Friday, October 07, 2005 - 09:11 am, by: Michael Keen(Jzz30man)
As the title suggests, the leak is showing up at the base of the bridging pipe between the water pump and the top hose housing. The pipe between these two locations has 2 rubber o-rings that seal it against the housings, top and bottom.
I noticed I was losing a little water, very slowly, but could not smell coolant. After the engine had cooled a while I had a look at the bridging pipe while simultaneously releasing the radiator cap - then water started to pool at the bottom of the pipe and overflow running down the block. Just a little bit of water. It appears that the water is getting past the o-rings when the pressure is released. Suggesting the pressure is holding the o-ring in a position to seal. Note: I replaced the o-rings with replacements that were for water and looked the same size. I also used Permatex Non-Hardening sealant (black goup) to assist with the seal. Not sure why its now leaking 50,000km later. Maybe Permatex has caused o-ring to break down??
Friday, October 07, 2005 - 09:42 am, by: Troy Tappenden(Moredhel)
Sorry I don't have an answer for you, but I had the same problem when I was changing out my dump pipes, because I had to take that bit out to take the front turbo off. While it was off, the O-rings perished in the dry conditions and leaked. You haven't had the pipe out recently have you? It doesn't have to be out for long. Mine was out for 2 days and they were totally knackered when I put it back together.
Other than that, Sorry, can't help. The O-rings should definitely last longer than that though.
Friday, October 07, 2005 - 08:11 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Michael You mean you didn't replace with OEM Toyota o-rings? My original motor with over 100K used to seep slightly from the o-rings at the bypass pipe - I replaced them before I replaced the water pump! When refitting the bypass pipe, you also need to centre it rather than set it at max position either side as the o-rings remains visible to the eye on the opposite side.
Monday, October 10, 2005 - 09:33 am, by: Michael Keen(Jzz30man)
Manny, Not sure I know precisely what your describing here. Do you mean centre it vertically, so neither o-ring is visible? I have done the replacement, but i'm sure i could still move it around. I couldn't get OEM rubbers when I replaced the water pump, so had to go aftermarket. I used aftermarket again. Are OEM available from Toyota now? What I found was, the rubbers had gone pretty hard in 50,000km, and some dirt and grime must have got into the bottom collar and wore the rubber way a little, leaving some indentations and scores in the rubber. All this causing the bypass pipe to leak slightly when the water pressure was released (ie: rad cap removed, and I assume when cooling down and temperature dropping) I hope the aftermarket ones I installed last more than 50,000km this time.
Monday, October 10, 2005 - 03:30 pm, by: Emanuel Spinola(Manny)
Yep, centre vertically. Personally, I'd never trust a non-OEM o-ring for a critical function. I've bought a few sets (pairs) over the years through Penrith for different engines and my last 2 sets were in January this year - part number 96761-24023 @ $ 3.10 each ex-Toyota. The goo you used also concerns me - there's no instruction to do so in the workshop manual and those parts are designed to move as the different metals expand, otherwise they wouldn't have used double o-rings, just solid points and gaskets.
Tuesday, October 11, 2005 - 09:07 am, by: Michael Keen(Jzz30man)
Manny, I'll get those o-rings next time, for the other motor anyway. I didn't use the Permatex Aviation black goup this time. I took the advice of the bearing guy and coated them with silicone spray, as I had no silicone grease. That helped them go into place. I'll have a look and feel to see of its centred vertically. Thanks for the tips. Handy for others to know that non-OEM O-Rings don't sound like a good idea. The OEM ones I removed initially were still soft after 90,000km, while these aftermarket ones that are supposed to be OK in heat went almost rock hard after 50,000km. So there is a good recommendation for everybody to use OEM O-Rings.
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