Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 06:52 am, by: Cameron Laufer(Ivboost)
Spend alittle bit of money and get an oil sample analysied, when you get it done tell them how many km's the oil has been in the engine for, and they will be able to tell you if there is excess metal in your oil and what kind of metal it is. It's not a big cost for piece of mind. Thats my 2c Cam
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 12:22 pm, by: Steven Clements(Steven087)
if you properly spun a bearing there would be a constant knocking sound especially through out the rev range, ive learnt this from my drift car haha my motor still performs well as well Chris so its hard to say if its anything to be worried about, its just a little concerninng hearing this knocking on startup. Im going to do an oil change and see if it helps at all
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 02:52 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Miles Baker wrote on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 12:16 am:
$6700 for a rebuild?
A standard rebuild for 1JZ or 2JZ includes; - Reconditioned head with new guides, stem seals and new valves if required, 3 angle valve seat job on intake and exhaust, new valve springs, cylinder chamber deburr, new OEM metal head gasket and seals (cam seals, cam cover gasket etc), assembled with ARP high tensile head bolts. Bottom end assembled with factory rods and pistons balanced with linished crank, ARP rod bolts, oversized ACL Race bearings and new piston rings. Also includes new oil pump and seal, new water pump, timing belt, timing tensioner, thermostat, pulleys and spark plugs.
Roughly $1300 is devoted to the machine shop for bottom end (machining, balancing, honing) and head work (multi angle 24 valve job, skim, shims, cam cleaning and head journals) the rest is for quality parts, skilled labor and $650 GST.
Thats not really a standard rebuild, the head will flow around %15 better on both the intake and exhaust.
As stated, the only thing missing here is forgies and h beam rods to hold 500rwkw. Thats between $900-2000 for pistons plus between $800-2000 for your choice of rods.
We're lucky.. Do you know how much work an RB26 needs to support 400rwkw? Around $14,000 for a similar long motor. Anyone that says they can do it for less is skimping out on the $1300 oil pump and million other things that need to be changed. No, a $13,000 N1 long motor wont cut it!
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 04:35 pm, by: Miles Baker(Milesb)
Jesus!
Prices on rebuilding the old stuff are so much lower. About $400 a head to reco, or just turf them and get new complete heads for $500 each. All new bearings, gaskets, seals, rings, slugs, plugs, pumps, chain, cam and lifters for a grand. Block dipped, tested and honed, brand new crank, $700. Or replace with brand spankers forged and balanced crank for a couple hundred extra. Assembly $500. All up $3500, and that's not an el cheapo either. Add $750 for 8 forged rods and balancing work. Good for forced induction to 600hp.
Or for the milder alternative, $2300 for a brand new 4 bolt main motor. Swap the cam for $100 before you put it in and it makes about 230kw at the crank.
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 04:52 pm, by: Mustafa Akgul(Muzzy)
so far the only thing I have is some oil consumption like half a litre a week it does blow some blackish blue smoke on full boost. other than that it starts first time every time.
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 05:07 pm, by: Steven Clements(Steven087)
ok well im now sure its a bottom end bearing noise, it knocks when revving in idle and when driving any idea how long this may drive for if babied till it dies? this really does suck i bought a 1JZ cause i thought i would escape the bottom end bearing problems of the CA and SR20 and its completely stock so coudlnt have taken anywhere as near a beating as my old drift cars
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 05:11 pm, by: Cihan Aday(Cihan)
Miles, the owner of the machine shop said the same thing. Things are a lot dearer for Jap engines. 24 valves that are 30 odd mm in diameter demand at least double the time a 16 v eight needs so the price is double (or close to). A 2J crank is way way to expensive from toyota to be replacing each rebuild
Cams cost us 880 from the US, or 1300 from Jap land.
I've used two different machine shops building my 2J. The first guy charged $110 to change stem seals and guides then pressure test. Got the head back and i wasn't happy. Sent if off to our regular guy (when he got back from holiday) and he couldn't stop laughing. We vacc tested it and it was up by varying amounts on 5 intake valves. On pulling the valves, i discover that the seats are in bad condition and that one of the valve stem seals aren't bloody on properly.. The company "All Heads" are probably better at giving it than reconditioning them.
I got Don to do the head from scratch and everything is perfect. Every seat is cut, every valve is cut, all components are weighed and assembled. It now holds complete vacuum in every port so it'll make maximum power and not smoke like a chimney and explode. Money well spent.
Mustafa Akgul wrote on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 03:22 pm:
I also get that Knocking clankity noise for about 3 seconds on start up.
On that note, so does my 1J.
Its made the same clacking noise for 4 years and about 55,000kms now, still pushed 290rwkw and went sideways 2nd gear at 80kph
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 06:34 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
Well, I guess when you spend about $7000 on a motor that can handle up to including 700-800hp isnt too bad.. That will act as a nice daily, get good mileage and possibly run 10's down the 1/4 without missing a beat with all the creature comforts.. It aint too bad. With 2 Cams instead of 1, 24 valves and ports instead of 16, Way more expensive timing gear ( Belt tensioner, 2 cams, 2 cam gears ).
SPecially if it lasts 15 years and 200,000kms. Wouldnt be bad at all
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 10:47 pm, by: Anthony Butler(Butts)
hmmmm I only really have this noise on cold start up and it doesn't last for very long? Does anyone recommend anywhere to get this checked out in South Australia?
Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 06:55 am, by: Michael Keen(Spoilt)
Cihan Aday wrote on Wednesday, March 05, 2008 - 05:13 pm:
Steven, don't rev it much. It will put a rod through the block in no time.
Get a mechanic to confirm its a bearing though
if you do suspect it is a bearing noise, disconnect the coil's one at a time, so do number 1, if noise goes away it number one etc for all 6 and you will find it. cheers all it does it stop's loading up that cylinder/rod and takes the pressure of the bearing hence why the noist goes away cheers
Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 08:52 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
Anthony, call Steve Kramp at Manta Automotive at Richmond. He probably won't be able to do it for a couple of weeks though, as he is unusually busy right now - I was talking with him last night.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 02:24 pm, by: Todd Williams(Jza70_r)
i know and have the exact same problem hes talking about. im sure a lot of 1JZ do it.
Its a oil pressure issue which i though was due to running too thick oil. oil cant make it to where it counts quick enough on cold starts and hence the knocking noise. dont know if its the valve train or the block but either way its a nasty noise i hated. I switched to a 5w30 synth which helped the problem but it was still there.
with my powerfc i removed all fuel on cranking so i could turn the motor over for as long as i like until i tap the accelerator which then it fires into life, silent and smooth because ive given it a change to swing some oil around the motor.
obviously this would be hard to do with a stock ecu without a fuel kill switch...
Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 07:56 pm, by: Steven Clements(Steven087)
its def a big end bearing motor is knocking constantly now not just at startup im pissed to say the least what happened to the almighty 1jz!! i mean how hard could it have been thrashed its an auto replacement motor now on the cards
Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 08:45 pm, by: Daniel Clarke(Dieseltrain)
full throttle and boost in an auto or manual is irrelevant... RPM + boost + power = worn out.. OR badly looked after. IE irregular oil changes and such?
Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 01:02 am, by: Suphachai Sangasri(Suphajzz30)
hi guys if the car drive ok and boosting , it could be the harmonic balancer slowly riping it self apart as the unit is made from two part holding together by layer of strong rubber. as it gets old it will start to knock on the engine block as engine rotates, and sometime this will go away then back on knocking. soon you could find the belt hanging by the fan and the dash warning info bitching there's no charge from alternator. well this sorted my knocking noise!!! after i replace harmonic balancer!
Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 01:17 am, by: Chris Prak(Carizma)
My Toyota mechanic has diagnosed it as the cam lobes. They need re-adjustment after periods of time. The settings are on the same sticker on the bonnet as your fan belt picture.
The 0.2mm-0.3mm (can't remember, its in japanese) one is what you tighten it to, though he recommends only a specialist to do it, as it's quite a tedious/careful job taking quite a long time.
Previous
