Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:47 pm, by: Grant Rowan(Booster13psi)
I am doing a 100k service on my jzz30 tt soarer. I need to remove the 22mm engine crank nut. I have tried using the stater motor with a breaker bar & a super cheap air impact wrench, but still no luck. I have sprayed it with penetrant and waited 4hrs and still no joy. If anyone has any suggestions that would be great.
Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 07:36 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
1 way is to remove the starter motor and install something like a crowbar to help lock it.
Dodgy way ( not recommended but it does work and have seen it done).. Drill some holes in the bottom of the bellhousing big enough to fit a pry bar or screwdriver in. Make sure you allign the holes up with the flywheel. Then you can use something to try and hold the flywheel while you try and crack the bolt.
Otherwise, Use the Pipe you have and try hitting it with a mallet of some sort. Its the Impact that will crack it. ( forgot to mention, Yavuz used a sledgehammer to crack it with that pipe i mentioned above).
I would try the last option before resorting to the other ones mate! Good luck
Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 08:53 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
get some angle iron drill 2 holes at one end about 3 inchs apart fit 2 3inch bolts they will fit in the crank pulley the other end rests on the floor ....engine locked ....DR
Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 09:04 pm, by: Rainer Fritzsche(Ryner)
I had to heat mine up with the oxy torch before it would crack..... Then a couple of go's on the starter motor with the breaker bar secured and it finally let go. Good luck !
Monday, February 11, 2008 - 10:13 pm, by: Raymond Bardrick(Mondy83)
I used a a broken piece of handle from a 3 foot breaker bar and made a bracket with 2 bolts in it and a half circle to put the socket through.. If i can find it i can take some photo's
Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 07:04 pm, by: David Ormsby(Phoenix)
Try removing all the spark plugs then using the power bar/starter motor method. That way all the starter power is used to turn the engine. This has worked for me on 2 JZ crank bolts that otherwise wouldn't budge with just the starter motor, oh and make sure you use 1/2" drive sockets...
Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 10:34 pm, by: Grant Rowan(Booster13psi)
I tried removing the spark plugs and it definitely makes a difference. You can feel that the starter motor has more impact. But nonetheless it did not help.
I popped into my mechanic for some tips on getting this bolt off. He lent me a steel bar with a 10cm bar attached at one end which sits at a 45 degree angle and it has a 1/2 socket on the end. I gave it a belt with a 3lb hammer but no luck. He then lent me a large rattle gun, but still no joy. I think it could be that I only have a 2.5hp compressor @ 80psi. Nonetheless I thought it was quite trusting of him to lend me his tools.
He suggested I bring the car in and he will put some heat on it. Loosen it up and re- tighten it gently and I can be on my way. I have just about got the car back together and it’s off to the mechanic tomorrow. Hopefully there is enough charge left in the battery after 50+ attempts at cracking the nut.
I was wondering if I can get away with leaving the clutch fan off. The drive to the mechanic's is approx 4km?
Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 05:44 pm, by: Grant Rowan(Booster13psi)
*Update*
The bolt is finally off!
I took the car down to my mechanic. He tried 3 different rattle guns on the thing and no luck. He then borrowed a 3/4 inch rattle gun from North Side Auto Trans. This thing was an absolute animal!
It still took 5-6 goes and she finally spun free.
I can't believe what a drama this has been. I am so glad the bastard is off!
Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 07:30 pm, by: Justin Cook(Justin)
Nearly had as much fun getting mine off the 2J, except this is out of the car. So wedged in a pipe in the bit where the starter goes. Bought an expensive 3/4 set with a good breaker bar. Put 80cm of pipe on it. Then with Dad helping me balance (plus a hand on the house). 80kg of me bouncing up and down on the pipe. Finally cracked, and I didn't fall off...was a miracle!
Still must have been 100-120kg of pressure in the end...bent the CRAP out of the flex plate! Lucky I have to use my 1J one!
Friday, February 15, 2008 - 07:48 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
They are torqued to close to 300N/M from the factory - thats about 80kg's at 1 meter - then they thread lock as the years go by which must add quite a bit of extra breaking torque to overcome friction - thats why its so random as to how tough they are to crack.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 02:03 pm, by: Braden Murdoch(Ribfeast)
Just use a Powerbar hand impact wrench, and a sledge. Worked like a charm on my 1JZ, we had it off in under 5 minutes. You can buy one for just over $100. Much more powerful than a rattlegun.