Sunday, April 01, 2007 - 05:51 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
I was doing a walk around inspection this after noon and just happened to look into one of the wheel nut covers on my rear passenger side wheel..only to come to a shuddering crying blubbery mess when i noticed there is a stud missing......
i am sourcing a whole new drum from a wrecker. is it hard to replace wheel bearings while im at it??? might go all the way around changing wheel bearings and tie rod ends..
any suggestions or tips for replacing wheel bearings??? or replacing the passenger drum???
Monday, April 02, 2007 - 02:42 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
the bloke who sold it to me said it happened nearly 2 years ago when a mechanic (probly himself) was using an air gun to do up the bolt.. and it poped off.... hmmm...
anyway.... is it possible to pull of and slide on a second hand one???? i know you'd only have to pull the disc off.. thats wat i meant when i said drum... couldn't think of the right word at the time...
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 08:49 am, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
Matthew Werner wrote on Monday, April 02, 2007 - 02:42 pm:
anyway.... is it possible to pull of and slide on a second hand one????
I wouldn't be using a 2nd hand one, you tend to bent the top when belting them out, making it bloody hard to start the thread when putting the bolts on.
I was forced to do this with my 180sx after putting my wheel on and not noticing the slightly screwed spacer. Consequence, the spacer moved, the wheel became loose, and when traveling from Brisbane to Sydney, it snapped 2 studs, lost the bolt to thr 3rd stud, and at the point where I pulled over for a call of nature, the last bolt fell off.
I was friggin lucky.
Anyway, after calling NRMA to tow the car, the guy arrived in a van and we belted out 1 stud from the driver's side front, but it ended up damaging the thread to the point we couldn't use it.
We belted out the stud from the passenger front, and after a lot of swearing and begging, the bolt finally took, and re-bent the thread straight again.
It was enough to get me out of trouble to have 3 studs on 3 wheels (got me to Nambucca where I got more studs for the car), but having said that, I wouldn't use 2nd hand studs when you can buy brand new studs for about $10 each.
Best thing, belt another stud out, head to auto-pro or Repco, and get 2 new studs (one to replace the missing one, and 1 to replace the one you belted out). $20 is nothing to pay to garauntee safety.
B.
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 01:22 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
There are a few things that happened that night that where a stroke of luck, but that one takes the honours for most of my luck at this point in life!!!!
Previous to this, I could hear a clunking noise, which I thought was the diff, and I was also doing a good 120+km/h sitting behind an empty interstate trucker, slip-streaming him to try and keep the tension and pressure away from the diff.
OPnly minutes before this, I was doing 130km/h (at about 1am in the morning), pulled over for the call of nature, and when walkign back to the car, saw the wheel sitting at about a 30 degree angle to the car.
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 05:59 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
ok.. so from all the stories im hearing i have come to the conclusion that i shall pull off the disc brake rotor and belt the old studs (studS meaning all of them) and replacing them with new ones from repco/auto pro. and repeat the process four times (because most cars have four wheels) thus enabling me to reap the benefits of a some what clear conscience.
thanks james, Matthew, Brian, peter
Werner
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 07:31 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
Matt,
You only need to belt out the old broken stud (if it's there).
No need to remove the curent ones unless there is obvious signs of damage, such as bending or the thread stretching from strain.
I dont think the Soarer studs would strain from 1 missing, because there are a lot of cars on 4 stud patterns surviving with no problems,and similar weight.
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 07:59 pm, by: Matthew Werner(Matto_888)
yer well the ones that are on there have coped with some weekend warrior (aka diyd's Do It Yourself D***heads) and they have got notable signs of threat wear around the base of the stud... a couple of the threads are a lil less that pretty and i don't want to be screwing on new nuts and new mags with dodgy studs.. and besides i like new shiny things...
Werner
Brian Timms TryHard New South Wales TT Soarer Goodness.
Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 08:21 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
if there is signs of wear, replace them.
What you need to replace a stud (the wheel stud, not the man-stud):
- Tools to remove tire (derrrr) - Tools to remove brake caliper - screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the brake disc in. - Hammer to belt the broken/worn studs back - New Stud/studs - about 1.5 - 2cm worth of washers that fit over the new studs - wheel brace.
What to do:
- Block 2 of the tires that will remain firmly grounded (so you can leave the brakes left off, no handbrake, no foot brake) - jack up car and remove the wheel as if you where putting a spare on (Dont forget to use jack stands, safety is VERY important!) - Use sockets (18mm socket on a Nissan 180sx, not confirmed on a Soarer) to remove the 2 large bolts that hold the Caliper on. - Lift Caliper up and hold out of the way with some handy wire. - undo the small screw that holds the rotor/disc onto the hub. - slide the rotor/disc towards yourself (away from car) to remove and reveal the rub and the studs. - inspect the studs for damage and wear. - Use hammer to gently but firmly belt the studs back towards the centre of the car. - after the studs are removed, check the holes to make sure there is not damage to the hub (shouldn't be if you haven't belted it with a hammer). - get the new stud and slide it in from the back twisting it clockwise/anticlockwise as you slide it forward (so that the grooves end up lining up as it seats). - Once stud can no longer be pushed into the hole (from behind), get a wheel nut and your wheel brace, and start winding. - Once the nut can no longer go on any further, take it back off and place about 1 cm thick of washers onto the stud, and start the process all over again. - Repeat this process until you are completely sure that you can not pull the stud through any further. - Dont be scared to pull put a lot of pressure on, unless you use some sort of leverage, or your a super-strong person, you wont be able to produce enough poer through a standard wheel brace to damage the new stud. -Repeat process for any other new studs. - Reverse the removal of items as you replace everything and re-build the brakes, and replace the wheel.
If you have done everything right, you will have a new stud/studs, wont have to bleed the brakes (didn't undo the caliper to cause air in the lines).
My personal advice is that once you have done 1,000kms on that side, you re-check the tension on the studs, to make sure the stud hasn't pulled through any further.
For people in NSW that have this issue, you supply the wheel-stud, I am more than happy to replace the snapped/worn stud for you.
Matthew: I am heading up to Brisbane next Sunday, so if you want help installing the new Wheel stud/studs, I can give you a hand, just PM/email me, and I will fire you my mobile number and schedule. (I am also taking my common-use tools up with me, as I am planning on doing a bit of work on the car).
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