo...
James Shreeve
Tinkerer
victoria
TT

Posts: 18
Reg: 03-2008

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Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 10:00 pm, by:  James Shreeve (Lexfly) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

have fun mate... gee those how to tutorials make it look so easy.....

never again...
Maurice Diggler
Goo Roo
Victoria
TR44 HF

Posts: 2049
Reg: 06-2006

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Monday, September 01, 2008 - 09:33 pm, by:  Maurice Diggler (Mau_rice) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

James, were you the guy doing it with Daniel on the weekend?
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1608
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 03:13 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Uggggh!

I cant get the bottom bolt out of the front turbo manifold. All the nuts came off the cast Y piece dead easy, but I cant separate the turbo from the engine to remove the dump.

Why is there always 1 bolt that will not cooperate?
Walter Gillmore
TryHard
QLD
TT JZZ30

Posts: 116
Reg: 07-2009

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 03:44 pm, by:  Walter Gillmore (Cl33pa) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

because when you remove all bolts the last one will be holding all of the weight/ tension of the cast manifold/ whatever. so put the other bolts back in nip them up a little and slowly work them all loose. otherwise you'll end up with skinned knuckles and rounded hex bolts.
Sebastian Grant
DieHard
nsw
soarer TT

Posts: 552
Reg: 01-2008

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 04:38 pm, by:  Sebastian Grant (Saabg) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I found this quite hard also but do as Walter says. Also it wouldn't come off no matter how hard I tried till I soaked it in wd40 for half an hour. Also you can get to it from the front with a slightly bent, short spanner. Put the closed side on the bolt and then hook a longer spanner to the open end to gain more leverage. Don't close your hand, use an open palm to avoid skinning your knuckles.
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 5302
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 06:12 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I used a pipe over a nice ring spanner to undo all mine. WOrse case scenario Ben, remove the exhaust manifold from the head .
Ben Lipman
Goo Roo
NSW
Soarer TT manual, plus TT track car

Posts: 1609
Reg: 04-2006

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 06:52 pm, by:  Ben Lipman (Ben12a) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah, Daniel, I've thought of that, but on all four of the places you can separate the turbos there is one bolt that will not budge. The red car was so much easier than this one.

Walter- I haven't undone them all yet, as I wasn't going to until I can get all of them "cracked".

The single bolt/nut under the front turbo will not budge with the amount of leverage I have. Basically using two spanners they bend taking up all the available room before the nut cracks. I have the same story with the rear bottom bolt on the rear turbo. Everything is soaking in Loctite freeze and release overnight, because I give up.

I have even tried welding half a 14mm at right angles to a bar, but the nut has started to round...and I cant get in there to cut it off or split the nut.

Normally it is the bottom inside bolt on the rear of the cast Y pipe that is a bugger. They all came out easily enough with the spanner I made up last time.

Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder

Posts: 5305
Reg: 03-2006

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 08:57 pm, by:  Daniel Clarke (Dieseltrain) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ben, If you dont have a 6 sided ring spanner ( instead of those multi fits ) , have you tried putting a 2nd nut on the stud and seeing if that helps ? Then use 2 spanners one on each nut, this may start to remove the stud, but thats not a bad thing.

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