Friday, June 08, 2007 - 08:56 pm, by: Leo Croker(Leonardomonkey)
Hi All I have not posted in awhile, i have a it of a problem with my coolant system. I was told by the dealer selling my current Soarer to me, that the week before he was getting it NCT'ed (road test in Ireland) that while he was waiting the rad split, when i went to buy the car you could see rusty rad water all over the engine bay, that was no big deal nothing a bit of elbow grease and a six pack could not fix. Now 9 months later i have realized something evil. When i went to check the coolant after changing brake pads etc, i found the coolant to just be water, thinking that was strange i removed the coolant bottle to empty it out and replace it with real coolant, 2nd shock the bottom of the coolant bottle and pipe connecting it to the rad was completely blocked by gunk from when the rad blew. So the question is do i just follow the tut's on how to flush the system and remove the intercooler, or does any think i need to dive deeper in. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks to all in advance
Friday, June 08, 2007 - 11:14 pm, by: Haven Tams(Havo)
Remove the intercooler? This shouldnt be needed, I suggest you take the car to a radiator workshop and have the whole system completely flushed that way you know personally its done correctly. You can always just do a coolant change and hope there is no blockages in the radiator/cooling system but that is risking an engine if it becomes blocked and overheats.
Friday, June 08, 2007 - 11:20 pm, by: Leo Croker(Leonardomonkey)
I dont have the money to get it done by a shop, i am worried that since i bought it at the end of last summer, that it wont handle the heat well this year. i looked at the tut for flushing the rad think it may be worth a shot. thank you though
Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 12:05 am, by: Matt Smith(15_psi)
I would drain it all out and give it a bit of a flush and go and buy some radiator flush from your local car shop. It comes in a little bottle and you just pour it into your radiator with water and drive it for like a week or two and then drain and flush again and fill it with coolant.
Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 07:58 am, by: Richard Loring(Richzx)
Leo if you don't have the money to get your radiator rodded then how are you going to pay for a new motor if that one gets cooked? Get it rodded, it's not expensive and you should be able to pull the radiator out and put it back in yourself. Doing it properly will save you money in the long run and if its not blocked then its something you know will hold up in summer.
Monday, June 11, 2007 - 05:54 pm, by: Leo Croker(Leonardomonkey)
ok flushed out the system in fact took the whole water system out and cleaned the piped found a few almost complete blockages in some of the smaller pipes but just arrived into work this morning popped the hood and found the main feed pipe from the rad to the engine has started to melt from the heat!!!!!!!! WTF have i done i need a fix and fast, please help
Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:01 pm, by: Leo Croker(Leonardomonkey)
also whine in ect mode i put my foot down to over take and the turbos made a strange spolling noise and i got no power the seem to be working at lower revs AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
Monday, June 11, 2007 - 08:37 pm, by: Richard Loring(Richzx)
Did you take the radiator out or just the pipes? It sounds like your radiator is blocked so it needs to be done professionally you won't be able to rod a radiator yourself. I think you may well have lost all the water if its melting pipes and the turbo's may be squealing because they have run out of water. I can't recommend to you enough to get it checked out by someone you trust who has a sound mechanical knowledge.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 12:03 am, by: Leo Croker(Leonardomonkey)
Just did a quick test that someone else suggested, i ran it with the rad cap of to see if it dropped it went the opposite way and started to trickle over at running temp. BUT the smaller water pipes feeding the turbos and the main feed into the engine all became very hot almost burning my hand, but the return pipe at the bottom of the rad stayed cold does this mean there is a airlock somewhere
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